Builds dougbert's future 350 swap: How much torque is too much? (1 Viewer)

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With the new installer I' go ahead and finish installing it. That way the cranks case is sealed up and the odds of any chips getting in are extremely remote.

Anything more than one bolt diameter worth of thread depth is basically wasted. Consider the height of nearly any nut that you would screw onto that bolt in any other, through-bolted application. It's total thread depth will be slightly less than one bolt diameter.
 
With the new installer I' go ahead and finish installing it. That way the cranks case is sealed up and the odds of any chips getting in are extremely remote.

Anything more than one bolt diameter worth of thread depth is basically wasted. Consider the height of nearly any nut that you would screw onto that bolt in any other, through-bolted application. It's total thread depth will be slightly less than one bolt diameter.

Got the hole drilled out to the tap chart value using a 15/32 drill. Used a cobalt drill, I got for $6.95 w/free shipping off of Ebay

drilled to the same depth as original hole.

Got a 2.5 inch length Grade 8, 1/2-20 bolt.
Ordered a BBC bolt in order to used its washer.
Found out that BBC bolts are 1.5 inch, while the SBC is 2.5 inch.
So all is good. Everything will be like the SBC setup, but with a larger bolt.

On the SBC, the crank is NOT flush with the balancer, but is recessed 1 inch. Interesting things one learns in the process.

tap is enroute, and I found my tap and die set (buried under a pile of boxes) so I can use the handle. My set does not have the 1/2-20 tap, so no duplicate wasted money.

I also ordered a engine stand, to get the engine off of the engine mount, thereby being able to put the flywheel and starter on.
I no longer need to spin the engine any more

dougbert
 
Three weeks ago (after being gone to the grand kids and getting sick from them) I finally tapped the hole.

It came out great! My own balancer installation tool figs snug, so I believe the 1/2 inch hole will work wonderfully. Just need some time to install, then I will degree the came.

Ordered water pump, head gaskets and some other smaller misc parts

dougbert
 
The 2F has been pulled out of the rig! Big time Atta BOY! from my wife. Pics below on the pull. That is Jake in the second pic, at his Cruizer Barnlot. His picker on the end of his truck.

Got some parts for sale from in the classified section.

I have ordered 1 Vortec Head for the 360, have the water pump now, WP pulley, degreed the cam. So when the head gets here, we can mount it

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couple more pics, especially the EMPTY BAY :bounce:

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Now is the time to clean the engine bay so that working in it during the swap doesn't make a mess of you. It's a bigger project than I thought it would be. Recommend a high pressure washer if one can be sourced.
 
What are all the wires along the top of the firewall and the gizmo on the drivers fender? You launching the shuttle from there? :lol:

I used some fast orange degreaser and a green scrub pad on my engine compartment after I yanked the engine - turned out better than I hoped. There is paint under all that gunk!
 
What are all the wires along the top of the firewall and the gizmo on the drivers fender? You launching the shuttle from there? :lol:

I used some fast orange degreaser and a green scrub pad on my engine compartment after I yanked the engine - turned out better than I hoped. There is paint under all that gunk!

yeah you are seeing my poor wiring habits in the open.

I have an O2 sensor and gauge in the rig for a Microsquirt controller which I may put in in the future.

On the passenger wheel well is a mess of wires to and from various relays for head lights (hi and low beam) and the flood lights on the roof, and some other items. You can also see the POSITIVE junction post. I run ONE large positive wire from battery to that post and then ALL other draws for power come to that POSITIVE post. Got the idea from a post on this site, I think from the Under $50 thread

I need to clean those wire up properly and make it look better and protect and route the wires more securely and attractively.

On the driver's well is the Air pump for the air locker in the rear.

And yes, I have been waiting to get the engine out to clean everything up. Jake has a pressure washer and he is hooking his carpet cleaning van with proper attachments to the water tanks therein for a water source for the washer. Then I need I hot day to "get wet" and clean it all.

Need to take off the gas vapor canister, vac hoses, and other stuff I won't need with the SBC, as well as the tranny and mount. Then we can grind the engine mounts off and make it all real purty.

So glad summer is here in order to stand out in Jake's field

BTW, the one Vortec head arrived today!

thanks for the reference to the Orange degunker


dougbert
 
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Uh oh. That bearded guy is me.....
 
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Finally (after a crazy and busy month) spent yesterday removing the tranny and TC, and cross member. Picture of the 'hole' below

THEN spent $35 at the pressure car washer removing the oil/grease/dirt/who-knows "junk" on the front of the frame and surrounding area. I did use some ORANGE Gunk degreaser.
(I was cool during the hot day, as I ended up very wet - lol)

Got to thinking about my plan of re-using the LC's TC and existing axle.

Pondering doing a NP241 TC and a 14bolt diff. Did some more research last night and found some interest details in my learning quest:

The 14b diff is a 8 lug axle (correct me if I am wrong) - is this a problem, or just a new fact of life? How does one handle a SPARE? go with 2 SPARES?

It' heavy

Bigger on the bottom of the central hub (some shave it) - bottom line: hits more rocks

Common and mostly cheaper

Found a used NP241 here in Utah for $50 (1988/1989) chevy

So, asking for input on this option. I need more information.
What steps are involved on mating the axle to the mounting flanges?
What needs to be done for disc brake mod?

thanks.

dougbert

pic 1, the 4-sp and TC together (is there a market for the TC?)
pic 2, the now (finally) empty engine space but still pre-wash
pic 3 post wash, but bad lighting MUCH better to work in there now

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The 14-bolt full floater is a beast, its cheap and easy to find, but you are right, all production FF 14s are 8-lug. For that reason, I went with the semi-floater. It can be had in six or eight lug, has 33-spline shafts and can also be had for cheap. Rotors from the front of a late 80s Chevy 4x4 pickup (NOT extra cab) along with calipers from an 88 Monte Carlo (fits a hundred other cars too) will do a nice job of slowing you down. In order to get the fluid volume to balance correctly between front and rear, you will want to switch to the larger 1" MC and front calipers from a late 80s, early 90s 4Runner. That's what I run and it works beautifully, (although I have no E-brake). Don't even think about the old Eldorado calipers, they don't work well at all and they are nearly impossible to find. Caliper mounting brackets can be had cheaply, try Advanced Four-Wheel Drive in Salt Lake, Randy stocks that stuff as well as spring pads to weld onto your axle of choice.
 
more after wash pics

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Your engine bay looks like mine! Hang in there, mine also seems like it is taking forever.

I used a wire wheel in a cordless drill on the rusty stuff, then painted over it, it turned out looking pretty good, (to me anyway).

Its also a great time to get the front axle fill plug out and replaced with a allen head plug. You can stand up and work on that feisty plug with the engine out.

Great work!
John
 
Having owned a 14bff in two Sub's I really don't want another one. They are HFS, but they are also mondo-heavy! My plan is to use the NP-241 and build a centered FF LC rear diff. At this point I don't know if the drive axles will be one piece like stock, or if I will use the FJ-80 drive plates and go with double splined drive axles.
 
Your engine bay looks like mine! Hang in there, mine also seems like it is taking forever.

I used a wire wheel in a cordless drill on the rusty stuff, then painted over it, it turned out looking pretty good, (to me anyway).

Its also a great time to get the front axle fill plug out and replaced with a allen head plug. You can stand up and work on that feisty plug with the engine out.

Great work!
John

Yeah, I literally HATE to look at the date of Post #1 - argh!

There still is 'oilly tar' like crude that the washer/degreaser just wouldn't take off but I can use a putty knife to dig it off with some effort.

Question I have is: Do I need to fully remove any prior paint that still is sticking to the frame or can I just scratch/rough it up a bit, prior to coating it?

my thoughts are the same on the wire wheel on my cordless as well and 3 full batteries per session. Planning on using Rust Bullet instead of POR-15, but have experience with neither of them.

As for the fill plug, what size allen head plug is it? That would save me determining that.

dougbert
 
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Having owned a 14bff in two Sub's I really don't want another one. They are HFS, but they are also mondo-heavy! My plan is to use the NP-241 and build a centered FF LC rear diff. At this point I don't know if the drive axles will be one piece like stock, or if I will use the FJ-80 drive plates and go with double splined drive axles.

I am still bouncing back and forth on my plan for TC and rear diff.
Doing the AA adapter for the nv4500 and the TLC TC still might be better for my skill set, to save me from "learning more stuff" about rear diffs, installation, etc.

The TLC diff is there and works great with a $1,000 air locker already installed. The only real work is the TC rebuild, which I would need to learn and do and the $600 adapter cost.

I am short of money and time, but time is the real hard part to come up with. Back to using the TLC TC and diff, would save time.

My brother asked me this week: Why don't you just buy the vehicle you want and not bother with all this rebuild work? He is 9 years older than I, and retired. I have a hobby now and no kids at home. Its my choice.

mmm. he doesn't understand

dougbert
 
Right now your fill plug is a 24 mm hex head, (stock), with a really shallow head that likes to round off. try a 15/16 socket for a tight fit on it, that is what I used to convince mine to come out.

To make it easier to take out next time, you can replace it with Toyota part number 90341-18021, with a allen head on it. I don't recall the size, I think it's 10mm maybe? It works on the drain and the fill plugs on both axles. MUCH easier to get out than the shallow head allen bolt.
 

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