Dual Battery setup with Blue Sea Add A Battery Kit (1 Viewer)

[bwakeling]

Hi, I am trying to figure out the install for my dual battery setup. I have the Blue Sea Add A Battery Kit https://www.bluesea.com/products/7650/Add-A-Battery_Kit_-_120A

With the battery switch should I be connecting the Fuseable links to the switch or do some rewiring? Here is the instructions Blue Sea provides http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/990310020.pdf

thanks.

 

[NLXTACY]

When you say Fuseable Links, are you talking about the factory ones?

 

[1973Guppie]

something to consider when using that BS kit, if you go to a 160 amp alternator, ie: sequoia that unit will not handle the extra load.

 

[gofast]

The factory fusible links do not need to be accessed/bypassed/replaced etc. in the installation of this kit - the kit is designed to not interfere with your factory electrical system for fusible links. The blue sea set up should have inline fuses on the main line between your start battery to your blue sea charging relay, and between the house battery and the charging relay. The other fuses in the diagram isolate your accessory fuse bus and also your ground bar. You can access something that runs only on ignition keyed switch to excite the relay - this is your other fuse in the diagram. I used the same relay but without the power switch and my fuses on the main going from start to the house battery are 175 amp each ( recommended by blue sea)

Blue Sea is not kidding when they say use the same ground for both batteries. I didn't and the loads wouldn't balance and the charging relay got confused and wouldn't keep my house battery charged until I fixed it by following the recommendation.

The system will work without the big red switch if you don't need it. Blue sea's staff are very helpful if you have questions and call them

 

[bwakeling]

Hi,

What I was planning was to connect the factory fuseable links that connect to the battery would be now connected to the switch, new 1/0 welding cable connecting the switch to the battery, 1/0 wire with 100 amp AMG fuse to ACR, 100 amp fuse between ACR and 2nd battery + terminal with 1/0 wire also between the switch and the 2nd battery. I picked up enough 10 gauge wire to run all grounds back to the main battery - terminal and have inline fuses for the ACR ground.

I dont plan on upgrading the alt. but figure its easy to replace the relay in the future if I use 1/0 cable now. I have thought about not using the switch to simplify things but it will be handy for boosting or heavy winching situations.

Hope this makes sense. More so it is a pain figuring out where I am going to mount everything.

 

[MANUCHAO]

Keep it simple..
Here is a diagram I used...
slightly different BS Relay (PN7622), but worth every penny....
And the little remote switch is great to have...

 

[bulhas]

Byron

I hate to say it..... youll probably end up upgrading your alt

 

[LFD2037]

Hi,

What I was planning was to connect the factory fuseable links that connect to the battery would be now connected to the switch, new 1/0 welding cable connecting the switch to the battery, 1/0 wire with 100 amp AMG fuse to ACR, 100 amp fuse between ACR and 2nd battery + terminal with 1/0 wire also between the switch and the 2nd battery. I picked up enough 10 gauge wire to run all grounds back to the main battery - terminal and have inline fuses for the ACR ground.

I dont plan on upgrading the alt. but figure its easy to replace the relay in the future if I use 1/0 cable now. I have thought about not using the switch to simplify things but it will be handy for boosting or heavy winching situations.

Hope this makes sense. More so it is a pain figuring out where I am going to mount everything.

You don't need 1/0 wire (2 gauge is plenty. Most premade kits come w/6ga). Don't mess w/fusible links. You should go higher than 100A fuse (150A). The 10 gauge ground is too small (it should match your + so 2ga.).

 

[ericbirk]

Hey Byron,

Did you ever end up installing this? I have the same kit and am thinking I wont even bother putting the big red switch in.

 

[bwakeling]

yes I did. I cut out the switch for simplicity and just carry jumper cables. I used 1/0 which is probably overkill but it works great.

 

[n00g7]

Uhh, what are you trying to do with the battery first? If you plan on using it for a starter backup/winching/etc. with high amp load, you're going to want a 500A unit, and there's no point fusing that.

Edit: as for wiring, it's incredibly simple. 1st + terminal to BS unit to 2nd + terminal, then ground 2nd battery. Done.

 

[bwakeling]

I have the winch run off the second battery and will wire my inverter and rear 12 v terminal off it too. I have the winch on a Flaming River switch fused with a 500 amp ANL fuse.

 

[n00g7]

I have the winch run off the second battery and will wire my inverter and rear 12 v terminal off it too. I have the winch on a Flaming River switch fused with a 500 amp ANL fuse.

If the wire chafes do you think an arc is going to draw >500A to pop the fuse? You're just adding more connections that could fail.

 

[rc51kid]

i apologize because i have not read the thread through. But are you dead set on the kit you have? I looked at a lot of them and went with hell roaring. AThe other nice thing is that you can email them and they basically send you simple instructions with wire gauge and everything. Then just go to Genuinedealz.com and order everything. Takes all the guess work out of it.

 

[ericbirk]

Wiring it up isnt the issue. I simply wanted to know if Byron had installed his yet.
I already have my plan, just need the wire and ends to do it.
I am only using my secondary for aux items, my winch will stay on the main.

 

[bwakeling]

If the wire chafes do you think an arc is going to draw >500A to pop the fuse? You're just adding more connections that could fail.

Its switched off just off the battery and the fuse is backup to the switch. Probably overkill as well but gives me some comfort there are less chances it will burn the truck to the ground if the wire chafes.

 

[n00g7]

Its switched off just off the battery and the fuse is backup to the switch. Probably overkill as well but gives me some comfort there are less chances it will burn the truck to the ground if the wire chafes.

The problem is that the fuse isn't going to break, and if the wire running from the fuse to backup chafes the fuse won't do anything anyways.

 

[Dave 2000]

Keep it simple..
Here is a diagram I used...
slightly different BS Relay (PN7622), but worth every penny....
And the little remote switch is great to have...

Pretty much identical to mine including the PN 7622, ACR. Been in there around 4 years ish, super reliable. I have no fuses between the two battery positives, I run the cables under the radiator and back up to the batteries, so if in an impact liable to reach those cables then I doubt I would live long enough to see the flames! My entire install was for want of a better word 'thrown' in as opposed to installed, I was in the middle of trialling a 24v to 12v conversion for the diesel starter, finally I have decided to make it permanent......well it was FIVE years ago, nothing like a proper test! Now to reduce cable runs and in general tidy up under the bonnet, I am going to run the cable under the panel where the bonnet catch is. I wanted to protect the heavy cable between the two batteries but was tossing up between circuit breakers and heavy fuses. I will be going for fuses at the positive battery terminals as per your setup, which is fine. The Blue Seas circuit breakers max out at 200 amp, and trip around 250, which is just a little too near my anticipated amperage draw, so fuse it is.

Regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

I have the winch run off the second battery and will wire my inverter and rear 12 v terminal off it too. I have the winch on a Flaming River switch fused with a 500 amp ANL fuse.

Have you checked if that 500 rating is for blow or continuous? Most rated fuses are for continuous use, so if you try and pull 500 amps it will not blow, you would need a dead short or a pull of around 700 amps for it to fail.

regards

Dave

 

[bwakeling]

Have you checked if that 500 rating is for blow or continuous? Most rated fuses are for continuous use, so if you try and pull 500 amps it will not blow, you would need a dead short or a pull of around 700 amps for it to fail.

regards

Dave

Thats a good questions. I have a Warn M12000 and I believe it pulls about 450 amps.