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ff rear hub assblys

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by s79bj40, Jun 6, 2003.

  1. s79bj40

    s79bj40

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    now i have to replace the back hub assembly on my '79bj40, can i just get a hub assembly from the back of a Hj60? they appear to be identicle, and does it matter which way the hub spins or can a left hub be fitted to a right side.

    and lastly, how do you get those bloody little cone washers out of the axle end where it bolts to the hub assembly, i just cant seem to get the little bastards out.

    I have a choice from several vehicles which look like they have the same hubs as mine, 4 60series, and 3 40 series, but one of the 60s allready has the hub partially dissasembled, so i want to use that if its the same

    thanks
    Sam
     
  2. theferg

    theferg

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    You must be from down under....nobody else would just have that stuff sittin' around... :eek:

    As to the cone washers, Gregory's Rapair Manual says to use a "suitable size pin punch"...

    And as to the interchangeability, I haven't got my FF here yet, so I can't speak from experience yet, but I believe that the FF hubs and such from 40s and 60s are interchangeable. Gregory's makes no mention of any difference...

    Anybody else....?
     
  3. theferg

    theferg

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    Oh and I don't believe there to be a right or left side specific hub...
     
  4. nuclearlemon

    nuclearlemon not an addict Moderator

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    for the cone washers, tap a flat blade screwdriver into the split on the washer and they'll drive out.
     
  5. PHAT MAX

    PHAT MAX

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    no no! i almost ruined mine like that! take a brass drift, or hunk of brass, and hammer on the top of the stud....works better than anything else! 8)
     
  6. beanz2

    beanz2 Moderator

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    Sam,

    The HJ60 FF hubs will fit your BJ40. The side doesn't matter, just make sure the stud and dowel holes aren't worn to an oval.

    Dave
     
  7. s79bj40

    s79bj40

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    rippa, thanks guys thats just what i needed.

    there are actually more cruisers in there (a local wrecking yard), but I can only get to a few of them easily, without having to take tyres off etc. I was actually hoping that I wouldn't need to change the bearings, but i'm thinking its probably a good idea now i have to wait for gaskets and seals and stuff.

    cheers
    Sam
     
  8. beanz2

    beanz2 Moderator

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    Sam, by all means clean and inspect the wheel bearings. A lot of used stuff we get from Down Under have shown severe wear such as grooved seal surfaces, worn bearing cups, etc. What's more, if in the wrecking yard this hub has been removed or its axle taken out, rain water may have entered and cause rust. You don't want a wheel bearing seize on you.

    Dave
     
  9. s79bj40

    s79bj40

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    well, i picked up a clean looking hub off an Hj60 at the wreckers last week, it was sealed. Cost me $40. Last weekend i put it on, the bearings in my hub looked new, and the bearings in the hj60 hub looked new, so i kept the 60 bearings and just replaced the seals and cleaned and re-packed the bearings/hub cavity with grease. I put it all together again fine, but it seams that something else is bent around the brakes.

    I had to loosen off the back brake a lot to get it to spin at all, and there is still a high spot somewhere where the brake drum is contacting, but in one revolution of the wheel, it only contacts in one spot? And the drum seems stuck on now. I cant get it off to see what the problem is. :(

    Other than that problem, the 60 hub fits fine, but does have longer wheel studs than mine, and the koyo bearings are fine, so i get to drive it again instead of the bloody landrover.

    Sam
    thanks for everyones help, its much appreciated.
     
  10. beanz2

    beanz2 Moderator

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    Are the wheel studs seated all the way into the hub? Check that your bearing races are seated all the way in the hub, you have to clean the grease out of the hub completely to see this. Is one or two of them bent? Have the drum turned (machined) too, it may be out of round.

    BTW why did you have to replace the original hub?

    Dave
     
  11. s79bj40

    s79bj40

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    The studs are seated correctly, i cleaned the hub before i put it on, and they were all seated flush against the hub, i pulled most of the old grease out with my fingers, and had a good feel around the races, and they seemed to be seated, but i did not actually remove or replace them from where they were when they came out of the 60.

    Nothing i can see is bent?, the wheel spins fine when i back the brakes off, so a machining is in order then, or i'll just buy a second hand drum if its too out of round.

    I had to replace my hub because the holes for the wheel studs were destroyed and let the studs move at angles of 15-20degrees when fully inserted, and i figured no amount of welding was going to get that back to newish condition, especially when a replacement in excellent condition is only $23 US

    Sam
     
  12. beanz2

    beanz2 Moderator

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    If machining the drum doesn't take care of the problem, spin the hub on the spindle without the drum to see if it wobbles. If you use a dial indicator that would be even better. If there is no wobble, your axle spindle may be bent.

    What made the hole for one of the wheel studs oval? If the vehicle has been jumped it may also have bent the rear axle or spindle.





    $23 :eek: A replacement FF hub costs US$150 here. Good thing you're down under! For US$150 you can probably buy the whole rear axle complete with a differential, right?

    Dave
     
  13. s79bj40

    s79bj40

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    not just one of the stud holes was out of round, they all were, i couldn't tighten any of the wheel nuts. It was caused by me being an idiot, and not re-tightening the wheel nuts after i had taken the wheel off to fix a puncture. Being new to alloy wheels i did not realise that you needed to keep re-tightening the nuts. I did manage to get about 2000k from the wheel change to when the nuts came loose though.

    as for the parts prices. cant say what the wreckers would want for an axle/ diff assy, but the trading post regularly has 40/45 series front and rear hub to hub for $150 and sometimes 75series for $150 in diff. all aus dollars.

    Sam