Could use some help with dual battery setup. (1 Viewer)

[JCruse]

I finally started on my dual battery setup today (Blue Sea SI-ACR + big switch) and have been having a hard time with the layout. Today I mounted the ACR unit with two trips to the store for the right screws, and then realized it wont work out the way I have it.
I know the switch is going on the firewall, but then I have the main unit, two circuit breakers, an LVD unit and a 6 position fuse box to mount. I've seen a million circuit diagrams online but no good layout diagrams, especially for an 80. Specifically a '97 80. I'd just like the layout to be smart, neat, and efficient. To that end I've got plenty of 1 AWG cable, connectors, loom and braided sleeve, plus a big ass 16 ton hydraulic crimper.

 

[greentruck]

Here's a couple of pics showing how I did our 97. Most was crammed in between the back of the AUX battery case and the front of the air cleaner.

More

 

[danthman114]

Go check out slee off-road tech section. They have a section on dual Batt setup

 

[Cruiserdrew]

The circuit diagram in the package shows how to run the wires, but not where to mount. If you just want to mount the ACR, it fits well on the fender between the #2 battery box and the air cleaner. on my 80, that's all I did and did not use the switch.

On my 60, I did the whole set up, but to do that I had to build in shelf over the fender to mount the acr, the switch, the fuse to the inside fuse box and the ground buss.

Your circuit breakers for the big cables need to be right at the batteries, so probably mounted in some way to the box will be best.

THe 6 position fuse box for your new circuits fits very well under the passenger seat-there's ametal plate covering side of the rear heater fan-I mounted the fuse panel there. It's out of the way but easy to access.

 

[greentruck]

I was up way too late, so here's some additional notes prompted by Andrew's cogent comments.

I used fuses instead of circuit breakers. The one on the AUX line is visible on the aluminum bracket. The fuse for the primary line is in front of it at the bottom of the cubby hole that people often stick a couple of bottles of oil in; they still fit.

The AUX charge circuit breaker is mounted just in front of the XRC control box

My Hellroaring isolater is attached to the back of the AUX case, just barely visible.

The Slee washer bottle relocation kit is obvious.

Lines from the Blue Sea switch (mounted on its own AL bracket off the inside of the fender) are loomed together and run downwards and out to the winch as can be seen in the one pic.

The cabling from the primary battery runs through the space in front of and above the radiator, accessed by unbolting the top radiator crossmember.

 

[JCruse]

Wow so much great info, where to start...

I think I saw your or another members cable running above the radiator/condenser and ever since was planning to do that, but what about heat and resistance? Wouldn't the cabling take a lot of heat there?
I got a piece of 1/8" sheet steel to make a bracket or two but as of now have no good way of cutting it. Gonna try a jigsaw and/or a hand circular saw with appropriate blades for each.

I mounted my ACR where Greentruck did except below the side hole, and then saw that the screws/nuts would interfere with the battery install.

But you guys have given me some new ideas to work with and I thank you


Anyone else..?

 

[iptman]

This is where I mounted mine.

 

[JCruse]

That's a good spot. Something is definitely going there.

I forgot to mention in my OP that there's also a solar charge controller going under the hood. (is there anyplace else to mount the engine? Maybe we could move that instead... LOL)

Oh, that spot under the passenger seat sound good. Anything else fit under there?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I mounted mine in the 80 right where IPT man did. You have to get a bit clever about fusing the cables (or circuit breakers in your case). If you decide on fuses, the MRBF (marine rated battery fuse) are very compact and mount on the battery post.

When I get home tonight, I'll try and get a pic of my aux fuse box.

Regarding the charge controller-you'll want to protect it from too much heat. If you're determined to hard mount, keep in on the "cold" side of the motor-ie away from the exhaust manifold. I ended up not hard mounting mine, and simply attach when stationary with Anderson Power Poles.

 

[greentruck]

Wow so much great info, where to start...

I think I saw your or another members cable running above the radiator/condenser and ever since was planning to do that, but what about heat and resistance? Wouldn't the cabling take a lot of heat there?
SNIP

The cabling access passes in front of the radiator, so only sees excess heat from it when slowed or stopped. It's under the hood and obviously warm, but according to reports, that's where Mr. T runs some of his cabling on the 24 v starting system used with some diesels. You'd want to protect it with looming, but the heat isn't a big issue.

You are correct that the mounting screws for the stuff mounted to the battery box are a royal PITA. Be sure to get them in and right before you drop the battery in and starting running cabling to it. Also, be aware when doing any cutting or grinding on the battery box/tray that it has nasty fibers you do NOT want in your skin or eyes (or to breathe for that matter). Clean up carefully if you alter things on it, even just a little.

 

[iptman]

Here's my 60 amp breaker that goes to the in cab fuse block on the side of the passenger seat frame.

 

[Dave 2000]

I went with cables under the slam panel, Blue Seas VSR on the left battery shield, two mega/midi fuse boxes on the right hand side. Info in my sig link.

regards

Dave

 

[JCruse]

I was planning to put my charge controller where iptman put his ACR. Is that protected enough from the heat? The air cleaner box looks like it will block any direct IR heat radiation.

Thanks for the safety info greentruck. Always appreciated.

Also what size fuses/breakers are you guys using between battery and ACR?
I picked up a couple Bussman 150A because I'm planning an alternator change at some point, but then I saw a chart that says it's too high to use now.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

You always fuse to the size of the WIRE. So a 2 gauge cable with the high temp insulation (105C) can be safely fused at 150 amps. Look it up on an ampacity chart. Blue Sea has a great one:

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/reference/21731.pdf

Regarding the charge controller-That might be fine. Measure the temp there. If you have a Morningstar CC, they are rated up to 160F as I recall. You also want to be sure it will stay reasonably dry.

 

[JCruse]

I'm using 1 AWG so that's good.

Do you guys use any lighter gauges to make tight turns in close quarters easier? Like dropping to 4 or 6 AWG for very short sections like coming out of the battery box and going to a fuse on the side of it?


I'm using a BatteryMinder SCC-180 controller and can't find a max temp for it anywhere. But I do know that it's waterproof as long as it's mount right side up.

 

[JCruse]

Thanks Drew. I'm using EPM - East Penn Manufacturing 1AWG which is rated at the same 105* and the chart says 208A I think. (or 245) Does that mean 150A is ok?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Thanks Drew. I'm using EPM - East Penn Manufacturing 1AWG which is rated at the same 105* and the chart says 208A I think. (or 245) Does that mean 150A is ok?

Sure. That's good cabling. I would fuse it with a 200A fuse. But anything less than that would also be safe.

I would not mix wire sizes. If part of your run is 6 ga, you'd have to fuse for that.

Read this link, regarding making battery cables:

Making Your Own Battery Cables by Compass Marine How To

 

[greentruck]

I'm running 50 amp breakers on my charge circuits, carried by 4 gauge wire (I think, b/c it's loomed up and can't read the spec on the side). It's what Hellroaring recommended. No problems with that, although I haven't really tested it with the winch yet. Based on the quick heating of 12k winches, the need for cooling suggests that this will work, just haven't tested it to my satisfaction yet.

Feeds to the winch are 150 amp fuses.

 

[JCruse]

The circuit diagram in the package shows how to run the wires, but not where to mount. If you just want to mount the ACR, it fits well on the fender between the #2 battery box and the air cleaner. on my 80, that's all I did and did not use the switch.

On my 60, I did the whole set up, but to do that I had to build in shelf over the fender to mount the acr, the switch, the fuse to the inside fuse box and the ground buss.

Your circuit breakers for the big cables need to be right at the batteries, so probably mounted in some way to the box will be best.

THe 6 position fuse box for your new circuits fits very well under the passenger seat-there's ametal plate covering side of the rear heater fan-I mounted the fuse panel there. It's out of the way but easy to access.

On the blue sea package I was a bit confused by the starter and alternator connections. Like why the starter connection, and what's up with the " Alternator wire may include..." part..?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Don't sweat this. Electrically, the starter lug and the + battery terminal are the same. I think they are just trying to have fewer connections on top of the battery. All 3 of mine are connected on the + battery terminal.

There will be no alternator wire.

You may choose to hook up the "start interrupt" circuit but I did not. That hooks to the smaller starter connection and is there to open the relay when you hit the starter. Boats have radar and very sensitive radios that theoretically might be damaged by a starter spike, but on our trucks this is not needed.

To get it operating-Hook the 2 battery positives to each main terminal on the ACR. Hook the ground of the ACR to battery ground, and connect the grounds of the 2 batteries together.