FJ60 Power Steering Conversion for FJ40 while keeping air pump (1 Viewer)

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Yep, it's a tad over $100 to ship a 70 series drag link tube. Ask me how I know...:rolleyes:

At the moment, I'm a hair away from actually hooking it up with pictures to show that it works:
Brahma's Saginaw/FJ60 Power Steering Conversion - Rising Sun Member Forums

And it's another $90 for a 70 series drag link end. And another $65 (special price) for the FJ40 tie rod end. Kinda expensive to do this, but it's a labor of love right? :hillbilly:
 
Yep, it's a tad over $100 to ship a 70 series drag link tube. Ask me how I know...:rolleyes:

At the moment, I'm a hair away from actually hooking it up with pictures to show that it works:
Brahma's Saginaw/FJ60 Power Steering Conversion - Rising Sun Member Forums

And it's another $90 for a 70 series drag link end. And another $65 (special price) for the FJ40 tie rod end. Kinda expensive to do this, but it's a labor of love right? :hillbilly:

Good thread Matt!!!

Is the 70 series tube $100, or the shipping? Or both?

Can you throw up a pic showing a measurement?
 
I've got good news/bad news on the Series 70 drag link.

I talked with 70sguy, a Mud vendor in Canada who specializes in 70's (and a nice guy, too). The zerk-to-zerk length of a Series 70 drag link is 38 1/8," just 1/4" longer than TJ's measurements, so it could easily fit. The bad news is that he would have to charge at least $50 for a used drag link, and shipping from Canada would almost double that cost. If you really want to go all Toyota, a 70 drag link will work, but it will be much cheaper to have Front Range make you a custom rod that's probably stronger.

As for me, the SBC sitting under my hood makes "all Toyota" linkage kind of pointless. . .

Thanks belaw.

I still owe you a pic of my 60 series relay rod modified for Pig...
 
Good thread Matt!!!

Is the 70 series tube $100, or the shipping? Or both?

Can you throw up a pic showing a measurement?

I was able to get a used 70 series drag link tube, shipped for about $110 USD from 4Wheel Parts in Canada. I called them up again and got the end that connects to the pitman arm for $125 USD, shipped. If I lived or had connections in Canada I would have had someone go to a parts yard and pull the whole thing for maybe 1/4 of that price.

From the stud to the threads it's 4 3/4", from the stud to the end of the threads it's 7 1/2", so there is 2 3/4" of threads on it. I haven't fit it up yet (just got it late last night) but I'm thinking both drag link ends will have to be threaded in almost all the way, and I still might need a 1/4" spacer plate or so to push the steering box away from the frame in order to get it to be the right distance so it lines up correctly.

EDIT: measured it again and posted up the actual lengths...
 
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haha - if you think YOU have pricing problems, try being in New Zealand where we have fewer of these things (FJ40's) going around to steal parts from AND we're tucked away in a bottom corner of the Earth with ridiculous freight costs! :rolleyes:

Oh yes, sometimes it really does feel like the planet is flat! :p

/End of rant :)
 
Yep, it's a tad over $100 to ship a 70 series drag link tube. Ask me how I know...:rolleyes:

At the moment, I'm a hair away from actually hooking it up with pictures to show that it works:
Brahma's Saginaw/FJ60 Power Steering Conversion - Rising Sun Member Forums

And it's another $90 for a 70 series drag link end. And another $65 (special price) for the FJ40 tie rod end. Kinda expensive to do this, but it's a labor of love right? :hillbilly:

Reading Matt's thread makes me think about my relay rod/drag link and maybe going to new rod and either a 40 series TRE at the PS end or a 60 series relay rod end.

I think I need to replace my rod ends (all) as I have a very intermittant shimmy in the wheel.

How would I go about selecting the tapered reamer that I need to modify my 40 series TRE to accept a 60 series relay rod end?

I found a bunch of tapered reamers here: eBay Store - XKUT: BALL JOINT TIE ROD REAMERS, TIE ROD END TAPS, TOYOTA CONICAL WASHER REAMERS
 
talk to Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters. He might know the correct taper angle, or be able to find out. Or Lance at IPOR might know. I know there's a difference in diameters, but not sure if there's a difference in taper angle.

TJ - I would look into getting a custom rod made and see how much it would cost. How's your steering damper? I would think that that should take out small shimmy's from the wheels?
 
Thanks Matt

I am not running a damper. I took it off when we did the PS install and never needed it after that. I would rather fix what is causing this shimmy than mask it with a damper.

I'll chat up Kurt as I think that is where I will source my TRE's

Custom rod is $60 from Front Range Off Road.
 
most vehicles have a steering damper from the factory, so I wouldn't say it really is used for a mask. To me it's a safety thing; it reduces odd shimmies that turn into harmonic shimmies that result in death wobble...

but I agree with you that if you feel something you didn't have before, it needs to be fixed. But after you fix your TRE's, I would look into installing a steering damper too.

But that's just me.
 
Next, we mounted the u-joint on the column from the 60 that used to go from steering wheel to firewall.

The splines DID match, and that sure was convenient!

TJ:

Quick question on the 60 steering column shaft you used as an intermediate shaft- is that a sliding 2-piece shaft, or is it solid?

Brian
 
TJ:

Quick question on the 60 steering column shaft you used as an intermediate shaft- is that a sliding 2-piece shaft, or is it solid?

Brian

Sliding two-piece...

Read Matt's description here: Rising Sun Member Forums - View Single Post - Brahma's Saginaw/FJ60 Power Steering Conversion

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most vehicles have a steering damper from the factory, so I wouldn't say it really is used for a mask. To me it's a safety thing; it reduces odd shimmies that turn into harmonic shimmies that result in death wobble...

but I agree with you that if you feel something you didn't have before, it needs to be fixed. But after you fix your TRE's, I would look into installing a steering damper too.

But that's just me.

Also, now that I think about it, the Pig does not have a steering damper either.

No shimmies...
 

TJ:

Thanks for the information and the link to Matt's write-up; I'm printing it out now for a little evening reading.

After reading and talking about this conversion for months I'm about ready to finally do it... as soon as I finish working out the little details.

Right now I'm trying to workout the box placement. I want to keep the relay rod (drag link?) as close to parallel with the tie rod as I can, on both a horizontal and vertical plane, but now realize that I'm going to have to push the pitman arm end of the relay rod further forward and away from the tie rod so that I can have enough room to move the shock tower back without cutting into the fender mounting rib. I hope this makes sense. Can you give me some reference point of how far forward you placed your box? Looking at your pictures it seems that the small end of the pitman arm is almost perfectly centered under the large round hole in the frame- is that about right?
 
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belaw,

I responded to your thread on the Rising Sun forum. I also saw this thread and checked out my 40 this morning. If you were to have the small end of the pitman arm almost perfectly centered under the large round hole in the frame that would be about right to keep from cutting the fender support. Maybe even a touch forward from that, if you can manage to do that with your intermediate shaft. Or since you're going with a smaller u-joint then maybe it won't even be an issue. But if I were to do it again that is where I would shoot for. The drag link is still pretty parallel with the tie rod at that point.

Hope that helps
 
I think I need to replace my rod ends (all) as I have a very intermittent shimmy in the wheel.

Driving the 40 yesterday, I had a little bit of shimmy and I suddenly realized I have not checked my shackle bolts lately. I checked them and they were a little loose...

Belaw - are you set with box placement?
 
Next, we mounted the u-joint on the column from the 60 that used to go from steering wheel to firewall.

The splines DID match, and that sure was convenient!

kind of confused buy this. you took the actual steering column out of the 60 and mated it to the intermediate shaft??

please explain more in detail
 
kind of confused buy this. you took the actual steering column out of the 60 and mated it to the intermediate shaft??

please explain more in detail

I am happy to explain girraffe!

We took a steering column out of a 60 (the piece that went from steering wheel to the firewall in a 60) and made that the intermediate shaft! So the 60 piece is now going from the steering box to the firewall.

I took the steering column from a 55 and replaced the column from my 40 with it.

So at my firewall, the 55 column connects with a 60 column acting as intermediate shaft. :steer:

Does that help?

:cheers:
 
definitely helps. just one more question does it matter what year fj60 you get the steering column out of? what year was yours froms?
 

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