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Cutting fenders - what to use?

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by 78crzr, May 16, 2003.

  1. 78crzr

    78crzr

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    What is the tool of choice for cutting rear fenders of a '78 FJ40 for fender flares? How difficult is the project? I'm under a pretty tight time constraint so I checked with a local off-road shop and they want $175.00 to cut and install flares. Seems a little steep to me?!! If it can be done in under a few hours I can probably make the time. What is everyone's experience with it? What are the pitfalls?

    Thanks
     
  2. moralien

    moralien

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    Eric... you could pay somebody to do this for you or you could just...
    [​IMG]

    Come out this weekend and meet with LSLC houston and we will cure you of the Bling Bling syndrome :D
     
  3. Gumby

    Gumby Supamod Staff Member s-Moderator

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    Time and effort depends on the tool you plan to use and the exactitude of the cut. I would be happy to cut your fenders for $175. :D

    Sawzall is electric. Easy to use. Very easy to distort the sheetmetal and make miscuts.

    Die grinder with cut-off wheel if you have air. Loud and sparky. Makes a nice clean cut.

    Sheet metal shearing tool is also air. Very snazzy. Makes nice clean cuts, easy to turn corners. Unlike the above two tools it has no other use.

    Plasma cutter. Also requires air. Way super nifty. If you can afford to buy one just to cut your fenders I want to be your friend. :D
     
  4. moralien

    moralien

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    If none of the above tools are at your disposal, the cheapest can be had in the die grinder. Simple as go to Sears plop about 50 bucks down and voila. You don't need air (if you get an electric one) and it will still be useful in the long run. I only mentioned the sawzall because most should have them at their disposal to begin with. It's not that bad if you get a good blade, tape your work then take your time. But like Gumby said there is a much better show with the die grinder. Better to get an electric one though IMHO :)
     
  5. Guest

    Guest Guest

    But the air ones sound so much cooler, and your neighbors love it when you use it all night long.
     
  6. moralien

    moralien

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    Air does sound cooler, but it takes a lot o air to spin a wheel at lets say 15,ooo rpm. If you don't have a big tank you will be waiting on that sucker to fill forever. Beside once you get that sucker ripping the real show is in all the sparklies :G
     
  7. 78crzr

    78crzr

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    Thanks for all of the feeback.  That's what I had hoped the answer would be so I'm off to buy a new compressor(need an excuse to buy one anyway) and a sheet metal cutting tool or die grinder.  Can't quite justify the Plasma cutter - yet!  :D  I think with a couple of hours and a six pack of Shiner Bock and I'll be in business.

    Moralien and Frismanis - I'm going to try to make it out Saturday but I may be in the middle of about 4 different Cruiser projects getting ready for the Tree's Ranch Run.  I may just have to come down without the Cruiser.  :-/

    Is anyone else from Houston going to the Tree's?
     
  8. rocrawler

    rocrawler

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    The sawzall is your friend. :D
     
  9. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

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    My little Northern Tool air die grinder spins at 20,000 (max is 25k) on my 45 gal Ingersoll Rand air compressor for a good while time 'fore the compressor cycles. I don't use anything electric anymore, its all air, the stuff lasts a lifetime :D.
     
  10. nuclearlemon

    nuclearlemon not an addict Moderator

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    0.Re: Cutting fenders - what to use?

    tried sawzall...hated it ...don't have air grinder yet (but i got a 60gln tank :D ), so i used electric grinder with cutoff wheel...worked great.
     
  11. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Re: 0.Cutting fenders - what to use?

    Sawzall is for rough cuts, and then follow with the die grinder for the *bling* factor.

    Most hate body work, but it is sooo much easier than engine work, well, at least if you don't care about the looks of the body work...
     
  12. Guest

    Guest Guest

    this just hit me... this thread reminds me of the all time greatest cult classic "Slapshot"

    "What are you doing to the bus?"
    "We're making it look mean!!!"

    Try doing your body work with an axe :eek:
     
  13. offcamber40

    offcamber40

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    I used an electric Dewalt 4 1/2" grinder w/ a cutoff wheel and it worked great. Used a grinding wheel to clean it up so it wasnt so sharp.. When I installed my aluminum side panels, I found that the cut-off wheel worked particulary well through the softer metal.. I also used a dremel on the aluminum stuff to cut out the rear markers and the gas lid cover.. Just remember not to overcut the fenders. Hold the flare in place and trace out the internal edging.. You will also have to drill some holes.. I used pop-rivets to attach mine, but wish I had used sheet metal screws or something else so I could get them off again if I had too.. Good luck and happy cutting!
     
  14. 73lndcrsr

    73lndcrsr SILVER Star

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    I used an air reciprocating saw. It worked great, very manuvarable for the curves with very clean cuts.
     
  15. axlechassis

    axlechassis

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    harbor freight has a nice little air body saw for $40.00. Easy to use. Sawzall is great for things like cutting a nasty tub off. :beer:
     
  16. Chef

    Chef

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    I looove my hypertherm 380 plasma ;) I trimmed the nose off my front fenders today in about 30 seconds each, no more swamper fouls at full compression. Whatever tool you use, mark off you cut with white out and look real hard at it first, make sure you like it. It's harder to put it back than cut it off. Also, if you can clamp down a piece of 2"x 3/16 flat stock to run against you likely have a straighter, smoother cut than just eyeballin' and freehandin'...Enjoy whacking your rig: sheet metal is just innocence waiting to be lost!
     
  17. Junk

    Junk

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    No s*** man. The 380 is the tool to have. Heck, maybe I should haul mine out to IL just to hack away at Gumby's junk! :flipoff2: