FJ60 valve adjustment (3 Viewers)

[BigIronPilot]

Cool thanks I'll try some of these ideas tonight or tomorrow and upload the results. My buddy said exhaust leak could be it as well. I'm the third owner. I don't think the first two took much care to it. The second owner had for three years and never replaced anything but oil and a catalytic converter when I made them have it pass CA smog. The good thing is it passed smog with flying colors.

 

[BigIronPilot]

For reference, the link below has audio of a idling 2F that was running well. Wear headphones if you have them to listen. The microphone on this camera is pretty sucky, so the engine sounds are not all that accurate... but it provides a reference.

This engine was set to fast idle at about 800 RPM for this vid, and all the valves are a little loose. You can hear them clicking a bit. There is no exhaust leak (on this day..) You can also hear the wind noise from the fan, and noise from the old belts and the alternator. There is also the clanky 2F noise this engine has had since the day it was new.
This engine had/has 280,000 miles on it and has sounded like this (as much as I can remember) for 27 years.
If the valves were tightened up a smidgen, it would be a bit quieter. If the engine was hotter it would be a little quieter.
Other guys' 2Fs I've heard are a little quieter (maybe cuz of tighter valve lash) but this one has always sounded like this when the valves are set .001" looser. Engine runs great.

AUDIO LINK

That's a clean engine nice!

 

[BigIronPilot]

That's pretty clean dang

 

[Output Shaft]

It used to look like this not too long ago. ↓
Then it went to rehab at PMPA (Powdercoating & Metal Plating Annonymous)

 

[BigIronPilot]

made the changes tonight, no luck sounds the same. what about this....

 

[Output Shaft]

Those instructions were wrong.

If you want to check the valve clearance while the engine is running...
Follow the instructions in the manual page above but....

• Check the valve clearance while the engine is idling.
Then
• STOP THE ENGINE to adjust the valves.
• Then turn it back on to check them again. It can take a couple tries.

 

[BigIronPilot]

so heres what it sounds like now. I think it's an exhaust link cause I adjusted the hell out of those things. 4 nights worth of adjustments. Anyways, put some high temp paint on the valve cover and air cover, nice little red. If I have an exhaust leak what kind of work am I looking at? Is it hazardous to the truck?

 

[BigIronPilot]

I have another question. This noise is what happens when I have the clutch out and car in neutral. I've read it could be input bearing or throw out bad?

 

[txnight]

When the clutch is engaged(pedal up) the throw out bearing sits in the clutch fork which is stationary and slightly rests against the fingers of the pressure platewhich is rotating and can present an audibale noise in a defective bearing.

 

[BigIronPilot]

When the clutch is engaged(pedal up) the throw out bearing sits in the clutch fork which is stationary and slightly rests against the fingers of the pressure platewhich is rotating and can present an audibale noise in a defective bearing.

How hard is that to fix? I assume I would have to pull the tranny to get to it? I'm not sure I can tackle that type of repair in my garage. I assume that's about a $500 repair at the shop? If I'm in there I should probably just put in a new clutch kit? I was hoping it was the ash tray vibrating

 

[Output Shaft]

Post #47 (first one)
That loud snapping sound is an exhaust leak. An exhaust leak doesn't hurt anything but your ears... but you don't want to drive around like that. The exhaust manifold gasket or the EGR J-pipe gasket are the usual suspects.

Manifold gasket


EGR J-pipe gasket




Replacing the EGR J-pipe gasket is pretty easy. Might as well try that first. Otherwise the manifold has to come off to replace the manifold gasket. If you've never done it before, you can get it off in a day.... A few other things have to come off first before the manifold can come off. Everyone who has done it, had to do it for the first time ... sometime. So might as well join the club.

-----------------

Transmission Noise:

First make sure that the transmission (and transfer case while you are at it) is full of oil-
If you don't know the last time it was changed and it is black, change it.

When the clutch pedal is out and the tranny is in neutral, everything inside the transmission is spinning around. What you may be hearing is transmission bearing noise (aka worn bearing noise).

If you press in the clutch and the noise goes away, then the sound is transmission bearing noise.

Drive it over to any transmission shop and have them listen to it. They'll tell you what they think it is.. and it won't cost you anything.

 

[BigIronPilot]

Post #47 (first one)
That loud snapping sound is an exhaust leak. An exhaust leak doesn't hurt anything but your ears... but you don't want to drive around like that. The exhaust manifold gasket or the EGR J-pipe gasket are the usual suspects.

Manifold gasket
View attachment 1077563

EGR J-pipe gasket

View attachment 1077564


Replacing the EGR J-pipe gasket is pretty easy. Might as well try that first. Otherwise the manifold has to come off to replace the manifold gasket. If you've never done it before, you can get it off in a day.... A few other things have to come off first before the manifold can come off. Everyone who has done it, had to do it for the first time ... sometime. So might as well join the club.

-----------------

Transmission Noise:

First make sure that the transmission (and transfer case while you are at it) is full of oil-
If you don't know the last time it was changed and it is black, change it.

When the clutch pedal is out and the tranny is in neutral, everything inside the transmission is spinning around. What you may be hearing is transmission bearing noise (aka worn bearing noise).

If you press in the clutch and the noise goes away, then the sound is transmission bearing noise.

Drive it over to any transmission shop and have them listen to it. They'll tell you what they think it is.. and it won't cost you anything.

Sweet thanks. I just replaced the differentials, transfer and tranny fluids last weekend. I guess I'm in for some gasket changes for the exhaust leak I'll take it over to a tranny place. Thanks appreciate the help, much appreciated.

 

[cps432]

So I have pulled my valve cover off to replace the gasket that was rock hard and broken in several places. I've noticed that the gaskets around the 4 bolts are also hard and likely not able to create a decent seal. The one in the rear has actually cracked. Any idea what I can do about this in a pinch? I'm also looking for the torque specs for those 4 bolts. Any help would be awesome! Thanks!

 

[brian]

talk to your local dealer?

 

[cps432]

talk to your local dealer?

I did just that! Apparently they're special order or they might still be used by Lexus. They're sending two different brands to the store in the morning. We'll see then if they match up.

 

[brian]

sor can probably get them to you in a day or two with priority mail. i've got small stuff from them in a few days recently like that....and im farther from them than you.

 

[cps432]

If the ones the shop is getting don't work, I'll definitely hit up SOR. I have a bunch of other things I need to order from them anyway. Knuckles.... Clutch... Things inside there that I'm not aware of yet...

 

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

Beno can get them.

 

[gregnash]

Yup they are still available. Don't have the part number as they came with my full engine gasket kit that he sold me at the beginning of the year. Definitely something that you should replace though.

 

[fezkey]

I believe they are part #90210-13001 for about $3 a piece.