Caster washer mod huge improvement! (1 Viewer)

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Dec 4, 2011
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Camino California
My caster bushings fell apart and it was just plain dangerous to drive on the road. Although this is our off road rig, we don't have a trailer so we drive 20 to 40 miles to trails. I had a machine shop press in new bushings in the front arms ($80). Then welded the washers in the front of the bracket (about 4 hours of sketchy work with high lift and floor jacks leaning all over the place). Went for a test drive and OH MY GOD! It's a miracle! It drives straight down the road! It is obvious now that the caster correction bushings never did work for me. I recommend anybody with a 4 inch lift to buy front brackets and use stock bushings! Don't bother with caster correction bushings. If you still insist on trying the blue bushings, just buy them from me! I will make you a great deal on them! Pics below, L.B.
IMG_20151004_094437.jpg
 
I'm learning the same lesson.
Stock bushing & washer mod, but that's Old School. Yeah exactly, OLD SCHOOL.

Thanks for the share.
 
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Same experience here, had caster correcting bushings that were starting to come apart so I went back to OEM bushings and built some 7.5* caster plates... night and day difference. Only way to go imo
 
Drove it again today and even with 40's it drives like a dream.
IMG_20151004_123127.jpg
 
such a good feeling when it drives like normal with big ass tires and a lift!!!
 
Uhg, I feel like I'm going backwards. After working towards getting everything aligned and caster solved I removed my front bumper and winch to build a new one. She drive like crap right now. I really really am hoping it is just the lack of weight in the front. Once that is done, I'm 99% sure I will need a DC for the front as well (that I have lived with, the wondering and wobbles I won't stand for)
 
So how long are these things supposed to last?
 
I originally bought a set of TJM castor bushings to replace my MAF 4 drop brackets. I ended up saying F IT to both of those options and ordered the plates from @sleeoffroad . My first product from them, and what got me hooked. Wouldn't mess around with anything else unless I had a completely one off application need.
 
So how long are these things supposed to last?
I suppose that would greatly depend on how you use your truck and how hard you wheel it.
 
I originally bought a set of TJM castor bushings to replace my MAF 4 drop brackets. I ended up saying F IT to both of those options and ordered the plates from @sleeoffroad . My first product from them, and what got me hooked. Wouldn't mess around with anything else unless I had a completely one off application need.
 
I originally bought a set of TJM castor bushings to replace my MAF 4 drop brackets. I ended up saying F IT to both of those options and ordered the plates from @sleeoffroad . My first product from them, and what got me hooked. Wouldn't mess around with anything else unless I had a completely one off application need.
How would you compare the appropriateness ir application of your dripop brackets vs slee plates?
 
for me a lot of these caster claims comes down to perspective. If you drove a truck with bad caster and suddenly made an improvement which you now think it drives like a dream, does that mean it's automatically the best it can or should be?

The original washer method depicted elongating the front hole by about 5/8", as I remember. If that is what you did then you are no where near the caster spec Toyota defines.

Does it drive a bunch better than those beat up torn to s*** bushings? I'm sure it does.

Some alignment numbers and details on how you performed this washer mod would be nice to see.
 
for me a lot of these caster claims comes down to perspective. If you drove a truck with bad caster and suddenly made an improvement which you now think it drives like a dream, does that mean it's automatically the best it can or should be?

The original washer method depicted elongating the front hole by about 5/8", as I remember. If that is what you did then you are no where near the caster spec Toyota defines.

Does it drive a bunch better than those beat up torn to s*** bushings? I'm sure it does.

Some alignment numbers and details on how you performed this washer mod would be nice to see.
I agree
Considering the objectivity of alignment printouts and modes expense $20 here without doing toe in it surprises me how few members get that data after making changes to their beloved 80s
 
Retrofive, do you have the plates or caster bushings? I used to have terrible wobbles with Super Swamper Bias 38.5's. Got Procomp Radials and all is good. I would check wheel bearings (jack up the diff and pull on the tire side to side) if there is any play, your too loose. also, check Panhard bushings. If I had it to do over, I would have simply bought the plates instead of caster correction bushings. I am sure that my washer mod creates about the same caster as the plates. L.B.

image.jpg
 
Retrofive, do you have the plates or caster bushings? I used to have terrible wobbles with Super Swamper Bias 38.5's. Got Procomp Radials and all is good. I would check wheel bearings (jack up the diff and pull on the tire side to side) if there is any play, your too loose. also, check Panhard bushings. If I had it to do over, I would have simply bought the plates instead of caster correction bushings. I am sure that my washer mod creates about the same caster as the plates. L.B.
BTDT with the bushings. Running MT plates now on 315 MT/r (plenty new). No wheel bearing issues, but that needs to be re-visited. Panhard is good as well (learned that one the hard way as well). Night and difference with nothing done other than weight up front. I am running MT coil spacers, which I could remove for giggles. It is the typical 45mph everyone talks about. Under that speed, nothing noticed, 55+ all good.

So nothing really tech note worthy and have plenty options to diag. But first things first.... finish bumper and get some weight back up front first is my train of thought.


HOWEVER, side note I know one of my front stock bushings is toast due to a plasma incident. So, ya, note to self replace the bushings too. (Could be my wobble and combo of weight)
 
I cut slots all the way down to the bottom of the bracket, So my holes center to center are about 1 inch. So only Half of the washer is actually welded to the bracket (we actually used 2 and 1 /2 washers each side and welded up the original holes). I feel it will be plenty strong enough, but if there are any problems, i will simply buy the plates!
image.jpg
if the outside of the holes were touching, the center to center would be 5/8 inch. I will probably never get numbers but if i do, ill post.
 
I wonder how you compare the good/bad features of the MAF drop brackets to the Slee plates
 
I have the blue bushings and want a solution that includes OEM rubber bushings
I have about 4 1/2 degrees to compensate for my particular "2 1/2 - 3 inch lift"
OME medium springs no winch
 
I wonder how you compare the good/bad features of the MAF drop brackets to the Slee plates

Ok, now i'm tracking. To me the biggest bonus is you don't have that MAF bracket sticking way down off the rear of the front control arm mount. Not only does it get in the way of mounting certain sliders, it sticks down far enough that you could grab it on rocks when your out on the trail. The only benefit to the MAF bracket that I can see is its probably the easiest castor correction to mount. Other than that, last i checked, its more expensive by almost double over the Slee brackets.
 

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