- Thread starter
- #21
Ok I switched the positive and negative wires around on my coil and now it has spark going to the dizzy but it's not going to the spark plug wire.
Can't get it to start (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 73FJCRUISER
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If they both go to the coil, then why is only one wire connected to the coil+ in the above picture. The 12+ volt BY wire should be connected to coil+ as well as the dizzy. As it stands if both negative and positive wires of the dizzy are hooked up then your coil has no power.
Just read further. Could be cap or rotor. check the carbon button, check for any scratches, cracks, oxidization or carbon marks in cap. Make sure rotor is moving mark position then crank and look at the position( although you said it was put in pointing to plug 4 so that indicates movement)
Just read further. Could be cap or rotor. check the carbon button, check for any scratches, cracks, oxidization or carbon marks in cap. Make sure rotor is moving mark position then crank and look at the position( although you said it was put in pointing to plug 4 so that indicates movement)
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- Thread starter
- #24
Ok so I was getting a misfire so I flipped the distributor 180 and now it starts. That solves one problem now I think the timing is off. When I use the timing light and turn the dizzy I can't see the bb and it'll end up dying before I get to it. Any ideas?
Could be out a tooth if you run out of room to turn. I also used a vacuum gauge to time my aftermarket dizzy.
Connect vacuum gauge to brake booster hose and advance dizzy till you get max psi (18 or so) then retard 1 psi.
Is your carb tuned?
Connect vacuum gauge to brake booster hose and advance dizzy till you get max psi (18 or so) then retard 1 psi.
Is your carb tuned?
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- #26
Yeah just tuned it and it's already advanced.
Oh a tip to help see the TDC and the BB mark on the flywheel is to mark them with a bright colour. I had a bright pink paint marker so i used that. Most say to remove the bottom fly wheel cover and do this, i was able to do it through the little window.
That BB is 7* past TDC. When i timed my trollhole dizzy the i had to advance it quite a bit, the BB was barely visible in the bottom of the window when it was all said and done.
That BB is 7* past TDC. When i timed my trollhole dizzy the i had to advance it quite a bit, the BB was barely visible in the bottom of the window when it was all said and done.
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- Thread starter
- #28
Yea mine is visible. So I got it timed good and I set the valves and instead of of turning it to tdc I cranked it for the second setting and I screwed up the timing is there any way to set the timing again it sounds like a loud knocking when the engine is started so I set it to tdc/compression and pulled the dizzy to try and realign but still off.
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- #29
I set the valves ish to where I can drive it a little still knocking but it'll go but timing is still off it lacks power. I've tempered with the carb dizzy timing still not good it's real loud when I drive it and doesn't really have the power you hear.
do you have any vacuum leaks? Hook up a vacuum gauge to your brake booster, should be getting around 18psi.
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- #31
Won't advancing it make it louder and I have a weber and not sure if my dizzy is aftermarket.
Might make it louder. These trucks are loud though , I don't think your dizzy is stock but it should still run fine, timing may be different then a stock dizzy.
Not sure how to set up a weber but i have heard they can be problematic on F motors if not properly adjusted.
Not sure how to set up a weber but i have heard they can be problematic on F motors if not properly adjusted.
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- Thread starter
- #33
So I advanced it and it's a little better now. I still have to get the timing and valves proper but thanks to all for your feedback.
