Caster Shims on OME Front Springs? (1 Viewer)

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rover67

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I know there are tons of OME discussions out there, and i think i know the answer to this one already by just thinking about it logically but i feel like asking since i don't want to take it apart again if I don't have to....

my fj60 had lift shackles, stock springs, and caster shims on it before I started the OME suspension upgrade. I am assuming that I should not use the caster shims again since the OME shackles are short like the stock ones and the geometry should be back to stock?

Thanks for the help,
Marco
 
I did not on mine. I did not see it as an option when building my kit that I wanted. I have never heard of them being needed on a 60 with the OME 2"-3" set up.

The shims are used on a 40 series but the driveline length is shorter so your driveshaft angles must be corrected.

Note: Just because I have never seen or heard of them being used on a 60 does not mean they are not suppose to be.
 
You can try leaving them on and then measuring the caster angle and you will know for sure. I would start with them off if that is what they recommend.

Which ever way measure it and see if it is within the spec.
 
None on my setup.

I understand the springs are designed to help limit the 'influence' on castor. My 60 is a DD and I regularly cruise at 75, straight ad true.
 
don't take OME or anybody's word for nothin', every truck is different. I bought a truck with OME's on it, was squirrelly, had it measured, one side was +1/2 degree, the other -1/2, so I put 3 degree shims on it and now it's on rails. stock is +1 degree, which isn't much and IMHO not enough for wider than stock tires. I run 33x12.50's and 3-4 degrees is what works for me. if you don't measure first you're flying blind, so install the OME's (shims or not, but I'd use 'em) and go get an alignment.

Steve
 
great suggestions, I am going to measure it then see.. thanks guys!
 
don't take OME or anybody's word for nothin', every truck is different. I bought a truck with OME's on it, was squirrelly, had it measured, one side was +1/2 degree, the other -1/2, so I put 3 degree shims on it and now it's on rails. stock is +1 degree, which isn't much and IMHO not enough for wider than stock tires. I run 33x12.50's and 3-4 degrees is what works for me. if you don't measure first you're flying blind, so install the OME's (shims or not, but I'd use 'em) and go get an alignment.

Steve

I'm not trying to start an arguement here, but how do you check it if you already have worn out springs? I mean sagged out so bad they are bent over backwards?
 
if they're that clapped out, then obviously any measurement is pointless...in that situation, I would put it together then measure immediately after...if you don't have a solid one to two degrees of positive caster, be prepared to shim it.

my point was don't assume caster is or will be right, measure it and act on information, not a manufacturer's good intentions or somebody's else's truck.

notice the order of actions I suggested:
"install the OME's (shims or not, but I'd use 'em) and go get an alignment"

I should have been clearer in that yes, it's pointless to measure caster with springs that are being replaced, even if they were new, because it will almost certainly change if the new springs aren't identical...pointless except for knowing how many degrees related to how well the truck steers.

What did Reagan say about the Russkies, "trust but verify".
 
So.. how do you measure caster? I stuggle with front end stuff.
 
so i installed the springs with no shims and it tracks great....actually even better than before. I guess it would have been interesting to measure it up before i took it apart, but honestly, it was so patched together the numbers would have probably been worthless.

i haven't gotten around to measuring the caster, but if everybody wants to know the number i can do it next week and post it. I guess I am kind of curious to know how close it is now.

One thing to note is that with the whole front end of the truck of of the ground (supported by the frame) the front driveshaft came REALLY close to the crossmember. Seem to me like those shims might make it touch at that extreme.
 
so i installed the springs with no shims and it tracks great....actually even better than before. I guess it would have been interesting to measure it up before i took it apart, but honestly, it was so patched together the numbers would have probably been worthless.

Glad to hear it

I haven't gotten around to measuring the caster, but if everybody wants to know the number i can do it next week and post it. I guess I am kind of curious to know how close it is now.

We don't need it if it tracks fine and you are happy.

One thing to note is that with the whole front end of the truck of of the ground (supported by the frame) the front driveshaft came REALLY close to the crossmember. Seem to me like those shims might make it touch at that extreme.

Is this with the sway bar disconnected?

I don't think shims will help this situation that much.
 
it is with the sway bar connected (which i don't guess would affect it much since both sides are all the way down). caster shims, i was guessing, would tilt the axle and "chunk" back, dropping the driveshaft a bit more. honestly now that i think about it though, 3 degrees is probably nothing by th etime it gets back to that driveshaft.
 
ok so being the king of reviving old threads,,, this one was going my way, I needed to know the factory caster spec for an 88 fj62, with an ome, mine is ps +1 DS 0, I put the 2 degree shims on and the difference is negligable... it might be my hokey tires,, but wanted some hard numbers from a FSM, any help?
 
Send a PPM to Cruiser Drew or OrangeFJ45.

ok so being the king of reviving old threads,,, this one was going my way, I needed to know the factory caster spec for an 88 fj62, with an ome, mine is ps +1 DS 0, I put the 2 degree shims on and the difference is negligable... it might be my hokey tires,, but wanted some hard numbers from a FSM, any help?
 
I've got the same OME set-up with no shims. mine is all over the road. i'm guessing tires. what tires are you guys running that allow for comfortable 75-80 mph speeds?? i have 33x12.5's

jeff
 
I fought a long battle with the vehicle tracking to the right after I put the OME lift kit on. Even added 2 degree shims. It turned out to be the tires..If you are having a drifting problem, try switching the front tires from side to side.
 
is the nature of a 12.5" tire going to be to "float" a bit on the road? or is there a brand that is pretty true? or do i need to go down to a 10.5" for a good highway speed stability.
 

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