Builds Evolution of a Land Cruiser: My 80's build thread (9 Viewers)

[jcardona1]

Are you disconnecting the front or rear hub? How much MPG are you expecting to get once installed? I'm debating doing the same thing to save $$$ on gas while cruising on the freeway ah!

MPH gains are arguable and have been discussed here on the board.

The reason for this conversion in this application is due to high angle drive lines and the ability to reduce wear on the front end. Running chromo front end components wear faster and are really designed for offroad applications, not street use.

Plus very easy to unlock the hubs and walk it home should anything break on the trail.

-A

Yeah this is to completely disconnect the front driveshaft. The manual hubs disengage the hub from the birfs/inner axle so only the wheel spins. As far as MPG go, considering the claims MUD members make about gas mileage, I think this will push me into the 21mpg territory. Realistically, I'll probably see a -2mpg difference.

I'm installing my part time kit this weekend as well, anyone know how much material to cut off the chromo axle to clear the aisin hub?

I haven't heard of anyone "cutting" anything "off" other than the grove required for the C clip.

-A

Yeah you don't cut anything! All you do is a cut a new groove for the snap ring. This thread explains it all. See Beno's post #21 for exact measurements https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/longs-with-aisin-hubs-install.235634/

There is nothing on this rig that is being considered "to improve gas mileage." To improve "Smileage"...YES!

Yeah I'm not expecting any MPG gain. I could be on 31" tires or 40s. This thing will still get 12mpg no matter what.

 

[TheBelgian]

MPH gains are arguable and have been discussed here on the board.

The reason for this conversion in this application is due to high angle drive lines and the ability to reduce wear on the front end. Running chromo front end components wear faster and are really designed for offroad applications, not street use.

Plus very easy to unlock the hubs and walk it home should anything break on the trail.

-A

Got it! Makes sense...

 

[warezdog]

Quick Jose, if you don't already have them
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/austin-hubs.858907/unread

 

[jcardona1]

Quick Jose, if you don't already have them
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/austin-hubs.858907/unread

That's a great deal! I already have the 80 series hubs though

 

[nukegoat]

If you're saying that the rear sucks because of the relative flex compared to the front, that's not exactly what Booger and others (including myself) are complaining about. The spring rate in lbs/in in the front (in a droop scenario) is way lighter than the rear since you have single rate coils in the rear as well as a sway bar that's still connected.

Put another way, if you added a front sway bar to make up for the lost spring rate and then tried flexing it out, it'd appear a lot more balanced.

Without a rear sway bar:

The reason people say the rear sucks is because of the bad roll axis that the stock geometry creates. That's an issue you can't really describe in pictures - but you will certainly feel. I fixed mine and I love it.

 

[4WheelUnderground]

The bad roll axis... while wheelin? or street?

 

[nukegoat]

The bad roll axis... while wheelin? or street?

In the rear? It didn't bother me much while wheelin' but I'm glad I corrected it either way.

 

[Benlx4501hdt]

Hey Josa awesome build and great detail.
I am in the middle of converting my lx450 to a 1hdt diesel it is going great just having fun with the electrical part the mechanical part was really easy just drop in and bolt up. So on this note I have 1fzfe 1996 engines for sale and thought you might want one as a spare engine to rebuild let me know if you are interested.

 

[jcardona1]

If you're saying that the rear sucks because of the relative flex compared to the front, that's not exactly what Booger and others (including myself) are complaining about. The spring rate in lbs/in in the front (in a droop scenario) is way lighter than the rear since you have single rate coils in the rear as well as a sway bar that's still connected.

Put another way, if you added a front sway bar to make up for the lost spring rate and then tried flexing it out, it'd appear a lot more balanced.

Without a rear sway bar:

The reason people say the rear sucks is because of the bad roll axis that the stock geometry creates. That's an issue you can't really describe in pictures - but you will certainly feel. I fixed mine and I love it.

Makes sense. But I'm not clear on what bad roll axis is. Can you translate that into what I'd feel in the butt dyno on the freeway?

 

[nukegoat]

Makes sense. But I'm not clear on what bad roll axis is. Can you translate that into what I'd feel in the butt dyno on the freeway?

Butt dyno... mmmm - basically a positive roll axis will translate into oversteer when leaning into turns. In some regards, it will make the vehicle feel a bit more nimble and spirited but it will be more jittery on the freeway and so on.

Try disconnecting your rear sway bar and going for a ride (you will not like it, but it's a good experiment) then try disconnecting it and see how well everything flexes together off-road (you *will* like this).

At some point, though, go out and rock your new setup! I am envious...

 

[nukegoat]

I'm contemplating ditching the elocker axles now and going open and tossing locking spools in each of them.

What? are you sure what that means

 

[jcardona1]

PART TIME CONVERSION

Here's a few random pics while I was working on the conversion. I didn't take detailed photos the whole way though however. Beno's old thread on converting to part-time is a really good resource. Plenty of photos with a step-by-step walkthrough. A few things I learned or would have done differently:

- I left the TC in the truck. Makes it annoying, but not impossible. I didn't lower the transmission either. If I were to do this again I probably would lower the transmission. Would make it much easier as there's a few bolts up very close to the floorboard that are hard to reach.

- I didn't buy a new rear bearing for the part time spool. Ten minutes and $20 at the local gear shop and I had the bearings swapped. They looked and felt brand new.

- The snap ring on the viscous coupler was a pain to get off because I didn't have the slim nose lock ring pliers. Had to destroy the ring with a serious of pliers and screwdrivers. I think you'd want something like this to make the job easier: http://www.amazon.com/Sealey-Lock-R...2656731&sr=8-2&keywords=slim+lock+ring+pliers

- When removing the case to reveal the gears, BE VERY CAREFUL that the gear assemblies don't shift backwards as you're pulling the case off. If you do, the shift forks move which causes a detent spring to drop which I think means you'll be dropping the case and disassembling the whole thing. Mine shifted a bit. The TC lever moved to the L position and it would NOT go back in its spot because of the spring. After spinning the gears and playing with the lever for about an hour it magically went back in its place. Consider myself lucky. I tested the TC lever and it feels fine so I don't think I messed up the detent spring. Time will tell however.​

Yesterday I filled it with oil after letting the FIPG dry. All left to do is bolt up the driveshafts and test it out. But I did test it out without the driveshafts and so far so good. Front output shaft doesn't spin until I press the CDL button...MAGIC!

After tearing open the case

Stock rear case and the new spool

All the leftover parts

 

[AMMO]

Testing this weekend....?

 

[jcardona1]

Testing this weekend....?

I think so! Quick run up to Signal?

 

[nukegoat]

You didn't want to install the low range gears while in there?

 

[jcardona1]

You didn't want to install the low range gears while in there?

I would have liked to, but it's an expense 'while I'm in there' thing. I'm holding out for the doubler because it seems like you get a lot more reduction for the money. $900 for 25% reduction seems pricey!

 

[yotasavg]

I would have liked to, but it's an expense 'while I'm in there' thing. I'm holding out for the doubler because it seems like you get a lot more reduction for the money. $900 for 25% reduction seems pricey!

A double tcase setup for the 80 series you say? That sounds really interesting, who's making it? Also sorry to stray off topic, but I've heard a lot of talk about the "Signals"... how exactly does one get there to play a bit?

 

[jcardona1]

A double tcase setup for the 80 series you say? That sounds really interesting, who's making it? Also sorry to stray off topic, but I've heard a lot of talk about the "Signals"... how exactly does one get there to play a bit?

Here you go: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/doubler.824112/

And also this http://4x4trailmaps.com/4x4Trails.php?Trail_ID=82

 

[yotasavg]

Here you go: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/doubler.824112/

And also this http://4x4trailmaps.com/4x4Trails.php?Trail_ID=82

Boom, thanks a ton Jose!

 

[warezdog]

What? are you sure what that means

Lokka makes auto lockers for the front and rear diffs but they require an open dif. Tired of dealing with elockers, especially the rear one!