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Electrical failure...Help

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by silvercruiser, Aug 24, 2003.

  1. silvercruiser

    silvercruiser

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    Had a good day wheelin today (2N17X in So Cal) until a strange electrical failure occured. I was attempting to go up and over a ledge at the top of a climb. I was all locked up bouncing around a bit when the truck stalled. I restarted the engine without a problem but found that all my gauges, AC, and Power Windows were not working. Mechanically everything important continued to work and I was able to complete the run. But it got really hot with no AC and all the windows up! I was able to manually crank the sunroof open a bit and had the rear sliding windows open in order not to suffocate.

    Other problem is that I could not turn off the center lock diff button. So I had to drive home on the fwy with it locked. Could this cause any problems to the diff or tranny?

    I suspect that a fusible link shorted somewhere but on the trail I couldn't locate it. I checked the fuses in the engine compartment and they were good. Anybody experience anything like this? Thanks in advance for your help.
     
  2. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    Gauge fuse in the instrument panel fuse box to the left of the steering column ;) . (10amp ATO)
     
  3. silvercruiser

    silvercruiser

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    C-Dan,
    Is this located in the interior fuse box? If so all the fuses are good and all the fuses are good in the engine comparment fuse box.
     
  4. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    Yes, the panel in the passenger compartment. Has anyone added any taps to that panel?
    Pull it and replace it with a known good fuse to be sure. The symptoms you describe are consistant with failure in that circuit.

    I just went out and pulled my gauge fuse and it killed everything you described in your first post. Your problem is somewhere in that circuit.

    Dan.
     
  5. silvercruiser

    silvercruiser

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    C-Dan,
    Lesson learned replace fuse even if it looks good and tests good. I replaced the fuse and everything worked again - at least until I drove it ahhggghhh. The fuse blew again! The only thing that I have added would be the center diff locking button. Any other thoughts on this? Your wisdom is greatly appreciated.
     
  6. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    You could have a draw in the circuit. I had a leg up on you on this one because I used to run 50 watt backup lights. They would blow that fuse every few months. I finally got the hint and took them out. Do you have anything like that in the circuit? It is also possible that you had a weak replacement fuse. You may try another and pay very close attention to exactly when it pops. IE if a particular event causes it like shifting into reverse.

    Go forth and test..........Dan.
     
  7. silvercruiser

    silvercruiser

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    C-Dan,
    You are good! I also have a 40w backup light. Just disconnected it and the fuse no longer blows. The backup light has worked just fine for the last year why would this be a problem now? I'm going to miss the backup light.

    Thanks Again!!!
     
  8. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    The reason that it worked for a while and now causes problems is any body's guess. I'm not so sure that a fuse is a fuse. It may be that you had an original fuse that was on the robust side or perhaps the replacements are not as tough. It could also be that the lamp has changed over time and is drawing more current than it did.

    Just wild guesses, of course. Glad it's working now. ;)

    Dan.