Do Electric Motors Weaken Over Time? Rear Hatch Motor Actuator Lock Q. (1 Viewer)

[bicycleagent003]

Hey Mudders,

My rear hatch lock actuator motor works fine when I detach it from the linkage to the handle and lock mechanism. That is, it throws the little lever attached to the motor itself. It works reliably when disconnected from the linkage. When I hook it up to the linkage, it seems to try and throw the linkage, but can't quite do it. I've lubricated the linkage well, and I can throw it with my finger with very little effort. This is a newer motor which I got last year from another Mud member. I'm just thinking these little motors are getting tired out. Is that a thing? I don't have a lot of expertise with little electric motors, I thought it would either work or not, but I think this thing is working poorly/weakly.

Anyone have a suggestion? I'm reluctant to buy another motor from another 20 year old truck. Has anyone figured out a newer Toyota motor which is a direct bolt in? Can I take out the little motor out of the housing itself and put in another 12V motor from ???

Thanks
Russell

 

[mct75]

I'm 30% sure you just need to clean the switch contacts.

 

[george_tlc]

Just to be safe, I'd measure the voltage directly across the actuator when you try to activate it to ensure you get a solid/reliable 12V (battery voltage) going to it UNDER LOAD. At least you'll verify that it isn't a voltage drop on wire/connectors/switches or poor ground etc.

cheers,
george.

 

[Squash]

Probably a crack in the plastic lever which attaches to door lock actuator.
Splines are slipping, you could remove the motor and lever in order to repair.
I would drill a hole through both and insert a spring pin.

 

[bicycleagent003]

Thanks for the tips, guys. How would I measure the voltage under load? Strip a bit of the wires going in an out (there are only 2) and put a multi-meter lead on each wire? Cleaning the contacts and inspecting for a crack will be next if the load test shows 12V under load.

 

[george_tlc]

I have a VERY sharp set of tips for my meter - easy for it to pierce the insulation near where the wires go into connectors etc.

cheers,
george.

 

[LC4LIFE]

Hey Mudders,

My rear hatch lock actuator motor works fine when I detach it from the linkage to the handle and lock mechanism. That is, it throws the little lever attached to the motor itself. It works reliably when disconnected from the linkage. When I hook it up to the linkage, it seems to try and throw the linkage, but can't quite do it. I've lubricated the linkage well, and I can throw it with my finger with very little effort. This is a newer motor which I got last year from another Mud member. I'm just thinking these little motors are getting tired out. Is that a thing? I don't have a lot of expertise with little electric motors, I thought it would either work or not, but I think this thing is working poorly/weakly.

Anyone have a suggestion? I'm reluctant to buy another motor from another 20 year old truck. Has anyone figured out a newer Toyota motor which is a direct bolt in? Can I take out the little motor out of the housing itself and put in another 12V motor from ???

Thanks
Russell

I have the same issue as the OP.....was there any fix to this problem? I am tempted to just get a new actuator though.

 

[Rifleman]

I have a VERY sharp set of tips for my meter - easy for it to pierce the insulation near where the wires go into connectors etc.

cheers,
george.

I've used these Fluke test tips to test with, they do a great job of piercing the insulation, and since the hole they pierce is so small the insulation is self healing, they are rated for up to 10 amps.

Fluke AC89 Heavy Duty Insulation Piercing Test Clip

• 

Key features

• Single probe pierces 0.25 to 1.5 mm insulated wire
• Small pin allows self-healing of the insulation
• 1000 V, 10 A maximum
• One year warranty

 

[mudgudgeon]

If the motor tests ok on the bench, or with no load, and has no strength under load, you may have short circuit within the motor windings.

Time for a new one

 

[JeepinPete]

I replaced the lift gate on my truck last year due to rust. A few days later, I noticed the lift was not locking. Figured I missed a plug or something. When I went to investigate, I could hear the actuator doing its thing, it just wasn't locking the gate. I swapped the original actuator to my truck into the liftgate, and the problem was solved. So yes, they can go bad in a not fully dead sort of way.

 

[Heckraiser]

Mine works about 35% of the time. I just hit the lock/unlock button as many times as needed for it to take

 

[Izeloz]

Same problem as the OP. Mine used to work most of the time, then some of the time, and then not at all. I have removed, cleaned, lubed, bench-tested (but with no load) to no avail. I tried hunting the ground point but couldn't figure out which ground point the circuit uses, so I just cleaned ALL the ground points I could find. I also took apart all the plugs in the D-pillar that I could find and cleaned the contacts with a needle file (some were fairly corroded). No effect. Any idea where I could get a NEW actuator (aftermarket is fine)? Also, mine is a '91, but I assume the door lock actuator is the same for all years. Does anyone know for sure?

 

[Tools R Us]

They can be fixed, sometimes, but at ~$45, hardly worth it? AISIN DLT088

 

[bicycleagent003]

I have the same issue as the OP.....was there any fix to this problem? I am tempted to just get a new actuator though.

I agree with Tools' point right above this post, I think it's worth it to just replace it with AISIN DLT088.

The fix for my rear hatch lock actuator motor was to put a small amount of epoxy on the plastic arm which was spinning freely on the small metal shaft it's attached to inside the motor. It took me forever, and lots of Mud searching, to figure that out. The motor moves with a fair amount of force, and I think the little plastic arm inside the actuator just gives out over time. Mine has worked fine now for a couple years, but I spent way too much time diagnosing this issue and taking the old motor out and putting it back in (repeatedly during troubleshooting).

If I had it to do over again I'd just buy the motor. It's the same motor for the left side rear door, per Google-fu.

 

[JLH911]

I have the same issue as the OP.....was there any fix to this problem? I am tempted to just get a new actuator though.

You'd be better off buying new. I just installed a new actuator today for my d/s rear door. I had tried cleaning and what not, but the brushes and other stuff wear out.