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FJ60 waterpump question

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by FJ60, Sep 17, 2003.

  1. FJ60

    FJ60

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    My 87 FJ60 had a nice puddle of water under it after lunch and now the constant drip from the front of the motor has me thinking its waterpump time. CAN I actually use some JB weld to seal the weep hole and drive it till I get my parts or do I need to just park it???


    Also: best place to get a replacement?
     
  2. cruiserman

    cruiserman

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    If it's just weeping, I would drive it as necessary, but you should verify it's the water pump. Any overheating? Maybe a hose is leaking. I usually go OEM, but I believe NAPA carries one.
     
  3. FJ60

    FJ60

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    no water anywhere except on the ground, I have replaced EVERYTHING except the pump in this cooling system in the last year (Radiator, hoses, fan clutch, cap, belts). All these thing have helped cooling but it still seemed to run a little warmer that it should have been.

    not a drip until today and after 1.5 hours in the parking lot the puddle is truck sized.
     
  4. cruiserman

    cruiserman

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    Truck sized??? That's a crap load of water. Better get it fixed pronto.
     
  5. FJ60

    FJ60

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    I put 12 bottles of stop leak in, that should fix anything!



    KIDDING!!!!


    I just went home and swapped it for my FJ40 (poor pitiful me) I topped off the radiator before I left and it only took about 1/2 gallon but I'm not going to push my luck driving it daily till its fixed.
     
  6. Bo87cruiser

    Bo87cruiser

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    I also have a 1987 FJ 60 with 203,000. I went through the same process as you did and replaced the rad, thermostat, hoses, etc. After all of this I thought my cooling woes were fixed. The week after I installed the new radiator the water pump locked up without warning. I got one from Advanced Auto (not a huge fan of non-OEM parts) that had a lifetime warranty and cost me about $100, so I figured it was allright. Got the pump on and refilled with Toyota red anti-freeze. At around the same it begin to notice some excessive engine twist and found that the driver's side motor mount was busted (common on the 60 series). I now believe that this bad mount was the culprit of the cooling problems by putting strain on other components(ie radiator neck and inlet, water pmp). With the new mnts and entire coolind sys the 60 seems to be doing great. I would definately check out the mounts as soon as you get that waterfall plugged. 8) I hope this helps.

    One a side note. Are you a member of Deep South Cruisers? I live in B'ham and just recently dicovered the club. I have since spoken with Hal Hall via email and am planning to join and look foward to meeting all of you.

    Bo
    87 FJ 60, 92 FJ 80
     
  7. informationjunky

    informationjunky

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    You could go with SOR ;)

    However your best bet is OEM from dealer in TT ( I paid less than $100 ). While your at it, I would suggest calling Robert at Heart of Texas Off Road and getting a new fan clutch ( I think he sells them for about $50) You might also want to check his price on pump (note, he stands behind his products and doesn't gouge you on shipping and handling - I've bought parts from almost every vendor and he and Jay Marks have been the best IMHO) .

    Of course if you bought your radiator from the guy who doesn't stand behind his products and is notorously late, it is probably leaking around the caps. Loosen your belts and see if pump is hard to turn or if you can wiggle the shaft.
     
  8. Man Jerk

    Man Jerk

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    For better or for worse, I got a rebuilt unit.

    If you happen to go this route, I've got a warning...
    Bring the fan in with you when you pick it up. When I 1st tried to put mine in, once everything was installed I was trying to get the fan over the water pump shaft, and it wouldn't fit. the shaft ended up being Too big. This was outside in the winter in MN by the way, so it was cold. I had to tear everything down again, then tear the guy at the parts store a new A$$. Cold makes people angry....
     
  9. FJ60

    FJ60

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    Bo, not Deep South the club - but I have talked with Hal and he has been a helluva nice guy and sends me the club newsletter even though I haven't joined yet. I WISH there was a active Birminham based club so I could attend meetings and drool over Cruisers but none to date.

    I ordered my pump from SOR and got a OEM unit for less than $100 so while I was on the phone I got some needed goodies for my FJ40, I've been driving it daily and I'm actually having a pretty good time considering I have a broken truck.

    As I said, all other components have been replaced including a OEM fan clutch and radiator cap. and it has not overheated but still ran warmer that I thought it should. I have other symptoms of the broken motor mount (jumping out of 4-LO) but my mechanic swears the mounts are fine so its time to get out the jack and check for myself. How hard was fixing the motor mount???
     
  10. informationjunky

    informationjunky

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    Make sure you "burp the system" 60 are bad about air bubles. Mine runs about 1/2 in HOTlanta with OEM pump, heavy duty oem fan clutch (sits about 1" closer to radiator) and after market radiator on 3rd repair in 2 years.

    As for 4 low poping out, check the adjustments of the linkage as outlined in factory manual. If they are ok, the motor mount nearest the PS pump is typically the culprit.
     
  11. informationjunky

    informationjunky

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    Did Hal Hall grow up in Athens Al by any chance?
     
  12. Bo87cruiser

    Bo87cruiser

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    Deep South Cruiser, My cooling problems were almost identical to yours. After changing all of the cooling sys. the temp. would run a little higher, but never close to over heating. It was driving me crazy until the water pump obviously came to a SCREACHING halt. My theory is that the bad driver's side mount was causing the bearings in the pump to slowly wear out, thus causing the inefficient cooling and abnormal coolant temp. After removing the pump it was clear that this was the case. As for the popping out of 4lo I also had the same problem. It makes perfect sense to me that the torque in 4lo with bad mounts would cause the transfer to move enuff to knock it out. Just looking at the mount I couldn't tell that the mount was bad(even with the engine jacked up), so I got a buddy to watch the motor while I gave the cruiser gas with my foot on the brake. Normally a bad mount will cause the motor to twist more than normal. I still was unsure if the mount was bad. So I just broke down and called JT Outfitters and $60 later I had 2 new motor mounts. The process was a real PITA. Be sure to have a good floor jack and alot of patience. A good set of racheting box end wrenches will help you keep your sanity as the top nuts are a pain. In the end it took some creative jacking to get the new mounts in.(driver side is definately the worst) Its a :banana: job, but can be aggravating. I have not had a chance to check 4lo as I am now installing new clutch. Sorry for the long post, I hope it helps. If your still in the area I'd be willing to lend a hand.--A TRUE Cruiser club in the 'HAM would be great.
     
  13. sandcruiser

    sandcruiser

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    When jacking up the motor, remember to use a wooden block to distribute the force across the oilpan, otherwise you've got a good chance of denting it, which is bad.
     
  14. Landpimp

    Landpimp GOLD Star

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    the fan clutch that Liquid sells is not a 2f or 3fe FC, its from a dsl cruiser and has not been working correct in the 62's I know its been used in.....

    YOu can save a few bucks by ordering the waterpump and fan clutch combo from the dealer, they have one part # for the pair. or buy seperate.