Dumpinthegutters BLACK BETTY (1 Viewer)

[Dumpinthegutter]

91 Toyota Truck
-wheelbase is 125" and the width is 90" outside of tire to outside of tire.
-Fully Tig welded Exo Cage

Drive Train
-350 motor
-350 trans
-Lokar shifter
-203/205 doubler twin sticked
-Brand new GOTPROPANE system with 2 used aluminum forklift tanks - need to revamp the cage to get them protected.

Front
-Dana 60
-5.13 gears
-Detroit
-Full Yukon 4340's with Super Joints
-RPM 35 spline drive flanges
-coil springs
-rancho shocks
-3 link with track bar

Rear
-14 bolt
-5.13 gears
-detroit
-disc brakes
-coil springs
-ranch shocks
-grader ball suspension

Misc.
-rock lights
-Mastercraft Harnesses. lap belts installed, need to get a brace welded in for the shoulder straps.
-custom tube doors
-9500# winch
- 5 - 42" Iroks on 15" black steel wheels
-Crawlfab weld on beadlocks not installed yet
- Full Hydro steering
- Spare PSC SE ram
-CD player

That's the important stuff, but now what everyone wants... PICS

and the Tundra Tow rig

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Sweet!

 

[Dumpinthegutter]

Thanks! It was dead in the water for the last month with a bad tranny. Finally got it back in over the holiday weekend trying to prepare for all the events coming up and thought I'd make a build page.

 

[Tapage]

killer combo .. tundra and mini ..

What kind of mileage you get from both tanks ..?

 

[Dumpinthegutter]

Tundra gets 13 daily driving in town. Gets a little better on the highway. It gets 10.7 pulling Betty. I drive with a heavy foot and It's got quite a bit of extra weight with the 5 - 35" Trail Grapplers, Expedition One front and rear, and the winch. My dad averages 3-4 mpg better in his stock Tundra.

I'm not too sure on the truggy since it's not street legal. Most times it lasts the whole weekend. Depends on how much time I'm in low.

 

[Dumpinthegutter]

Fabbed a rear stinger to protect my propane tanks. I think it turned out pretty good.

Also got tabs welded and installed some IPFs that used to be on my FJC.

 

[Dumpinthegutter]

Oops.

GoPro same spot
Buzzard Canyon - YouTube

Random Trail
Buzzard Canyon - YouTube

 

[Dumpinthegutter]

Some pics from last months trans rebuild. I lost the Sprag in 2nd.

Towed it to shop with our wrecker.

Home made trans jack since it is too tall for a real one. 203/205 out.

All torn apart.

The trans had a TCI 3k stall converter. I was told this is to keep the truck from pushing through the brakes at idle. One thing it definitely did was help the trans overheat on long runs. I went back with a 1k stall, no more heating and no pushing through brakes.

 

[Delancy]

Moving into Hardcore, I see.

Hahaha.

Clayton's when, again?

 

[Dumpinthegutter]

Slowly making the transition. Welded beadlocks on this weekend. I can make a DIY post if anyone is interested.

Clayton is this coming weekend.

 

[Dumpinthegutter]

As you know purchasing beadlocks can get expensive quick. For those of you out there that want the benefits of a beadlock with out the price tag, this thread is for you. This is not for everyone though. If you have no experience with welding I wouldn't recommend trying this. You don't need to be a professional but the welds do need to be pretty air tight. We'll get into checking that later.

Step One - Prep:
Break down your wheels and tires. My dad has a tire machine so this was a pretty easy task. Once your wheels are broken down. Use a flapper disc on a grinder to clean the paint around the lip to receive the beadlock. If you are like me and have very used wheels you'll also need a crescent wrench to straighten out any bends or dents from crawling.

Once the beads are clean and down to bare metal take your inner ring and chamfer the outer edge that will be welded. I used the same flapper and grinder for this step. Doing this will make it easier when you start burning it in.

Step Two - Welding:
Now that all your prep work is done, this is the point of no return. Take your inner ring and center in the lip of your wheel. There should be about a 1/16" gap all the way around. If your vehicle is a daily driver this is a very important step as it can cause your wheel to not balance properly.

Once centered clamp the ring to the wheel. I then put 4 tac welds around the wheel at 12, 6, 9, and 3. Moving right along, It's now time to put some good beads in. I worked counter clockwise around the wheel with ~1" beads for the first round.

Starting at 12 moving to 6, 9, and then 3. This pattern will help to disperse heat around the wheel and prevent it from warping.

Staying with the pattern above I moved to ~5" beads until I had welded the entire wheel.

Step 3 - Checking your welds

At this point I ground down the welds flush with the inner ring. Then take sidewalk chalk and generously go around the entire edge. Set the wheel up right and pour in a small amount of mineral spirits to the inside lip of the ring. Be careful not to put so much so that it spills out of the bolt holes. Roll the wheel slowly. If there are any holes in your weld, the chalk will let you know and it will look like this.

I went ahead and tac'd the hole, but I've heard using silicone when seating the tire will fill small holes such as the one above.

Step 4 - Paint

Easy enough...

Step 5 - Outer-ring

Old Cruiser did a great right up on this - HERE

DONE!!! Go have a beer and pat yourself on the back for a job well done!

 

[Dumpinthegutter]

Beadlocks held up well. Axle did not... but it was a great weekend at Rocktober regardless.

Rocktober @ Clayton - YouTube

 

[Dumpinthegutter]

 

[Delancy]

That don't look good.

 

[Dumpinthegutter]

So, This probably isn't very applicable here but since I went through the effort to make it I thought I'd share for those interested, I'll show you how to breakdown a Chevrolet Dana 60 (or 1ton) front axle. Let the fun begin.

First step is getting your vehicle on a level surface, placing the axle on jack stands, and removing the tires.

Now that your tires are pulled you'll move to the break calipers. The nut that holds the caliper together will be removed with a 1/4" allen wrench. Once it's free use a bungee to hang it out of the way with out over extending the brake lines.

The drive cap will be removed with the same 1/4" allen wrench.

With the cap off just keep pulling the drive flange parts. Once the snap ring is off, you'll use the screws from the caps to pull the flanges.

With the flanges out of the way, the next step is removing the hub. You'll need a 6pin 2.6" socket to pull the spindle nuts.

 

[Dumpinthegutter]

Now that the hub is off, you'll use a 3/4" socket to free the spindle.

Now the spindle and seals will pull off.

Now the axles will slide right out.

Pieces, and empty.

The other side will come apart exactly the same. Except you'll likely be doing this to remove or change a broken axle. In this case it tis the passenger inner axle that is broken. We will resume at that step from above.

Using a drop light you'll see your broken axle shaft. Clean debris.

Pull the diff cover and check for debris. Diff cover will pull with the 1/4" allen wrench.

If you are running a Detroit locker you can use a 3/8" solid rod and drive the axle out from the opposite side.

With the broken shaft out, The spring for the inner seal was wrapped tightly around the end of the shaft. So I have to pull the ring, pinion, and locker. WHen you pull the carrier bolts BE SURE to keep them on their exact side and orientation. Meaning they are side and orientation specific. YOU DO NOT want to mix them up from side to side or flip them over. They need to be put back on in EXACTLY the same place and orientation.

 

[Dumpinthegutter]

You will need a pry bar or slide hammer to get them out, and an extra set of hands as they are heavy.

Stay tuned next week for rebuild.

 

[StevoJonesFJ60]

Sweet breakdown on the axle, I'm sure it will help me out when I blow my front axle up.

 

[Dumpinthegutter]

Thanks. It's kinda basic stuff. I mainly wanted to post this to show people that you could do this entire thing on the trail with basic tools except for the 6pin 1ton socket (if it was level enough). In your case runnin 43's you'll probably bind and break at some point if you've got stock axles.

 

[StevoJonesFJ60]

Thanks. It's kinda basic stuff. I mainly wanted to post this to show people that you could do this entire thing on the trail with basic tools except for the 6pin 1ton socket (if it was level enough). In your case runnin 43's you'll probably bind and break at some point if you've got stock axles.

Yeah I'm pretty muck expecting that to happen.
I'll upgrade to some 35 spline yukons when it does.