Builds dougbert's future 350 swap: How much torque is too much? (1 Viewer)

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While waiting for the beam torque wrench to show up on thursday, cleaned up the tranny case - finished some degreasing/de-dirting it first, then painted the tranny case tonight - got tired of looking at the rusty surface and painted it black:

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w/o flash

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with flash

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As previously mentioned, this is the original 4-speed being put back in to await some future time when it will be replaced with a 5-speed (sure hope they are still making those then) when it becomes necessary OR I get some money and desire.

In the meantime, it will look redneck "purty"

dougbert
 
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The torque wrench came a day early, so I went out and measured the pre-load. Spec is 11 to 21 inch-lbs, and mine came in at 16 in-lbs. ALL is good.

pic of the 6 inch tool. Stopped at OReillys and bough a 3/8 female to 1/2 inch male adapter ($4 - on the left), since the 34mm socket is 1/2" drive and the torque wrench is 3/8"..

IMG_20140618_101906_819.jpg


and on the shaft, just prior to measurement:

IMG_20140618_101948_877.jpg

took 40 seconds to measure it all and my need for the tool was complete. It will go in the toolbin awaiting another TC rebuild - lol

Will finish the re-assembly of the transfer case tonight - FINALLY! - and store it awaiting the Ranger.

Just ordered my pressure plate:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIQP72/?tag=ihco-20

Centerforce pressure plate.jpg


So leaves just ONE last major component to get to finish the power train:

One source I found is http://www.summitracing.com/parts/add-760024m-27/overview/

Ranger ADD-760024M-27.jpg


dougbert
 
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The torque wrench came a day early, so I went out and measured the pre-load. Spec is 11 to 21 inch-lbs, and mine came in at 16 in-lbs. ALL is good.

Nice. Are those the measurements with just the original shim reinstalled? Or did you have to end up adding/replacing shims in order to hit specs?
 
Nice. Are those the measurements with just the original shim reinstalled? Or did you have to end up adding/replacing shims in order to hit specs?


same shim reinstalled. I wasn't going to order others until I got my current value. I can say: Joy is had here

dougbert
 
What power level are you going for with this motor? Those ranger overdrives are only rated for 420lb/ft.
 
What power level are you going for with this motor? Those ranger overdrives are only rated for 420lb/ft.

Yeah, when I was researching this, I found that limit on the spec sheet, so I called AA on this and said I would be in the 450 ft-lb range and the tech guy pointed out on the sheet:

SPECIFICATIONS:
Unit Weight ........................................80 lbs.
Torque Capacity ............................ 420 ft./lbs
G.V.W. Rating ....................................25,000 lbs.
Oil Capacity........................................1.65quarts

http://www.advanceadapters.com/downloads/Ranger_Overdrive7.pdf


Yes, 420 ft-lbs on 25,000 lbs capacity.

He asked what my vehicle weighed and I told him 5300 lbs - NO PROBLEM was the answer. Since the vehicle weight is 1/5 of the GVW rating, I have spare space on the Torque limit above the 420 number. They had been building this for decades and had seen this before. As long as I don't go hauling some big arse trailer around I will be fine. I have pondered what the torque limit is on the split case transfer - maybe less than 420? My goal is to RARELY go WOT on this rig.

The tech said it is big difference to pull 420 ft-lbs on 25,000 lb rig versus a 500 ft-lb on a 5,000 lb rig. The product will handle it. Well, that was the VERBAL information, anyway.

Alask60 built a 383 SBC FJ60 with a Ranger and he has been a mentor on this to me

dougbert
 
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Okay got the TC buttoned up, just a few remaining steps to document

TF-31 Steps 23 and 24: Removed the rear output shaft bearing retainer, put the gasket in, sealed the bolt threads and put the retainer back on:

IMG_20140618_200724_735[1].jpg


Step 25 Installed the front and rear companion flanges - NOTE: They are different, the rear flange has a larger collar than the front and won't fit on the front - I mistakenly tried that

front on and staked

IMG_20140618_203011_029[1].jpg


rear on and staked

IMG_20140618_203021_037[1].jpg


Step 26 Rear tranny output shaft lock nut on but not yet staked - did that after photo

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did step 27 of install power TakeOff Cover, but no photo

Step 28 Installed transfer casecover no. 2

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Did steps 29, 30, 31, 32 and 33 without pictures

Step 34 Installed mechanically front drive shift lever

IMG_20140618_210346_974[1].jpg


And the transfer case is back together and rebuilt.

Next pic is the knuckle rubber cap, which is split, on the H/L lever.
Anyone have an idea to better protect that?

IMG_20140618_210829_119[1].jpg

That sub-project is now done

dougbert
 
While waiting for the piggy bank to fill up for the Ranger purchase, I will be renewing ALL the brakes. I had installed a Taco truck MC a while back.

First up, the left front has a lug which is broken off by the tire store some time ago. I have 6 OEM lugs from SOR ready to go for the left, but I have also picked up an after market set for the right front.

Question:
Anyone know if the after market sets are much weaker than the OEM?
Should I have done the OEM set for the right as well?

Plan is:

New rotor
New fully loaded caliper (enhanced to 95 4Runner set)
New brake line from diff to caliper
New hardline break line on the front diff since the old one had a crush point on it
New seals
New backing plate eliminator
Re-use the bearings as I replaced them a few years ago, when I had the front end done.

PAINT STUFF

dougbert
 
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I have been following the pattern set by this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/4r...-and-backing-plate-eliminator-install.281660/

some youtube videos I found:

musical videos:




jonesysautoclub videos:

33 min http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFWWEmLHBN0
31 min http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_-rJRpjVEs

Parts ordered are listed in Post #1 under Brake Renewing.

Here are my pics of my left front (hasn't rolled for 19 months now, 238k miles prior to that - a wee bit rusty and used up):

Notice broken stud

IMG_20140712_172533_560[1].jpg


IMG_20140712_172613_826[1].jpg


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As boots did on his thread (which GLTHFJ60 referred to), I added a simplified Table of Contents on my Post 1 of this thread, which links to various major sub-projects in this thread. Hope it proves useful

dougbert
 
Spindle dis-assembly begins, hub off

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Nuts off - darn, shaking hands

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rotor and hub off

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inner bearing and inner oil seal

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Pressing the lugs out. The broken lug just needed a little bolt on top of it and pressed out just fine.

IMG_20140716_210801_403[1].jpg
 
All lugs off, and the 2 bolts. Trying to figure out which parts come apart. So much red.

Put PB Blaster on the seam to let it soak for the night

IMG_20140716_211504_740[1].jpg
 
Nice work on the Table. It will come in handy finding that one bolt size you can't remember that you used 5 years ago. I've done that a couple of times.
 
Boots - thanks, it has helped me already. Hey, I was born in Portland, grew up in Tigard/Tualatin. Loved to ride the roads up there. Last time I left was in 1991.
---

I didn't quite know how to break the rotor from the spindle, but asked LC guru Jake and he offered a very simple solution:

place a piece of wood on the inner bearing housing, place on table and do a whack-a-rotor sequence side to side and viola' rotor came off.
Still think the OB Blaster helped some.

Question on painting though: Since that spindle connects to the rotor, I assume I should use caliper paint on it, due to the heat, would that be right?

dougbert
 
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well, good news for me and the 60: Just go an unexpected bonus at work and I will be able to order the Ranger far, far sooner than I expected.
That has been the more recent hurdle in faster completion, so once that gets here, I will assemble it to my tranny/TC and then move the engine over to the barn and finally be paying Jake for installing the powertrain, install front mounts, etc.

I have been smiling a lot this morning

dougbert
 
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Dis-assembled and cleaned the hub locker

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Got the hub off

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down to the axle ball

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some really rough rust pitting on the back side

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painted hub locker and pivot hub

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better view of the rust pitting on the back side.
Also painted the end of the axle after cleaning up mud/debris that what there

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Pressing in the last lug

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all the lugs now in.
Looks MUCH better than earlier pic of old disc and hub
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