FAQ The Latch Thread (1 Viewer)

[kevinmrowland]

So this thread is for all the latch info and any questions, problems or news.


Latch Page on my site for photos, prices and even video of them operating.



First up, the latches available on tailgate lids:
Top of the pile is the stainless compression latches. The good part about these is that I just started bringing them in as larger batches, so the price is down from what it was before.
The bad news is that these latches cost $55 each latch.

Anyway, I've said on a few occasions that if I had to offer only one latch option. these would be it. One normal one and one locking one, and you are set.
There is no way to have a problem with these latches that I've figured out yet.

 

[kevinmrowland]

Then we have the cam latches.
These hold just as well as the compression latches above, but they are not as slick, they don't go "twump" when you close them and they wont take a beating with a sledge hammer like the solid stainless steel compression ones because, well, they're not made out of solid stainless steel.
The good news is that they are half the cost of the stainless compression ones and that combined with reliability is why they are a great option.
They are available plain or with a tumbler lock core for an extra $5 per core.

Under normal working situations these latches hold up just as well as the stainless ones and they have an nice unassuming utilitarian look about them.

.

 

[kevinmrowland]

Note, if you are looking at the picture of the cam latch above and thinking. "mine doesn't look like that...?"
Click here for recall info.

 

[kevinmrowland]

These are the way-back original push-to-close plastic latches.
They are good little latches but I don't offer them any more, I just feel like they are too light-duty for this application.

I ran them for a long time and there are a handful of folks out there who still swear by them, but the strength, positive hold and security offered by the new latch options are much better.

 

[kevinmrowland]

These were a short lived cost effective option, they are no longer offered since the construction was giving me some problems, there are some design flaws with them, the details of which are here:https://forum.ih8mud.com/wagongear/478274-anyone-else-having-problem-their-standard-latches.html

 

[kevinmrowland]

Also, for the TRULY anti-bling individuals, I figured out how to powder coat the expensive (bomb-proof) stainless steel compression latches so they loose that crazy shiny look.

It looks really cool.
But it costs another $50.
Take a look at the number of parts in these photos and you'll understand why.

 

[kevinmrowland]

The installed black-out latch:

 

[WarDamnEagle]

OK Kevin. I'm sold. I'll PM you to get on the 80 list. I would want the original stainless latches with the powdercoating as you just outlined.

Just one suggestion; why don't you just powdercoat the top parts that show with the lid closed? That should save a bit of cost. I can't imagine that anyone would be bothered with the rest of the parts.

 

[kevinmrowland]

For powder coating the latches, since we're already going a little overboard, I figured we might as go all the way.
There are really only two parts that are not seen from the outside and they are the two parts that don't have to be masked at all, so they don't add that much to the cost.
Go big or go home, right?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Go big or go home, right?

Works for me!

 

[desertdude]

Thats right - Got to have 'em black and never look back...

 

[PabloVTA]

Do you have a schematic on this part?
I busted mine at SNT last weekend and was locked out of the lid when I needed my strap to help out a stuck FJ.

I think the top of my hi-lift jack slammed up against it when I launched in the dunes.
Either way, I need to remove the old plastic and get the new stainless ones.

Is there a snap cover that covers the two bolts? or do I need to drill it out?

 

[kevinmrowland]

Haha! Hey Paul, I had to check your invoice to remember what latches you had, your invoice says "AMA Plastic Latches" AMA= Against My Advice.

Anyway, from the sounds of it your pull-ring busted?
In that case the latch tab would still be held forward by the spring and all you should have to do is put a small screwdriver through where the pull ring attached and gently pry the tab back away from the frame.
The two screws that hold it together are in from the back, can't get to them.

Or you could just hit it with a hammer and it will break apart.
Let me know what lathes you want and I'll send them right out (you can have more of the plastic ones for free, but I think you are done with them now?)

KR

 

[PabloVTA]

you are correct on the AMA part....I know now.

it broke on the inside of the latch, the arm that slides is broken in front of the spring, so when I lift the handle, all I hear is a nice crunching sound and the heel of the latch that I should pull back is snapped from the main body, so it's drill it out in order to get into the door now.

I want the new Stainless ones you have, no locks needed.