Builds dougbert's future 350 swap: How much torque is too much? (6 Viewers)

[norsk]

I went with the hefty timing cover for the CAM button and the ability to swap CAMs down the road
without having to dealing with breaking the pan seal. All trade offs for sure.

I suppose I will have various options in a parts bin over time. Cost some, but pales in comparison
with the overall cost of the power train - will be over $8,000 for the engine/tranny/TC when I am done as it is. What's a few hundred more. Just write more lines of software - lol

dougbert

 

[ntsqd]

I'd give some serious thought to how important it is to keep the stock length drive-shafts. Not being able to use a clutch fan would be the deal breaker for me. That floor opening for the shifter would be modified or moved in a heartbeat and a call made to Jesse about drive-shafts.

 

[norsk]

well, going to wait until we get the power train in the rig and make some measurements, then look at options.

thanks

dougbert

 

[norsk]

Well, been busy and haven't been able to work on the truck due to wet weather and other activities BUT was able to order new Dizzy from MSD, new clutch disc and got the fuel line installed between pump and carb.
Took several attempts to get the right parts in order to get the pressure gauge installed.

Today had enough time between rain drops to install the fuel tank and get the new hoses connected back up. That thing is a PITA to install.


One question I have on the dizzy: I have a space between the dizzy collar and the deck of the intake, about 1/16th. I don't think that is normal.

Anyone with a cause and solution to that?

thanks

dougbert

pics of the fuel line:

pic of clutch disc and dizzy:

 

[Elbert]

distributor base should sit flush on the intake. Does the new distributor have the right gear to match your year motor/camshaft. The main issue in general when the distributor does not sit down flush is that the distributor is not in time properly at # 1 cylinder TDC / base timing.

You might also make sure your fuel hose from pump to carb clears your accessories

 

[norsk]

Yeah, I got the #1 aligned right, the gears are right, and the dizzy slips down just fine but as seen it stops short.
Will rotate the pump 180 and re-insert.

interesting "feature"

ditto on the fuel line, was watching that with the alternator

dougbert

 

[JohninFla]

Doug

Check the oil pump too. The distributor base plugs into it, maybe it's not compatible? It should sit flush to the intake.

Looks great! Get it in the cruiser!!

John

 

[Elbert]

The dist. can be off just by a little bit...and not sit down flush with the intake. If you are on TDC @ 1...you just need to screw around with potentially just moving the crank a little bit...or sometimes you can nudge the oil pump with a long flat tip screwdriver. Or you simply may need to make a very minor clocking adjustment when installing the dist.

I taken the dist out on a 5.7 multiple times and sometimes they sit right back down as they should and other times its like 50 tries and then finally it goes.

I doubt you would be 180 off if you followed the correct timing procedure.

 

[norsk]

the male "slot" of the dizzy fully engaged with the female "slot" of the extension rod.
I did rotate the extension rod 180 (not the crank/cam) degrees and then put a long screw driver and tapped the extension rod with a hammer and it seems to drop down a bit. Then put the dizzy back on and the gap is now gone. The rod must have not been fully inserted into the connection coupler.

fits flush now.
thanks

dougbert

 

[norsk]

Doug

Check the oil pump too. The distributor base plugs into it, maybe it's not compatible? It should sit flush to the intake.

Looks great! Get it in the cruiser!!

John

you don't know how bad I want to. But gotta come up with the Ranger $$, you know I got a wife limit per pay day. lol. Slowly but surely. This week I will be getting the TC rebuild kit and rebuild that TC to near-new condition.

dougbert

 

[norsk]

Just bought the TC rebuild kit from Kurt at Curiser Outfitters. Reading the FSM section on TCs now.

 

[JohninFla]

Doug

Take a bunch of pics ! I might have to do mine!

I wish you success!

John

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Just bought the TC rebuild kit from Kurt at Curiser Outfitters. Reading the FSM section on TCs now.

View attachment 898754

Thanks again!

 

[norsk]

got my misc bolts back from the plating company, covered in Zinc

looks far better than they used to

now to begin putting this jigsaw puzzle back together again

dougbert

 

[ander42b]

Norsk,

That hardware looks Awsome !!!!!! Where did you get it done????? How much did it cost you???? What was the procedure for shipping ????

 

[norsk]

Norsk,

That hardware looks Awsome !!!!!! Where did you get it done????? How much did it cost you???? What was the procedure for shipping ????

I went to a place in Provo Utah. They have another location in Logan Utah, which does the zinc plating in Clear (silver), Yellow or Black.
I physically dropped it off in Provo. I just read at their website no car parts or personal items in Provo, so they did me a favor in taking it to Logan as they have someone who goes between the two. Shipping back to me was $21. Packed in a 1/2 cubit foot box, soft foam then stuffed with paper filler. $65 for the plating. Total $86.27. I think the $65 is a minimum and don't know how much more that would have covered.

Cache Valley Plating
PO Box 703
Logan Ut 84323

435-755-8000
435-755-8574 FAX
www.cvplating.com

dougbert

 

[norsk]

been working on the rig in the mornings, while it is cool and working at work with good AC in the evening - works best that way for this slow body.

Completed the following:

1) Re-installed the heat shields above the exhaust/converter path
2) Ran rear diff vent hose along PS rail to firewall and secured with clamps to spare nut holes in frame and firewall
3) Put new protective sleeve on Airlocker air line from rear diff along PS rail to firewall
4) installed the fuel fill up protective shield
5) installed some of the newly plated brackets back on the rig

Lots of puzzle pieces to fit together, while reading the TC manual and awaiting help to move the tranny/TC combo inside the shop. Just have
to go there when others are around.

dougbert

 

[norsk]

Started the TC disassembly this morning and will continue tomorrow (sat) afternoon and the mornings next week. Jake did ask why I was rebuilding. Well there is 239k miles on it and it was leaking, and was caked in grime/dirt and oil before I cleaned it up. The current appearance is very good compared to what I started with.

Some great other threads with better pictures listed here:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/transfer-assembly-with-pictures.487813/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/domsmith’s-h55-build-thread…-sbc-fj40.156735/#post-2186609
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/split-case-rebuild.188968/page-3

Decided to take pics of the various steps for my own use and logging on the thread. Might be useful for others. For my own sanity, I put groups of parts/nuts together in zip lock bags so they can be put back together as a group. Interestingluy Jake indicates he can could a rebuild in a hour or two, but he has done several and is doing one also today in the insertion of a H55 rig from California. Yeah, the guy drove it all the way up here to have that done, the axle rebuilt and exhaust fixup.

What I started with last summer:

After cleaning last summer.
Drained the oil and now on the table removing the control lever.

FSM starting on page TF-12, 28 steps of disassembly:

Step 2, followed by 3, 5 and 6. (Gotta get me one of those small magnetic tools - used grease on a screw driver to get the balls out at step 5)

My young friend Ted doing Step 7a and 7b

Step 7c

Un-staking the nut was harder than I thought, to bend them back up.
Used an air gun to remove the nut, which occurred very easily.
Used a 36mm socket but it was a bit too big yet worked fine to spin the nut off. Could not find a 35 mm socket in the 4 tool box sets at the barn. The 34mm was too small.

Only had an hour this morning before heading off to income generating work. More tomorrow afternoon.

Saturday progress:

Step 8, remove front and rear companion flanges, front shown

dougbert

 

[norsk]

Step 10 Measure IDLER Gear Thrust Clearance - all is good .015 inch, within specs

Step 11 Remove Rear Output Shaft bearing retainer

Took off the speedometer gear and spacer BUT also found a shim there as well. FSM didn't mention this. This was the first of several things that the FSM didn't mention NOR document. I had to choose some solutions going forward. I guess I was allowed myself to believe that the FSM covered all the bases. It doesn't

Step 12 Remove the IDLER gear shaft lock plate

Step 13 Remove Transfer Rear Case. Also documented where the wiring harness rings were placed

 

[norsk]

Step 14 Remove Rear output shaft assembly with shift fork and shift fork shaft.

This is where it got interesting. The IDLER shaft stuck in the rear case and as I pulled the case backward, the Front of the IDLER shaft dropped and the gears then the bearings slid forward and on to the table, and the rear output shaft almost fell out too.

This was a flurry of parts dropping. OH!

Rear case removed, lots of tarnish. Got to use several of the towels I bought to clean up the gear oil.

Skipping to Step 19, to save and arrange the IDLER parts

Back to Step 16 and 17 (18 Is only on ATM)

No gear puller needed, the bearing, gears and spacer all slipped right off by hand (Worn?)
I organized them by position and direction on the towel, so as to not screw them up.

Step 20 and 21, rear output shaft front bearing retainer slid out by hand as well. Clutch sleeve and fork came out easy too.