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Cargo Window Gasket Option

Discussion in 'FJ55 Iron Pig Preservation Society' started by CarmMontana, Jun 26, 2010.

  1. CarmMontana

    CarmMontana

    Messages:
    841
    Location:
    Kalispell Montana
    Ok guys and gals. I have been trying to find a solution for my cargo windows for some time. I know that many out there think that 250 for a set plus shipping is a fine deal but for me that is way out of my budget.

    I work for a professional auto glass shop as a technician and have been keeping my eye out for anything that has the same profile and isn't to expensive. Well this past month after looking for about a year I ran across the perfect gasket.
    The gasket comes from a 1979 chevy pickup. It is the gasket for the rear window. There are at least three options but this one is for the solid glass piece vs the slider option. The number of the molding is a WBL1135, as you should see in the pic below.

    I ordered two of these at 25 bucks a piece and got to work. The tools you will need are simple. I used only what anyone would have to see if it was possible. Yep, I do have many tools at my disposal at work but that wouldn't be fair. So these are the tools you will need.

    -Two Rolls of Tape, Anything two inch or more. This will act as your glass rack while you build your moldings.

    -At least 10-15 good razor blades... I don't mean the cheap ones get the good stuff here

    -An angle finder, if you don't have one you can eyeball it but I warn you thats not ideal.

    -Lastly you need to get some molding adhesive. This stuff is like 3 bucks for a small container from the shop I work for but for some reason its something like 18 at this site.
    Moulding Maker Adhesive UMA297 by Equalizer

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jun 26, 2010
  2. CarmMontana

    CarmMontana

    Messages:
    841
    Location:
    Kalispell Montana
    Ok. The first step is to find a flat surface to work. Then set down your two rolls of tape and you cleaned cargo window. Make sure you know which side is out, this isn't really important but I like details. This will allow you the needed space to work the molding on and keep it elevated to eliminate the molding from sliding off. See Pic Below

    Then remove the molding from the package and find the shorter run from the 90 degree points. **This is important so make sure you understand what i am saying here. ** The shorter portion will be the most forward piece of the molding and will have the two 90 degree bends. Then place the 90 degree on the glass at the bottom of the most forward part of the glass and measure the approximate middle between the top and bottom. This will be your first cut. Pic below.

    * I have found that cutting gaskets perfect is a bit of an art and actually pretty tough so here is a little tip. When you have your line marked take the blade and cut in at about 1/4 and then use a rubber mallet or dead blow and tap it through the rest of the molding. It gives you the straightest cuts.

    After your fits cut you will have to make another straight cut so that the 90 degree for the upper most front of the glass can be done. You will also cut this at the approximate middle and place it on the glass to check for fit. You don't have to be perfect here. If you have two straight cuts and you have it pretty close it should be fine, the glue is very strong and allows for a little stretch in the molding. ** NOTE don't throw out the leftovers of this cut or cut it for practice, you will need it later*** See pic below for fit and look.

    Attached Files:

  3. CarmMontana

    CarmMontana

    Messages:
    841
    Location:
    Kalispell Montana
    Next step is the actual gluing of the moldings.

    This step is the most important but also the easiest. So take the two ends that you have cut and fit and place the molding adhesive maker on one end of the molding, this direction can be different for other brands so do whatever it tells you. Then fit the gasket on the the glass and force the two ends together. You should hold these together for about 30 seconds. You should be aware that you need to make sure all portions of the gasket have glue and that they touch, no big deal if you missed one though because you can just add glue and press that portion together. See pic below.. You can see where I missed the rope in portion and had to add some glue...

    Next is to put the molding on the top portion of the glass. This allows you to see your next cut. If you are having some issues with the rest of the molding being in the way you can cut it in the middle of the portion that should be hanging on the glass. This way you don't short yourself. So after you have the top installed you can see where you need to cut your next angle. This is where the fun begins. The topmost back of the glass is about a 90 degree and that is what i cut for it. So to get this cut done on the glass correctly you need to mark the glass at the angle you choose. This way you can start your cut from this line and work your way through the molding. THis is a really nice trick that allows the molding to be the right size, if the molding has play on the corners you will have a hard time installing. Sorry no pic of this but I will try and get one.

    So after you make your cut then take the piece you cut off earlier and do the same but for the opposite side of the angle. This piece will be the back side of the molding. Glue it together, again on the glass and with pressure for 30 seconds, then admire.

    Then go to the bottom most back angle and mark the glass. This is the most complex angle and the toughest to get right. I did the glass marking trick but with an angle finder as stated in the materials it is something like a 115 degree angle over a slope so... Anyway take your time here and really try to get it right. I did it ok on the first but the second was much better. Glue it after you cut both sides of the angle and make sure none of your cuts have separated. Pic below.

    The last step is to plug some holes that are in the moldings for the chevy truck water drains. You can use anything that will bond to rubber. i used weatherstrip adhesive as I had some lying around. A pic of these holes is below.

    Attached Files:

  4. CarmMontana

    CarmMontana

    Messages:
    841
    Location:
    Kalispell Montana
    The moldings should be done now so the next step is install. I have seen many people ask how to do this in the past and I wanted to touch on it as it is really an easy process but something you have to see to understand.

    You will need to get some 1/8 rope. You will then get a caulking tube tip and force the rope through it and tie a knot on the other end. This will allow you to force the rope in the gaskets rope channel and move along it to get the whole gasket. I have placed a pic of the item roped below. I know i didn't use the caulking tip but it works just as easily as the tool in the pic. A few pointer are below and could save you a headache.

    -Always start roping a gasket from the bottom middle.
    - Leave yourself at least 3-4 inches of rope to pull on.
    - You shouldn't need lube on new gaskets and some states even have laws against it but if you do use a lube just make sure it isn't silicone based.

    Then tape the ropes two ends to the inside of the glass.

    Then call a buddy, grab a beer and wait till he gets there. You want to have some help with the install just to be safe.

    Then once he/she gets there place the window in the opening. Make sure to place the bottom as close to the pinch weld as possible. Then someone get in the truck and start pulling the rope with a small circular motion as the other person pushes or slaps the portion of glass you are roping in., with a open hand and no rings ( ask me how I know that little mistake) So rope in the bottom to the first corner and then go to the other side and do the same. You do not want to try and rope in the whole thing from one string, use them back and forth until you are fully in. Then slap the glass all around the gasket and admire your work!!! :cheers:

    P.s. The tape you see in the pics is used to help the gasket stay on at the proper angle. I didn't cover that but you can see how that works below.

    Attached Files:

  5. CarmMontana

    CarmMontana

    Messages:
    841
    Location:
    Kalispell Montana
    Oh and last but not least. I know that this info is somewhat overwhelming and maybe not clear so if anyone wants to know anything in particular please ask so I can cover it, that way it will be useful to everybody that views it.
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2010
  6. laguna80

    laguna80

    Messages:
    1,158
    Location:
    HI
    Nice work!
  7. jsaltlick

    jsaltlick The Bar Whisperer SILVER Star

    Messages:
    4,774
    Location:
    Millis Beach
    Pure genius!
  8. PabloCruise

    PabloCruise SILVER Star

    Messages:
    11,395
    Location:
    Northern Colorado
    This is some awesome ingenuity!

    Thanks for sharing with the rest of us, that is what makes Mud a great place!!!
  9. OldBeachBob

    OldBeachBob

    Messages:
    662
    Location:
    Boise ID
    Thank You Thank You Thank You

    Thanks much - I know what I'm doing next weekend now. Great Job! This will make may piggers very happy!

    :clap: :cheers:
  10. tyama

    tyama SILVER Star

    Messages:
    773
    Location:
    Russellville, Arkansas
    Wow!

    Great writeup!
    :beer: ty
  11. CarmMontana

    CarmMontana

    Messages:
    841
    Location:
    Kalispell Montana
    No problem guys. To be selfish I am glad I figured it out. = )

    If you have any issues getting any of the items let me know. You should be able to go to any auto glass shop and get everything but you never know.

  12. sahelzer

    sahelzer

    Messages:
    54
    Location:
    Santa Ynez, California
    I went the $250 route but this is a way cool find. Someone make this a sticky.
  13. porkysan

    porkysan

    Messages:
    129
    Location:
    Baton Rouge, LA
    Nice Post! Very timely....Thanks for taking the time to get this posted.:beer:
  14. onemanarmy

    onemanarmy

    Messages:
    698
    Location:
    Raleigh, NC
    thanks a ton. will be doing this shortly.
  15. shmukster

    shmukster SILVER Star

    Messages:
    2,379
    Location:
    NE PA coal region
    Great job!!!!!

    Carm- Very well written and informative article. Love your ingenuity. Thanks for the tip!!!! Gary S
  16. nuclearlemon

    nuclearlemon not an addict Moderator

    Messages:
    14,314
    Location:
    meh-ico, colorado
    maybe this can get added to the definitive swine resource thread? definitely needs to be a "faq" thread
  17. usmcruiser

    usmcruiser

    Messages:
    1,601
    Location:
    Longmont, CO
    This is great thank you so very much!

    Just so i am clear....(I am a Marine and need everything written in a big purple crayon)....you did 3 total joints in making this gasket. A cut/glue on the vertical front (as window is installed) to get the correct height of the gasket, then another on the top rear corner, and another on the bottom rear corner just after the curve up of the window?

    Attached Files:

  18. CarmMontana

    CarmMontana

    Messages:
    841
    Location:
    Kalispell Montana
    You got man, That is exactly where I cut it. I don't have any big purple crayons, maybe the wife can pick some of those up for me :D

    Just curious what you mean by as window is installed... If you are asking if I took the window and got measurements as I cut then I did not do that. I just built the molding around the glass. The molding is the right profile so after that was done she went right in no problem. If you pay attention to your angles you should be fine, no need to go to the opening in the pig at all.
  19. PabloCruise

    PabloCruise SILVER Star

    Messages:
    11,395
    Location:
    Northern Colorado
    Awesome Nick!

    If I did 3 joints and then tried to make this gasket, I don't think that would come out very well... :D
  20. CarmMontana

    CarmMontana

    Messages:
    841
    Location:
    Kalispell Montana
    Haha I had to read that twice... Funny stuff! :D

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