Builds dougbert's future 350 swap: How much torque is too much? (1 Viewer)

[Elbert]

the one that says "weatherstrip adhesive" solely is the one that has been historically used by body shops for a very long time.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

You don't need weatherstrip adhesive for the window gaskets. If installed properly against a clean, smooth body surface and a proper lock-strip is used, they will not leak.

 

[norsk]

You don't need weatherstrip adhesive for the window gaskets. If installed properly against a clean, smooth body surface and a proper lock-strip is used, they will not leak.

Interesting. The strip I took off the top of the rear hatch required breaking the prior adhesive with a knife (very carefully). Thought I needed to re-apply some to hold that one. The bottom strip on the hatch did not have any. Used needle nose pliers and a knife to carefully remove the old clips without tearing the rubber. Once out, I use the pliers to grip the insert and carefully extract the clip from the rubber. Only torn 2 holes slightly.

Also I had purchased the strip clips prior, but need some more. For Reference the clips are:

Au-ve-co 20443 (67867-0C010), 25 count, Toyota Tundra 1999-on, works well

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/searchresults.asp?Search=20443

I used the whole box for both top and bottom strips on the hatch PLUS one old one.

I Ordered more.

The ole gaskets were dirty and a bit hard. So I used Zep 505 cleaner with a brush and they cleaned up very well, and became softer. I hope it only cleaned them and didn't damage them. Rinsed with lots of water. Re-attached to new hatch yesterday.

My "new" hatch has been identical to my OEM hatch (built June 1986) until I was working on the Hatch Release on the inside. Below is my OEM release position, note the offset from the cross member:

 

[norsk]

Hole centered in the strut:

Comparison between "new" on left and old on right. New has the cleaned strip:

Rear hatch window weatherstrip

The two cargo window weatherstrip:

 

[norsk]

Been working on the rear doors the past couple of days. Cleaned up the rust as best as I could along the bottom, and removed the old sealant inside the doors. Used the high speed wire brush and applied the rust converter acid last night. Then this morning, I applied the first coat of Rust Bullet to encapsulate any remaining rust. After drying then I will apply some tape and then the second coat, then later the Rust Bullet Shell Black top coat. Then put the doors on the rig. Another TODO task completed.

The black will be only across the bottom of the doors. The upper part of the doors are very healthy, so I will leave them alone.

this was the worst corner with rust, but not like some of the bad doors I have seen.

Also painted inside both doors. This should assist in some sound deadening as well

The bottoms were not that bad, but the rust was making headway. Cleaning off the rust, putting the rust acid converter and encapsulating the remainder "should" reduce future rust from moving fast.

Eventually I will be installing some ABS flat liners instead of the old panels, on the inside of the doors to cover the interiors.

Getting closer.

dougbert

 

[norsk]

couldn't play with the mistress last week as the wife wanted to do something for our 19th anniversary

But today, I installed the 2 rear seat doors and installed the right rear cargo window. It was difficult to install. Will photo the next one when I install it, now that I know what I am doing.

I incorrectly push the window rubber on the first time. I needed to turn it inside out to fit it the right way. Window was installed from the outside, first on the bottom, then used a paracord and silicone spray to pull the lip out, with some assistance from a screwdriver.


Pics of the doors and cargo window. 3M Ultra tint: 10% light tint on cargo, and 70% on the front door windows, no tint on back doors:

looking out:

driver's side, cargo NOT installed yet

Used WagonGears window felt/lock, here is the two ends butted together, center on the bottom of the window.

 

[norsk]

3 weeks later............

1 week to prep for vacation with family in the woods in NE Oregon
1 week to do vacation
1 week to de-brief and recover

Finally got back to the truck today.

left rear glass and its rubber mount. It took me 3 times to get it oriented right. The thick side of the rubber goes inside of the glass.

This is the outside Lock track of the rubber

the round, top of the rubbers goes on the inside. I used a paracord, lubed with silicone and inserted into the track that the window frame will fit.

Rubber all the way around the window

at this point I forgot to take pics of the insertion because I got busy

Fully inserted

 

[norsk]

close up of the corner

Toyota and other markings in the lower right corner in proper orientation

Overall pic of the installed window, with WagonGear's lock welting installed.

Also got the rear tail hatch mounted, but ran out of light in order to install its glass. For another day.

It is nice for the pile of parts to shrink and things get put back on the truck.

 

[norsk]

Well I am still alive and the truck is still waiting for me. I have finished up my 5.3L power train for my GMC K1500 and installed that today. I needed to get that installed and the hood on to button up the rig for the coming rains (I am outside you all know).

Attached are a couple of photos of the 5.3L, NV4500 and NP241C going it. Such a power train will work as well in a FJ-60. Well, not the NP241C

BTW: Windshield for the FJ-60 will be installed on thursday and it will be buttoned up as well. Pics of that to come.

The blue item is MACs Pivot adapter plate and LS adapter jig. WORKS great

My FJ-60 under the brown tarp

Adjusting the bolt to the FORWARD position moves the tail of the power train down, 35 degress is possible

Installed

 

[norsk]

Windshield installed in the FJ60 this morning. No more tarps!

Lots of dusty under the old tarp

Hood, doors and front fenders will be painted the "Brown Eyed Girl" color of Monstaliner

 

[Output Shaft]

This is way gnarly sh*t

 

[norsk]

This is way gnarly sh*t

yeah, old herculier, but found the high speed grinder takes it off fairly fast

then its good to cover.

 

[norsk]

Jake is starting on fixing the right rear quarter panel. He is not a body man, he says, but he did a great job on the roof and I believe it will be good on the quarter panels. When done, I will take some pics and post.

Also created a build thread for my GMC K1500 with 5.3L on a GM forum, noted in my sig

 

[norsk]

Right quarter panel is being worked on!!!!!

 

[norsk]

Oh soooo true

 

[norsk]

Jake got the right 'dog-leg' welded and the lower portion of the rear panel installed. I told him to do an overlap and not a butt-to-butt seam.

Smoothing still needed

He made the cut along the indentions, tack welded, will bondo the seam

overlapped yes, but this okay with me. Stronger IMHO and will fill it in

Needs to build 4x4labs bumper so we can see level of it and where to shorten the lower part of the quarter panel. That is OEM length, but I want the bottom of the panel to be higher than OEM

 

[cruisermatt]

Any updates? I strangely want to build a truck in a field after this build...

 

[norsk]

Any updates? I strangely want to build a truck in a field after this build...

appreciate the interest.

at the moment it is resting in 2 feet of snow, next to the 1984 K1500 pickup. I actually am working on assembling the 5.3L in the pickup now (after being sick for 3 weeks with bronchitis) since I put the parachute over the 5.3L engine to help keep me warm and it works.

I have wiring to still do on this FJ60, along with new BMW seats, stripping the Herculiner off to put on the Monstaliner, mounting the tailgate, some fixes here and there as well as that engine tick still. and a big LOL to the field draw upon you..

More to come as the weather improves in the coming weeks. I will take a pic or 2 of it in the snow

You can visit the 5.3L build via the link in my sig

dougbert

 

[norsk]

Any updates? I strangely want to build a truck in a field after this build...

well the snow is down. It was 2 feet deep just 3.5 weeks ago, here is a pic I took this morning. With the snow down and mud drying out, I can work more on the rig, although I will get the pickup going first. Have to move off this yard by mid April, for various reasons. Jake now has a shop closer in town. So many rigs are "leaving" by being taken out by their owners or other means. And yes that Black Tar Herculiner is ugly and will be removed in due time and repainted with Monstaliner

dougbert

PS: I have learned much about the 5.3L and the NV4500 that I put in the 84 K1500. I now have 2 NV4500s, one in the pickup and another I am going to rebuild to put in the pickup. Both have over 250k miles on them and need a rebuild. Still love my FJ60 and will get it going this spring

 

[norsk]

Got both trucks moved, by trailer, yesterday to the new yard/field. That took alot of effort and time. Need to borrow a genset to have electricity though for the soldering iron, lights, etc.

But actually got something done on the FJ60 as well. I had previously chased threads on the the rear tailgate after breaking a bolt in one of the latch holes. Got that cleared out and the threads are very happy to accept bolts now. Yet the holes that hold the tailgate folding support arms are loose. I assume that they were tight in order to hold the studs. Well, I guess now I will need to add some lock nuts on the inside, which should be easy as I have cut off the metal cover of the tailgate.