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FJ60 1 ton axle swap

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by gkhal1, Jul 14, 2003.

  1. gkhal1

    gkhal1

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    Been really considering doing an axle swap to my SO fj62, h55f/splitcase. Up front, I am leaning towards pre-88 chevy D60. I could get a HD D44 for much cheaper, what do you think, D44 or D60 or stock w/ maybe some longfields??

    Out back, I am looking at D60 or Ford 14B.

    I know the rear axles are centered while the splitcase has a pass. side drop. I plan on running a CV in the rear dshaft. Will this work without vibrations (espectially at higher speeds)? This rig is my 'toy', so it is for the trail but sees long highway trips on the way running 60-70MPH.

    I checked the archives at POR and got some great tech info (I would post at POR, but my account is screwed right now). Anyone been running 1 ton axles under their FJ60 and have some feedback on overall performance, pros/cons? Did you go full width? What wms-wms? Any pics?

    Thanks in advance. :D
     
  2. Overlord

    Overlord

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    Stock cruiser axles w/ longs=D44. What size of tires are/will you (be) running?
     
  3. gkhal1

    gkhal1

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    Actually,
    stock cruiser w/longs = D44 minus about 4-5"... :D

    I'm currently running 4.88 37 SSR on 15x8 stock BS. I am using de-arched OME heavies. MAF SR. Extended rear shackles. I want more strength and stability for the heavy pig cause she'll be loaded down. Plan on driving to Costa Rica.

    Just want some feedback as to driveability as well as technical info/pros/cons.
     
  4. cruiserrg

    cruiserrg

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    For the front either stick with the Cruiser axle w/longs or go to a D60. I say this because I wouldn't want ball joints on a heavier rig, which the D44 will have BJs. A front D60 would be much stronger than the cruiser axle even with longs, but will cost substantially more. You will get bigger breaks and better turning radius with the D60 also.

    For the rear, you may want to look for a 14bolt or a Dana 60 that is offset some. I have heard of , but can't confirm, that some vans and possibly Full size Heeps Trucks with D60s that are slightly offset to the passenger side. The 14 bolt pinion is also. Strength wise the 14 bolt is stronger (axles) as a D60(unless 35spline, most are 30)

    No experience driveability with a 60 series with 1 ton gear, but if you are loading up, full floater and stronger front would be my priorities.
     
  5. gkhal1

    gkhal1

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    Thanks for the feedback :D

    I just got a front D60 out of a 79 chevy dually(35 spline 1.5 inner and 30 spline 1.3 outers with 4.56 77" WM-WM w/ the dually hubs, 69" w/single hubs) and a rear D70 (35 spline with 4.10 72" WM-WM).

    What do you think about this high-level plan of attack?
    Narrow the front driver side 4.5" to utilize Landcruiser spring location and WM-WM of 64.5" (seems to be the consensus). Shorten driver side axle shaft.

    Since the rear is pass. side drop from the split case AND the D70 is so long (72", I only need about 64-65") and centered, I could narrow the pass. side a few inches to try to create some pass. offset. Shorten pass. side axle shaft.

    Any thoughts on this....
     
  6. cruzer

    cruzer

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    sounds like a plan to me.

    You should be able to compromise between full offset and centered and be OK. The drive shaft doesn't care which direction it is angled at as long as it is within the U-joint Specs...is that clear like mud?

    Stew
     
  7. gkhal1

    gkhal1

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    Cool!

    That's what I was thinking too...I will do the exact measurements and see how it will look. I will try too document this swap to inform the bros.

    By the way, Jan 1 is the date to head out to Costa Rica. Anybody down?