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First the Knuckle job or OME lift?

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by Riley, Aug 20, 2003.

  1. Riley

    Riley

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    Now that my new 80 has landed, I'm ready to do both a full knuckle job (birfields ect..) and also get some OME springs and shocks and get this rig lifted. It probably makes no difference which order I have this work done but perhaps it would be smarter to do one before the other.

    If it matters both jobs are being performed by different shops.

    Comments are welcomed.
     
  2. Junk

    Junk

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    Do it yourself. First the front end, then reward yourself with the lift. It may take a whole weekend if you're not used to it, but you'll have both done by Monday and be stoked to drive your new beater junk. :D
     
  3. DanKunz

    DanKunz

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    If your knuckles are bleeding, fix them first...

    If you aren't really weeping...lift it. The lift shouldn't impact the knuckles unless you start trailing the truck immediately :D
     
  4. Rogue

    Rogue

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    If you are definately doing both in the near future it really doesn't matter. The knuckle job is by far the more important of the two to help the trucks lifespan. Just be sure that you don't put off the knuckle job for that sweet lift. :D
     
  5. erics_bruisers

    erics_bruisers

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  6. MTNRAT

    MTNRAT

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    The lift is easy to do as well. Actually a relatively simple proceedure. The instuctions that can be downloaded from Chisto's site are exellent. The hardest part was removing the front shocks. I solved this by holding the body of the shock with a pipewrench. When I installed the new shocks I held the body of the shock with a rubber strap wrench, (as advertized on TV) :). An easy afternoon. If you do not have tall heavy jackstands, a bottle jack, and a floor jack, either rent them or buy them with the money you save installing the suspension youself :D. Get the 6 ton jackstands as the cruiser is heavy and the lighter jackstands are not tall enough. Now you have the floor jack and jackstands to do the birfs. :D :D
    Cheers,
    Sean
     
  7. landtank

    landtank SILVER Star

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    If you are going to do both I'd do the knuckles first. Reason: putting off the knuckles has a higher potential of damaging your wallet. Not too much else gets hurt from sagging springs. But let a Birf drop out or grease migrate into the axle and watch the repair bills and time escalate.

    IMHO leaking seals in the axle aren't all that bad. Many companies chose to lubricate their knuckles with diff oil from the diff. The problem for us is when the seals last unusually long and the moly grease brakes down. Now there is no lubrication at all and the birf self distructs.

    Didn't see how many miles are on your truck either. That would also be helpful in getting a better recommendation on how long you can wait.
     
  8. erics_bruisers

    erics_bruisers

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    Good stuff -- thanks, Sean!

    Do you have any tire recommendation for the 851/860 kit?

    eric
     
  9. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Ben,

    >> If you are going to do both I'd do the knuckles first. <<
    >> Reason: putting off the knuckles has a higher potential <<
    >> of damaging your wallet. <<

    I can recall 5 or 6 list members that have not followed this advice and were faced with very expensive repairs.

    Always make certain your truck is in top mechanical condition before you start putting money into the accessories. The front axle service is often overlooked or postponed because it is expensive to have it done by a mechanic. The job is not difficult but it is time consuming. The parts are not expensive, especially if you go through a dealer that offers mudders a discount. I know you're in Canada but check with C-Dan to see if he can ship up there. The mudder (aka "smart shopper") prices are very competitive and the service/knowledge is outstanding.

    In summary, do *all* necessary maintenance and repairs on your new truck, then start buying the goodies. :)

    -B-
     
  10. MTNRAT

    MTNRAT

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    Eric, 285's or 305's for sure. MTR's seem popular and I like mine so far.
    Cheers,
    Sean
     
  11. Photo_Cruiser

    Photo_Cruiser

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    Save some cash and do that lift yourself...Every tool you'll need is cheap, and if you don't have them...you'll need em at some point anyhow. Oh and my 10 cents, when doing those front shocks, just split that damn top bolt and get on with it, especially if your doing the work solo. Also, be REALLY gentle on the rear lower shock mount bolts, break those suckers and your in for some frustration. I'm a mechanical newbi and got the entire lift on, solo, in about 8 hours. I then had a shop press the bushings for the cast. correction stuff. And do like Junk says, use a 2 arm gear puller for the Steering Stabilizer removal. Cake!

    Jeff
     
  12. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    305/70/16'S fill the wheel wells nicely, can be run safely on stock width wheels and are about as big as you can go without rubbing stuff without chassis modifications. They are in a dead heat, height wise, with 285/75/16's and are 20mm wider.
     
  13. Junk

    Junk

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    Eric - get the lift, then ring me up. I'll help you with it and it will be done really quick but right. It does not take long at all. All you need to remember is to keep spraying some PB Blaster on the top shock nuts every day for a week before we do the install. Heck, if you are near the Catskills on Labor Day weekend, swing by and during a break from wheeling we will all attack your truck and get it done real quick.
     
  14. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    "attack"


    Um, Junk, I find that strangely comforting. ::)
     
  15. Hltoppr

    Hltoppr SILVER Star

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    Junk is right. (Did I just say that... ? :-X ) My first OME lift only took me 1.5 hours in the driveway with a floor jack. No caster bushings, though. These lifts are cake!

    Also PB blaster the snot out of the lower rear shock mounts.

    -H-
     
  16. Junk

    Junk

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    [quote author=Hltoppr link=board=2;threadid=4492;start=msg33881#msg33881 date=1061506191]
    Junk is right. (Did I just say that... ? :-X ) [/quote]
    Yes, in fact since I just quoted you, even if you edit it, you're forever fricked :flipoff2:

    No need on the rears. Impact :flipoff2:
     
  17. PHAEDRUS

    PHAEDRUS

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    no response from bernie???
    well If you are daring and in northwestern washington I know a guy who will do the work if you help for Beer? any guesses??? both jobs are relatively easy just time consuming to get it all right. the lift is a real cake walk and the bearings are not that bad with a few good tools. I have said it before and I will say it again if you have any click in the birfs find a cv axle rebuilder and see if they can reman them for you. If you are not brave enough to find one call your local stealer and ask the parts manager who they would use.
    Dave
     
  18. Riley

    Riley

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    [quote author=erics_bruiser link=board=2;threadid=4492;start=msg33718#msg33718 date=1061474031]
    Benie -- you gonna do the lift yourself? What kit are you gonna get? I'm sort of in the same spot -- I'm not sure I could do the job myself though --

    [/quote]

    I'm thinking about getting a small local shop to do the lift. I'm in Canada and have found a local distributor for OME springs. I know I should be doing both of these jobs but I don't have the time and all the tools plus the wife thinks I should spend more time with the family and less playing with my new Toy.

    ::)
     
  19. Riley

    Riley

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    I should also add that I'm only talking about 1 week apart from doing one or the other. But some good advice here in that the birfs could get expensive if there's any problems so to prevent the cash from drying up and the wife leaving I'll do the birfs first. By that time perhaps I'll be brave enough to do the springs myself. I think I can probably get the springs done cheaply if it's that easy.

    I'd consider doing the birfs but I want to make absolutely sure everything is 100% in there (like axles, spindles, birfs and wheel bearings will be replaced on spec). I'm not sure if I'm smart enough to know if it all looks 100%.

    The truck has 67K miles on it and no clicking however I have reason to believe that the seals are leaking because it was noted on the service records from the PO and he never had a complete knuckle job (just wheel bearing repack).

    Once I know the system is 100% then I'll take it from there. It's the knowns of having a used truck from a PO that worries me because I don't personally know the history.

    Thanks for the advice guys.....
     
  20. MTNRAT

    MTNRAT

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    Benie, the suspension install will cost about $300 to $350 cdn from most shops. For that you can get the floor jack, jack stands and bottle jack. Download some instructions and read them carefully, and get comfortable with the idea. Then do it yourself.
    With that note about the leaking seals do the birfs first. I imagine the shop cost for that to be about $480 cdn.
    Sean From Fernie B.C.