Cummins 4bt into my FJ60 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 28, 2012
Threads
10
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633
Location
Jackson, Wyoming
Hi,
New to the forum game. but, I'm putting a 4bt into my 87 FJ60 and I'm going to need some advice. Right now I have a fuel injected 383 stroker with a roller cam, an Advance Adapters Ranger Torque splitter and an H55 transmission. I would like to keep everything but the 383 stroker. I know I have to read the threads to find the info that I need, but I'm posting my cry for help first, so maybe someone will point me to a few short cuts. At the start, here's what I'm interested in:
I need the adapter plate to join the 4bt to my chevy bellhousing. Does anyone know a source for these? I hear Cummins wants a kidney for one.
Where do I find a good solid, economical remanufactured turocharger? Is there such thing?
I hear I can get about 170 horsepower and 400-425 ft/lbs of torque out of a 4bt, how do I do that? Is there a manual that will tell me how?
Does anyone know where to get an affordable manual? I keep seeing them for $110. If I have to pay I have to pay, but I don't want to.
What oil do I put in the crankcase?
Can I use the Battery I have now to start it, or do I have to get something better?
That's what I can think to ask right off the bat. If any of you think I sould know somehting, let fly, I'm open to any and all ideas and advice.
If I can figure out how, I will post updates with pictures of the project.
Thanks for reading.
 
A guy in town has a 4bt in his 60 and he's getting around 30 mpg. Plus the 383 never performed the way I wanted it to. I don't want a burner.
 
you want the 5 speed plus the torque splitter and then you are going to have to run an adapter to mate the engine with the torque splitter ..right? Is your torque spliiter setup for over drive or "under drive"?
 
Elbert said:
you want the 5 speed plus the torque splitter and then you are going to have to run an adapter to mate the engine with the torque splitter ..right? Is your torque spliiter setup for over drive or "under drive"?

It is set for overdrive.
 
Have you ever driven a 4bt? I would at least try to test drive one before you drop some serious coin to do that. It seems like a lot of rigs pop up in the classifieds that have 4bt swaps... call me crazy but that seems odd to me. One guess as to why would be.. that people THINK it's a cool idea, then are let down by the finished product due to noise, performance, or not living up to the MPG #'s.

You could take the coin you would use for the diesel swap and just go do something cool like travel in it.

Not trying to talk you out of it or anything ;)... just playing devils advocate!

Hey!!!! POST PICTURES OF THAT 383!!!!
 
Wyo, I too have an interest in doing this.. I have a buddy that worked for Cummins in Rock Springs as a master mech for several years.. He knows how to get the power out of the 6BTs for sure.. 1100 HP and 800 ft/lb torque in his ride.

He has a source for the 4BT cores and parts for very reasonable prices out of Denver, CO. He has told me that he has gotten 185 plus HP and 475 ft/lb torque from a 4BT.. IDK if this is true, but I suppose it's possible if you know the tricks.

I see alot of these motor builds in Salt Lake and Denver for sale as well. I'm not discouraged by it by any means. I think that there aren't that many people that know how to properly get what they want out of a diesel, they see it or hear about it and think its obtainable QUICK, but when they dive in without a good knowledge base or resource and hit a snag they get discouraged and sell the project.

Great resources here in the diesel forum or 4BTswaps.com.

Have fun with the swap and I'm hoping I'll be along shortly.
 
I would make sure to understand some mitigation for vibration and noise...
 
I agree with dbleon. Seems like a lot of these conversions end up in the classifieds. I would try and find a MUD member with this swap and get some honest answers. Also you will need at least a 4" lift in order to make it fit.
 
One main thing that people dont think about when it comes to the isb ( 4bt ) is that they are mainly used for industrial applications that are set to run a one rpm. They are balanced differently than one for an automotive application. Not sure where every engine found for swaps are coming from, I know they are coming from frito lay trucks etc. But I wouldnt be surprised if some are found on the back of a wood chipper or in a generator...thus it sucking horn for a swap
 
4btwaps.com.. Then youtube it. Notice the noise is a common factor.. Look at all the options.


30 miles per gallon? I'm skeptical as guys with 2WD trucks with really low gear ratios are boasting those numbers. If you are doing it for fuel savings then buy a TDI volkswagen.. 4bt's might be easier to find in some areas vs. others. The Isuzu is a good option as well. Do the research before you start spending money. Most will tell you it ended up more expensive than planned unless they found a donor rig and just swapped the whole drive train.

There are guys leaning towards the 6bt as they are quieter and easier to find..
 
4btwaps.com.. Then youtube it. Notice the noise is a common factor.. Look at all the options.


30 miles per gallon? I'm skeptical as guys with 2WD trucks with really low gear ratios are boasting those numbers. If you are doing it for fuel savings then buy a TDI volkswagen.. 4bt's might be easier to find in some areas vs. others. The Isuzu is a good option as well. Do the research before you start spending money. Most will tell you it ended up more expensive than planned unless they found a donor rig and just swapped the whole drive train.

There are guys leaning towards the 6bt as they are quieter and easier to find..

Great points... the Isuzu does seem like a better overall option. Never driven either personally.

I think the hangup with the 6bt is it may be too much for the rest of the truck ie. frame, axles, etc.

They are undoubtedly a sweet motor! But they too require a significant lift (SOA).
 
If you keep a 6BT stock the Toyota drivetrain will hold up as long as you don't wheel too hard. There are a few people running 6BT's with axle upgrades.

But if you plan on doing any power modifications to that engine, and it is super easy to get 300 Hp at the rear wheels, you better be ready to swap in some stronger running gear because even the overbuilt Toyota axles and transfercase won't last long with 600+ Ft-lbs at 1700 RPM. A 6BT is a lot smoother running due to the fact that being a inline 6 it is balanced naturally.

There are a couple nice swaps with 4BTs though, take the time to read through Boots build thread its a very good reference. If you want to do the swap do it because you love the smell and sound of a diesel engine, not for mileage or to be different.

I have a feeling a bunch of people did the swap to be "cool" but then realized they really weren't that into diesels.
 
I've owned two 4BT powered wagons (62 and now an 80). I can tell you that you will never get 30 MPG. The best you'll get on the highway is low 20's (20-22 MPG) and you'll probably average 16-18 around town depending on how you drive.

Regarding the 4BT/Chevy adapter, you can find some in the 4BTswaps.com classifieds section from time to time. These come off of Frito Lays type box vans.

Lastly, 4BT's are getting more expensive and harder to find. Your best bet, in terms of performance, price, and availability, is going with a 6BT. I've driven an 80 with a 6BT and NV4500 5speed and really liked it.
 
why the lift for it to fit? we talking body lift or what?

just curious as i may have a donor rig as well in the near future.
 
why the lift for it to fit? we talking body lift or what?

just curious as i may have a donor rig as well in the near future.

You need 4" of lift to clear the oil pan on the motor, its gotta be a suspension lift. A body lift wouldn't add clearance above the axle and even if it did work would look ridiculous.
 
The more lift you have the better, there have been a couple of people running minimum lift who have had their oil pan massaged by the front axle when the suspension bottomed out.
 
Picture of the 383...and more.

Here is a picture of the 383. And the second picture also addresses Stevo's concerns. If you look at the fram you can see how I re-fabricated the spring hangers to get a lot of lift without the SOA. I've got lots of lift. I think I will have to get stiffer OME front leaf springs, though.
DSCN0152.jpg
rebuild95.jpg
 

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