Cheap snorkel from Malaysia not too bad! (3 Viewers)

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That looks like a nice pre-cleaner however he does not list the CFM. For those Cyclonic pre-cleaners to work, you have to match the CFM rating to the CFM of the engine at a given RPM range. Meaning, either you won't get enough "swirl" to clean the intake or you'll get too much draw and the intake air won't swirl.

For the 2F you need 90-200 CFM rated pre-cleaner, like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/190447756441?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
 
Any updates on this? I am about to bite the bullet on this. What size hole saw did you need? I need order one of those as well. I like the idea of running the pre cleaner bowl, but I wonder about that at highway speed since it is made for slower work. Has anyone run one at highway speeds for an extended period?

Here is the cleaner I am thinking of:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snorkel-Com...uiser|Make:Toyota&hash=item5d35d38f5b&vxp=mtr


got mine plumbed, i recommend attaching the flex to the snorkel before bolting the snorkel in place (if that wasn't mentioned already). Happy with the quality, still need to extend my breathers and waterproof the dizzy before I ford any rivers. I wholeheartedly recommend though, good product, great turnaround.

I used an angle grinder to cut my sheetmetal, while not for the faint of heart, all the imperfections were covered by the snorkel itself.

IMG_20121127_155241.jpg
 
God damn it spike... you need to quit that sh!t dude..... I was about to pull a trigger on one of them toyota pre-cleaners and now you post this..

Thanks..............................................I guess !!!
 
i have that exact pre cleaner on my 12ht attached to a safari snorkel. it works great, i can see the shlt swirling in the bowl but its right next to my DS window and its bullshlt loud with the window open. to the point where its a pain in the ass to drive.

you LHD boys should be ok but :cheers:

i love the fact that its protecting my engine but im contemplating swapping back to the original style for long drives
 
Did anyone else's come with the 90 degree elbow (plastic) formed in it already? I assume everyones was but after reading a few Safari snorkel build threads I thought I would ask. Also mine is missing a stud so I picked up am 8mm bolt that should work. Was there any hardware included to attach the top mount? I was planning on using stainless steel self tapping screws. I have some M10 1" screws already and they seem like they would work just fine.

For the cutting, none of the holes are marked and there are no instructions. I assume the tiny dot of a hole at the front above the flared part of the fender is where the large hole with the hole saw is going to be cut. Did anyone snap any photos of the install process, or did everyone just wait until the end?
 
God damn it spike... you need to quit that sh!t dude..... I was about to pull a trigger on one of them toyota pre-cleaners and now you post this..

Thanks..............................................I guess !!!

Yeah, there's a formula somewhere - and since you have a V8, you need to figure out what's right for your setup...

:D:D
 
Did anyone else's come with the 90 degree elbow (plastic) formed in it already? Did anyone snap any photos of the install process, or did everyone just wait until the end?

Yes it had a elbow already. Yeah, there are rivets included in the kit to attach the top.. I didn't put the back most, towards the door bolt in the body of the snorkel, because there is a bracket that's in the way, and my arm couldn't reach that far.

The three holes that are obvious are for the main body of snorkel, Yeah, the tiny dimple in the paper above the curve in body line is the center hole for the holesaw. I used a 3.5 " hole saw, I believe. The plastic is 3.12 (1/8), if I'm not mistaken, and to me in a scrap piece it made it easier to be able to pull the air box stretchy hose through the fender, clamp it to the snorkel, then work it all into the fender, then bolt...


If you look back a couple posts, I took pictures of every step almost, and posted a couple of them...

Thanks, Cody Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
 
I installed mine this morning. It went fairly smooth. The 3 1/8th hole saw kicked out of my drill and scratched my fender at one point. So I need to hunt down some touch up paint. I swapped out the rivets up top for three M10 1.25x1" stainless screws. I think they will hold up just fine.

Here is the finished product:

282925_10100376275597740_914275710_n.jpg
 
I installed mine this morning. It went fairly smooth. The 3 1/8th hole saw kicked out of my drill and scratched my fender at one point. So I need to hunt down some touch up paint. I swapped out the rivets up top for three M10 1.25x1" stainless screws. I think they will hold up just fine.

Here is the finished product:


do you have more pics of your front shackle angle? it looks perfect, and I always thought most of the box lifts had too steep of angles. nice, how does it ride?
 
do you have more pics of your front shackle angle? it looks perfect, and I always thought most of the box lifts had too steep of angles. nice, how does it ride?

I can take some more when I get back home. The springs/shocks are from Hell's Creek Suspension's 2.5" and the shackles are OME.
 
I like it, looks about 45 degrees. nice.
 
'm no expert, but it looks like the shackles are almost horizontal, and the only thing keeping them from being completely flat is the 3rd "anti-inversion" shackle pin. That's probably not ideal.
Are the HFS springs longer than than OME springs?
 
I'm gonna disagree until we see more pics or an angle finder on the shackles, they look perfectly at 45 degrees but optimal shackle angle is really subject to the amount of arch in the spring.

you want the shackle to be close to horizontal when the spring is fully compressed, flat and at the bumps.

this also translates to optimal droop, as the the shackle has farther to rotate around the axis as well as deflect the leaf.

having shackles closer to 90 increases the spring rate of the assembly (especially with de-arched springs), causing a rougher ride, decreased downtravel (droop) and less articulation in general.

as I understand it, I was an arts major though.
 
I live in southern Africa and I guess this is the same snorkel you guys were talking about. The price over here is equal to about 200 EUR, whereas the Safari Snorkel is around 450 EUR.

http://www.4x4direct.co.za/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=5

On that same page is also a expertise from the university of Stellenbosch confirming the UV resistance of the material used.

http://www.4x4direct.co.za/uv-test.pdf

I am most concernend about the amount of air in can put through. Any experience on this?
 
Oggy said:
There is even a installation write up. I am really considering getting one.
http://www.4x4direct.co.za/install-snorkel-60-series-land-cruiser/

BTW how do you guys waterproof your distributors?

This is from Robustbambi's thread "my first Toyota". Page 15 or so...
As quoted from the all- knowing FJ40Jim...

FJ40Jim said:
The distributor is already waterproof. That's why it done blowed up.
It got fuel vapor in it, (through the breather system from the non-firing engine) which then ignited when it got to a burnable concentration.

Make sure the cap ventilation system is fully functional before installing another dissy cap and blowing it to pieces.
:cheers:
 
If anyone wants a holesaw I bought one. I will ship it postage paid to whomever. Then just pass it on to the next IH8Mudder. Just let me know and I will throw it in a priority box to you.
 
I should take you up on that ... I'll send a PM tonight!
 
Its yours. Just give me your address and Ill stick it in the mail postage paid. Then the next person that want sit can get ahold of you and you can mail it to them. Its only cut one hole, it cuts very nice. Dont forget to put some type of touchup paint on the cut edge of the hole.
 

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