Drive shaft home balancing?

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by remac226, Aug 13, 2010.

  1. remac226

    remac226

    Messages:
    211
    Location:
    Columbia, SC
    I saw on a post (read so many I cant remember which one) something about a way to balance a drive shaft with hose clamps. Have a balance problem with my front shaft and cant get it out because of the idiots who replaced my u-joints for me. Gonna address the removal issue soon but wanted to see if there was a way I could temporarily balance it myself.

    Thanks!
  2. bhmmapping

    bhmmapping SILVER Star

    Messages:
    3,610
    Location:
    Birmingham, AL
    I would just take it off and lock the center diff until you can get it properly balanced. Have you checked to make sure it is aligned correctly? I I can't ever remember but I think the front is supposed to be 90 degrees out of phase?
  3. ToyotaDon

    ToyotaDon I am here

    Messages:
    1,788
    Location:
    Visalia, CA
    If there's a problem with your u-joints, that could be the source of a vibration.
  4. remac226

    remac226

    Messages:
    211
    Location:
    Columbia, SC
    It is aligned properly with the front out of phase. The idiots did not mark anything when they took it out and put the joits in, cross threaded one stud on the t-case output flange, and over torqued another stud so the back of the stud is not grabbing and it is turning when I put a wrench on it. The vibration is not horrible but it is deff the front shaft. Looking at replacing the output shaft vs. tack welding the stud and rethreading the cross threaded stud. What a mess! Just thought I could "home" balance it while I am figuring out what to do.
  5. remac226

    remac226

    Messages:
    211
    Location:
    Columbia, SC
    U joints are new and I inspected them last night. Pulled the front of the shaft loose and was able to manipulate the rear u-joint assymbly and the front was nice and smooth too. Joint are good just out of balance a little at about 45 and the 65. Nice and smooth everywhere else.
  6. yoopercharged

    yoopercharged SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,129
    Location:
    Marquette,MI
    You could take a hose clamp and put it on one end. The screw would be the heavy spot. Mark where it is on the shaft and keep rotating it (hose clamp) and try it until its smooth. Then you would know where to put weight.
  7. remac226

    remac226

    Messages:
    211
    Location:
    Columbia, SC
    That’s what I thought it said. Do I leave it slightly loose and let the centrifugal force rotate it to the spot or keep moving it?
  8. jlg32281

    jlg32281

    Messages:
    1,994
    Location:
    Vidor, TX
    i would take it to a good shop and send the dummies that messed it up the bill.
  9. ALCO

    ALCO

    Messages:
    270
    Location:
    Glendale, AZ
    Before balancing a driveshaft it should be straightened. You need a lathe, dial micrometer, torch, and an expensive balancer machine. Ujoints must be installed correctly.

    Find a good driveline shop to do the job right.
  10. kidglove13

    kidglove13

    Messages:
    3,578
    Location:
    Richmond, VA
    If I remember correctly I read somewhere that if you use the hose clamp you should put it on the shaft semi tight so that it can still rotate abit and that it will balance it self out when you drive it and then you go under the rig and tighten it up for good.
    I think it is oone of those carry the tools and drive around and get it right.
    you are better off just pulling the shaft and have it done right because you will shorten the life of those new u-joints with the vibes if not fixed right.
    Try the hose clamp idea and report back if it works. It could be a good temp fix for some folks if need be.
    Plus I am interested to see if it even works at all.
    Let us know if you try it.
  11. remac226

    remac226

    Messages:
    211
    Location:
    Columbia, SC
    i put the clamp on and about two miles later a difference was noticed. it was loose enough to move but would not rotate on its own if i let go of it. it needed a little more weight so i added another and it got worse than with one so i lined them up and marked both clamps and the shaft. they did move and stay where they were needed. they spread out a little so in the morning i am going to get some shaft weights and remove the second clamp. i am going to regrease everything and drive it with one clamp. once i get that one where it needs to be i am gonna slide the lightest of the weights i can under the clamp and snug it. i will do this until i get it right and the tack the wieght in place w my welder. will update when i am done.

  12. remac226

    remac226

    Messages:
    211
    Location:
    Columbia, SC
    Okay so it makes a difference but I cannot get it right. Gonna have to pull it and have it done by the drive line shop. Anyone know how the front flange comes off of the transfer case? Is it a nut in the center fof the flange like on the differentials and pull it off or is there more to it? cant find a good pic to decide how to go about getting it off.

    Thanks!
  13. kidglove13

    kidglove13

    Messages:
    3,578
    Location:
    Richmond, VA
    I dont think you want to remove the t-case flange.
    Just seperate it between the flange and the shaft right 4 bolts?
  14. remac226

    remac226

    Messages:
    211
    Location:
    Columbia, SC
    Yes 4 bolts but thanks to the guys who replaced my u-joints in the front shaft my bolts have issues. Trying to decide if I cut the two bad ones off or go at it another way. If I can just pull the flange like you can a differential flang by removing the center nut I will just cut them if not I need to rethink this. Anybody know for sure?
  15. kidglove13

    kidglove13

    Messages:
    3,578
    Location:
    Richmond, VA
    Cut the 2 bad ones with a dremel tool ease as pie and get 4 new bolts
  16. remac226

    remac226

    Messages:
    211
    Location:
    Columbia, SC
    Right but the bad ones are on the output flange of the transfer case and they are pressed in studs. I can cut htem for sure but is there a center nut to pull the flange off of the tranfer case so I can put new ones in? Or do I have to pull the tcase apart to get it out? Dont want to cut anything until I figure that part out.
  17. 96r50

    96r50

    Messages:
    2,818
    You have to remove the rear tailhousing from the transfer case to remove the rear output shaft. It's not excessively difficult, but it is a pain. Dan/Beno have a part number for replacements studs (off a 60 series IIRC) and I would also recommend replacing the rear bearing and oil seal while you're in there.
  18. remac226

    remac226

    Messages:
    211
    Location:
    Columbia, SC
    I appreciate it but it is the front output shaft. Got the nuts off at lunch and the drive shaft is out!!! Had the stud that was turning tacked from the back and was able to get the nut off. Had two studs cross threaded so gonna have it all balanced and rethread the studs and put it back together. What a pain in the ASS!!! You should have to have a license to operate a air gun. Note to everyone:

    Always hand tighten all nuts before putting the air gun on them! Haha! Should be common sense but it obviousl is not!

    Thanks for all the input!
  19. dino30

    dino30

    Messages:
    1
    You shouldnt use an air gun to tighten anything on a car .. Thats why there are torque spec's for everything ... They are to prevent things like this from happening ..

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