Finally Bought my first CRUISER! (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Thanks! Pulled the bolt and flushed the block today with a garden hose through every hose I could push water through. No issues with blockage and everything flushed nicely!

Got the Rad installed today as well! Topped up with 3 parts 50/50 pre mix and 1 part concentrate, to conver any residual water left in hoses etc.




Ahhh But I have Longfield Stickers!;)
I will likely rig up an equalizing hose. Thinking of just pulling the two filler caps, tapping 1/8 or 1/4 NPT and put together fittings and hose.
I would take on a complete transfer case rebuild, if I have to. Would love to get at least the summer out of her first :D

I have kept the OEM air filter housing. Thanks for the heads up....If I have issues there is lots of room there to get it back in place.


There is a member here who makes the hoses. Don't waste your time, just buy one from him. You can always sell it after you don't need it anymore.
 
Is there any reason to romove the equalizing hose? I think even after a rebuild it would help prevent seal failure by ensuring equal pressures?

Also after some reading here, it sounds like my ignition switch is likely failing, and or the starter solenoid/plunger is at the end of days. I will attempt to cleanup the solenoid switch and add a relay to drive the solenoid instead of the ignition switch. Hope that is all I need.
 
Dude. Your commitment is amazing. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the encouragement!
I have learned that if you truly want to gain something in life (not talking $$$, this is about value and knowledge, personal growth), you are gonna have to work hard. If you got it for free or didn't have to try very hard, almost guaranteed, you would have been better off without it. Just my experience.
 
So sheared bolts drilled on center, tapped and heli-coil's locktighted into place
20150621_143424.jpg

20150621_144716.jpg



Then wire wheeled the drum. WEAR YOUR PPE!!!

20150621_152335.jpg


Degrease, then prep and ready by POR15, then paint with rattle can disc/drum high temp chemical resistant paint.
20150621_161123.jpg



Well one drum done! Let the paint dry and probably assemble tomorrow.


Also, looks like I have a sticking starter solenoid/plunger. Tried to start again this am, and again nothing but click. Took a small 2x2, tapped on the plunger housing 2 times, turn the key and she fired right up!!
What do you guys think? This is the third time Ive had her running. First was the drive home, second was after the turbo install to confirm oil flow. (sorry for the sideways vid)




Not related but here, have a laugh! My dog a couple years ago
 
Last edited:
Ok, So finally put this together and got a new wheel installed. One down, three to go! Didn't have any brake lubricant, so used this dry graphite. Hopefully no issues.
20150623_160020.jpg

Drum looks in reasonable shape. No gouging, relatively smooth surface.
20150623_161104.jpg
20150623_161841.jpg


Ha Ha! Looks like a dragster!
20150623_164657.jpg
 
Last edited:
Well I have been slowly 'tinkering' with the old girl between summer fun and work.....
Discovered some nasty shackle pins with pics of PO's suspension 'upgrade'
And look at these U-bolts that I had to Zip cut off! They are too big for the perches by 1/4"?
20150902_193947.jpg



So from this
20150830_151732.jpg


To better than new, factory holes and bolted in place
20150902_160721.jpg


20150902_160813.jpg


Man I cant wait to drive her one day!
 
So front end is done! YA! Got out for a burn on the road and much better.... but still much room for improvement in handling. Still need to do the rear end as all bushings/shocks are shot and rear still has 2" shackle risers to remove. Think I will need castor shim of a couple degrees but I will finish the rear first before deciding.
20150906_192619.jpg
 
Thanks for the encouragement guys! Some days I need it!

I spent 3 days on the passenger side, 1 day on the drivers (not hard or long days ;) some of it waiting for paint to dry..... ) About 80% of my time was removal of the old sheight. By the time I got to the drivers side, I just confidently zip cut off the U bolts and saved myself a couple hours right there! The rear should go much smoother.... unfortunately its raining today.

Question: There is no sway bar on this rig..... as I understand it this is primarily to prevent roll over? I will be 50-60% off road, but I will be traveling highways to get to the trails. Should I have sway bars?

The truck still follows the crest in the road, or potholes etc. Find myself constantly steering. This anything to do with swaybars or more likely castor? I have toe-in of about 0.100" measured at the OD of 33" tires. Believe this is about right?
 
Last edited:
Well, Stupid me.... Need to tighten your new drag links. Not sure why I assumed they would be pre-set??? but running much more like a normal old truck today after some major tightening on the drag links. Now set at 1 full turn off from full seat. Spec is 1 and 1/3 turns but I read everywhere on here guys setting them at 1/2 or 3/4 turn...

Also got into the steering column and discovered the three bolts holding the bearing housing for the steering wheel well backed off. Feeling much more solid now that it is all torqued up.
 
I took the old girl for a rip yesterday, did a little off roading, a big hill climb and Im all smiles!

Today, Im prepping the rear end for new OME suspension, new c channel inserts, and cross member, as well as remounting the shackles to factory locations. Dropped the gas tank, and started grinding away rivets from the c-channel and welds off the shackle risers. Had a local shop bend up some 92mm x 50mm c-channel from 3/16" material. I will be drilling holes in them tomorrow and painting so they can be installed this weekend.

Looks like I will also be repairing the gas tank straps, as lots of corrosion near the rear fastener. Anything else I can do while the tank is off?
Likely I will do some pressure washing and painting while she is all exposed but also want to be done this by Monday.... We will see.

Also noticing that the cross member that the tail gait mounts to is rotten and needing replacement. This may prove to be a snowballing tedious reapair that will be put off to a future date.
 
I also use the anti seize grease stuff and in the beginning its a lot of fixing broken off bolts but now most stuff can be removed when needed.
For the painting I dont do that (like the drum) because there is to much to do, the whole "while I was there" scheiße makes me sick and poor.

When I had the gastank off I replaced the metal U -tube that is there for venting, replaced with rubber hose. And painted the bottom of cargo area.
Painted the tank, but nothing more, the bolts are special so dont loose them.
Replaced cross member: was cheap and tire hoist also working again.
Rivets was a pain, but now 4 years later is is like new so really a one time event.

It seems I also have to tighten the new drag links but did not notice play,
EDIT: no, perfect out of the box, the old ones were turned in more (wear?)

Sway bar is essential for me (but not because steering is off) because I did notice (with full boxes on the roof) how it really makes more sideways movement in corners.

One bushing in the front is missing, replaced with inner tire rubber but missing again...
Rear swaybar bushing mounting was damaged when pulled out of mudhole, so a pain in mud but handy on the road.

When I heard terrible screeching metal to metal noises in 4x4 I thought the gearbox was out but it was because the swaybar was missing the rubber.

I ordered these for 19 mm front swaybar:, looks the same but not sure yet (seems one piece, might cut)
The yellow did it :rimshot:
Sway Bar PU Bushing, Rear Suspension Land Cruiser Prado ID=19 mm 1-01-401
 
Last edited:
You're doing good work on this one. Before and after clearly visable!

I saved my 60 from the wreckers yard so I can relate to neglect and decay.
 
HJ60
the whole "while I was there" scheiße makes me sick and poor.
I hear ya there! Bit of a love/hate relationship I have with my OCD. Always have to stop myself or I would go on forever....

So, busy day trying to fit in playing with work. Got some holes drilled in the new c-channels...
(Side note.... any way to rotate images???
20150918_085544.jpg

And played with the welder
20150918_131017.jpg


Making a new cross-brace that I had been missing.

20150918_131035.jpg


This is way overbuilt but as I have read on here before, anything worth doing, is worth overdoing!
2x4" 3/16" wall hollow structural tubing welded to 1/2" plate for a mounting bracket. This will fit right between the rear body mounts, with the body mount bracket bolts threading into these holes.

Of course we want to make sure this is square and true after welding... and bring right to size for a factory dimension fit.
20150918_142353.jpg



Also did some more grinding in the girls rear end :moon: :p.

Tomorrow is painting and finish grinding/drilling out the rivets. If I was thinking, I would have brought home the Mag-based drill from work. This would save me much time! Might still be worth the extra trip...

Man the days are getting shorter.... hate that part of this time of year:mad:
Cheers
 
So you guys use this s***????
I put it on almost everything. You can thank yourself one day in the future.
Just reduce your torque values accordingly, 15-20%.
View attachment 1097570


this stuff is the s***, if you do your own wrenching, there is no reason not to own a case of this stuff.
 
this stuff is the s***
True... Reminds me I once heard an old man say, Your stuff is s***... now My s*** is stuff!!! :cheers:

The rain is delaying my progress.... almost given up on the idea I will be done Monday. :doh:

Also, I fixed the video links from post #24... not sure what happened there
 
Alright, sorry if you already know this s***.... bit of a PSA coming up

BUT to all the young guys and newbies out there thinking you can take on this task after viewing this.... YES you can IF AND ONLY IF you wear ALL YOUR PPE (Personal Protection Equipment).

20150920_160522.jpg


You want to be able to breathe, see, hear AND maintain all your fingers well into your 90's. The only way is to do this s*** is every time, no matter how many beers you've had, no matter what the potential excuse, DO NOT skimp out on the safety aspect. You will be throwing sparks and chunks of metal straight into your face at times! I should have used a full face shield for sparks. These glasses simply were not good enough as I had to stop a couple times to pick some s*** out of my eyes.
PRO TIP - Always face and look at your grinding task as the sparks and s*** coming at you will be blocked by the glasses. The only times I had issues was when looking somewhere other than where the work was occiring and having a piece of s*** sneak in the side of my glasses or rebound off my cheek or something. Look directly at the task or better, get a full face mask.

OK, moving on now.
 
Alright,
The 'fork' leading into the rear section of frame appears to be designed as a spring I assume....
Passenger side is in reasonable shape... full thickness of solid metal, but this one crack I plan on welding solid again.

20150920_154411.jpg


Drivers side is definitely a lot worse condition.

20150920_094052.jpg


I have cut out this much so far... bringing me to mainly full metal, and will stitch in a replacement piece in the following days.

20150920_174414.jpg


Image of a rear channel cleaned up (I still have some holes to drill out) and 'prep and ready'ied by POR15... almost ready for paint.

20150920_174348.jpg


And the new metal is ready to go.

20150920_163043.jpg


You may notice my new replacement c-channels are longer than all others I have seen on this site and will span completely to the end of the frame.

And then the rain came again..... so that is it for this weekend. More to come!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom