Clutch adjustment - 76 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

[ChuckD]

I have adjusted my clutch where the hydraulic thing wth threaded rod pushes against the arm connected to clutch under the truck. It is set at the furthest out position possible. I set it there trying to overcome a general difficulty getting it into gear... will go into gear easy with engine off but running requires a bit of effort. Since this is adjusted at the end of its travel I'm guessing something needs replacing. When you've reached the end of that threaded rod what's the next step?
Thanks, ChuckD

 

[Trollhole]

Is your clutch slipping?

You shouldn't be able to adjust it all the way out to is furthest point without having it start to slip first. I would bleed the system and make sure you are getting full motion on your clutch resovoir Above clutch pedal.. It's possible is been adjusted to where it won't allow full motion.

 

[Jukelemon]

Theer are three adjutments that need to be made. One at the slave (what you adjusted), pedal height (in the cabin) and then master cylinder adjustment (pedal play). Without doing all three, you really do not know what the issue is or if there is an issue at all. As well, a bleeding needs to occur before you state the clutch is in need of replacement.

Do you have a FSM for the chassis and body?

 

[Mr. Toad]

ChuckD wrote: Since this is adjusted at the end of its travel I'm guessing something needs replacing. When you've reached the end of that threaded rod what's the next step?

Chuck, you also need to adjust the pedal height and the point where the pedal engages the rod activating the MC. Check your FSM and you'll see what I mean.

 

[ChuckD]

Thanks for the info guys.
The clutch is not slipping. I did recently bleed the system. I have the FSM and will go through the three part process as suggested.
There is really no ill effect aside from a tendency to grind going into reverse (except for double clutch trick) and a little difficulty going into first gear when engine is running. I GUESSED that adjusting the set nut outward would further seperate the clutch plate from flywheel when depressing clutch, and that would help get it into gear.
Was I even close?

Also, I have not had truck for long and have no idea on condition of clutch.
Thanks, ChuckD

 

[Mr. Toad]

Was I even close?

Yes.

And you also want to check to make sure your slave cylinder return spring is pulling the slave rod back into the cylinder when the system is at rest. The retracted position is the one from which you should adjust the slave rod.

 

[Trollhole]

SO what is all above is done correctly and problem still exist. Could this be a sign the clutch was put on backward?

 

[ken_79-fj40]

SO what is all above is done correctly and problem still exist. Could this be a sign the clutch was put on backward?

I think if you put the disk in backwards on a cruiser the disk will be mashed into the flywheel bolts. So you would essentially have no clutch. Like when I put my new clutch in during my frame off last year without changing the pilot bearing. The bearing seized, and I had no clutch. Mucho sucko. had the cruiser 100 percent assembled and all shiny new, first thing I had to do was take it all apart.

 

[brian]

it's possible the *problem* is IN the trany, not with the clutch.

 

[Newrider]

If worst comes to worst...rebuil the slave and master cylinders...you can buy both kits for around 40bucks...i just had to do so and my clutch is stiff as a rock now...its not that difficult and its well worth it..

 

[ChuckD]

Good call Mr Toad.
I found what may be part of the problem... there is no return spring on slave rod. Any idea on how heavy of a spring should go on this?

Thanks,

 

[FJBen]

Good call Mr Toad.
I found what may be part of the problem... there is no return spring on slave rod. Any idea on how heavy of a spring should go on this?

Thanks,

As heavy as your legs can take pushing? lol not 100% sure...just strong enough for the return. About grinding in reverse, I always put my cruiser into second gear before into reverse when just driving or parking....this stops the spinning and allows you to go into gear without grinding....

 

[Mr. Toad]

Return Spring

FJBen said: As heavy as your legs can take pushing? lol not 100% sure...just strong enough for the return.

Chuck: Ben got it. I had a big, laying-around-the-garage spring on mine for a couple of months. Replaced it with a stock spring after noticing 1) I was tired after driving, and 2) my left leg was getting bigger than my right.

Seriously though, if your slave has not been retracting (b/c no spring) for a long time, then the drag on the disc might have damaged it or caused early wear. Usually the runout of the disc would create its own space, but the spring wouldn't be there if it didn't have a purpose. Good luck.

 

[uvalue]

Should the slave return spring move back to fully compressed (not stretched at all) when the clutch pedal is released? Or should the spring still have a slight stretch to it?

 

[nc116]

Same issue for me and I'm trying to follow through the steps but the clutch bleed is a little difficult to do by yourself. Any recommendations? The fluid that was in my master reservoir was mucky and thick...

I feel like a I have some sticking issue at the slave but it's not the easiest to diagnose alone.

 

[BeerM3]

Should the slave return spring move back to fully compressed (not stretched at all) when the clutch pedal is released? Or should the spring still have a slight stretch to it?

Assuming my spring is correct, and I believe it is, it should be have a little tension on it. The FSM doesn't says this specifically, but I've read somewhere on here that when adjusting for the 1/8" of free play at the slave to fork connection, temporarily unhook the spring so it's not influencing the "measurement", which is really just eyeballed.

 

[nc116]

Does everyone really get the full 215mm of pedal height?

I think my issue is that when the master push rod comes too far back there some inlet of air which is not good. must be the seal there. Current resolution is that I just limited how far back it will go and adjusted the slave as well.

I was a mess driving the other day because I was stuck in gear and had pump 20+ times before the clutch would engage...

At what height would you expect the clutch to start to engage?

 

[Grouchy]

I have adjusted my clutch where the hydraulic thing wth threaded rod pushes against the arm connected to clutch under the truck. It is set at the furthest out position possible. I set it there trying to overcome a general difficulty getting it into gear... will go into gear easy with engine off but running requires a bit of effort. Since this is adjusted at the end of its travel I'm guessing something needs replacing. When you've reached the end of that threaded rod what's the next step?
Thanks, ChuckD

Old thread.. and probably well solved.. but I wanted to share in the forum that I had problems shifting into gear when the motor was running. No issue when the motor was off. Turns out the throw out bearing was broken and binding the input shaft to the flywheel. Worth a thought if you have not replaced/inspected the clutch assembly.