I didn't...zip ties are fine.
Charcoal Canister - Great Option! (1 Viewer)
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on my '94 i deleted the lower band and zip tied the other.
Works fine since 2012 and I'm the only person who knows i half-assed it. I could see using a longer bolt, but it's not going anywhere.
Works fine since 2012 and I'm the only person who knows i half-assed it. I could see using a longer bolt, but it's not going anywhere.
Thanks all!
Happy New Year!!
Happy New Year!!
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
Zip ties. I don't like it but I haven't bothered with changing it...
I just got my VC120 with my auto zone rewards. Gonna install it next week with the rest of my PM I have planned.
What is everyone doing with the hose that connects to the bottom of the OEM canister? The NON toyota canister doesn't have a bottom hose connection...
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
it doesn't need it, the non oem canister has a gap at the bottom because it has its own air filter. The hose went into the frame to act as a fresh air supply for the vent on the oem canister.
I found the bottom hose to be in excellent shape....cut it to a shorter length and recycled it to the Purge side as that line was in horrible condition.
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
mine is living in my trail spares tub
All -
After owning my 80 for over 2 years, experiencing higher than normal pressure when removing the gas cap the entire time, I tried many solutions. However, I've been reluctant to replace the charcoal canister due to the cost -- approx $300 (plus or minus), and it's a dealer-only item.
Many of us have posted/read info on this thread:
Excessive fuel tank pressure
I tried a junk yard canister from a 1997 80 with absolutely no affect. I tested hoses, attempted to test pressures, made sure the VSV worked correctly, etc. As best I could tell the system was at least functioning.
After much research, I found this alternative canister for $36 !!!
If the link gets stale, it's Autozone part VC120 for early 1990s GM cars with the 3.1L V6 (pontiac, oldsmobile). The dimensions were close enough to ours, so I pulled the trigger on a hunch. And it works beautifully! I wanted to run thru several fill-ups before I posted, and I can say that after 6 fill-ups, my 80 finally operates like a normal car (as the gas pump anyway). No sound, no air escaping, etc.
It has the same style connectors and pulls in fresh air from the bottom just like the 80s. Using the highly calibrated "blow with your mouth" technique, I confirmed that this canister is almost identical to the stock 80s as described in the FSM. Minor details on mounting:
Info/links:
- There is no hose connection on the bottom like the 80s, so you can remove the hose completely. This replacement canister has it's own filter and cover on the bottom. In stock 80s, the hose simply routes down to the frame area. I assume to pull in fresher, cooler air.
- The diameter is just a bit larger than the stock 80s, but you can see in the pic below that it fits in the stock bracket, in the stock location, using the stock hoses. You'll notice that I used a ziptie in place of the bolt on the bracket - a longer bolt would be better, but I didn't have one around. And it's a tight fit, so I don't think it's going anywhere
- The "tank" port on the canister uses a larger diameter hose barb, but a little persuasion works.
How to test your canister from 1997 FSM
-I suspect that the purge check valve in my canister was sticking. You should have suction into the engine on the purge hose as described in the link above. This suction should be able to keep up with vapors generated in the tank as long as the canister flows freely.
I haven't tested this after driving up to high elevations yet, but based on my experience so far, I think it's going to do great. Hope this helps out the community as much as it's helped me.
How you got it with that bottom clamp in place is beyond me.........Thanks, just finished mine and had to remove the bottom clamp.....truck seems to like it ans start easier.
I have been waiting to post about this, just because I wanted to make sure it was going to work out all right. But since this came up I will go ahead and mention it.
I recently purchased a charcoal canister for a carbureted 98-02 Yamaha R1 motorcycle. It's about the same height as the stock canister, but only 2 inches diameter. Hoses hook up fine, even the bottom, and frees up a lot of space.
Summertime heat is barely here, and I haven't had in the mountains yet. I generally travel between 5000-12000 feet which causes a lot of pressure changes and can work a canister pretty hard. So I can't say 100% this is a solution but so far it's looking good. This is a daily driver also, so it purges regularly.
And bonus... it's a Denso unit. Here's an eBay link to similar, if you search you can find them for less than $20.
Yamaha YZF R1 R1 2002 2003 Evaporative Canister Evap Canister 80767 | eBay
Not permanent mounted, yet. Waiting to make sure it's going to work with elevation. Also, ignore the zip tied VSV, working on an EGR issue.
I recently purchased a charcoal canister for a carbureted 98-02 Yamaha R1 motorcycle. It's about the same height as the stock canister, but only 2 inches diameter. Hoses hook up fine, even the bottom, and frees up a lot of space.
Summertime heat is barely here, and I haven't had in the mountains yet. I generally travel between 5000-12000 feet which causes a lot of pressure changes and can work a canister pretty hard. So I can't say 100% this is a solution but so far it's looking good. This is a daily driver also, so it purges regularly.
And bonus... it's a Denso unit. Here's an eBay link to similar, if you search you can find them for less than $20.
Yamaha YZF R1 R1 2002 2003 Evaporative Canister Evap Canister 80767 | eBay
Not permanent mounted, yet. Waiting to make sure it's going to work with elevation. Also, ignore the zip tied VSV, working on an EGR issue.
So I have a lot of pressure from the gas tank. Can someone explain to me the charcoal canisters role with that? I have my factory canister I believe with 286k. Looking at trying the the autozone canister of their is an issue.
There is a one way valve in the canister that is supposed to let in fuel vapors from the tank, thereby relieving the pressure. Over time, this valve appears to be failing closed. This allows the pressure to build in the tank.
Thanks,
So warning signs is lots of pressure in the fuel tank when gassing up. any other issues? like longer cranking occasionally?
Yes on the first. I'm not sure on the second. Others can answer that.
If your tank vents pressure when you go to refuel, you are probably somewhere in the process of needing a new charcoal canister. If left unchecked, you can get to the point where fuel is boiling out your fill valve as you refuel after a long highway drive.
If your tank vents pressure when you go to refuel, you are probably somewhere in the process of needing a new charcoal canister. If left unchecked, you can get to the point where fuel is boiling out your fill valve as you refuel after a long highway drive.
That actually happened to me on my cross country trip i just got back from. Pumped gas, then was filling Jerry cans and it started to dump gas out of the fill spout. I quickly threw on the gas cap. Never had that happen before. Sounds like it is time for a new canister
Looks like the VC120 is no longer in stock/ is now a special order. It will not let me order
