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can't find it :-(

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by Junk, May 5, 2003.

  1. Junk

    Junk

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    OK, I know someone around here this is a thread on what to look for when looking for an 80 series. I can't find it though, and I've spent too much time looking and retyping stuff. :slap: There's two guys I know that want to go look at 80's in the next 48 hours. Anyone know where the thread is? This would be a great FAQ.

    Sorry - just don't want to reinvent the wheel and I know several folks contributed to it.

    Thanks :banana:
     
  2. woody

    woody Internet Fireman Staff Member

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    noobie list at sleeoffroad.com?
     
  3. Junk

    Junk

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    Nah. There was a post here, or maybe it was back on SOR that listed a bunch of things to look at. Yeah, the newbie guide helps, but there's something around - just can't find it. :dunno:
     
  4. Gumby

    Gumby Supamod Staff Member s-Moderator

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    I don't remember it since you have been here. Must have SOR, PoR, or 80scool.
     
  5. Brentbba

    Brentbba Former Golfer SILVER Star

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    Junk,

    I remember the list. I think it was on SOR. Sorry could't be of more help.
     
  6. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Junk,
    Was it in Beonese or in English?
    -B-
     
  7. landtank

    landtank SILVER Star

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    I remember one written by Tyler. Had sources for checking service and accidents and such.
     
  8. Chris_Geiger

    Chris_Geiger

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    Well to start with your going to want to get one with locking diffs. When I searched for mine the ones with lockers did not cost any more than the ones without. Seems the dealers just look at the year, miles and basic condition.

    1991-1992 have the smaller engine, 1993-1997 have about 50 more ponies.

    1995 was the first year for air bags.

    Prices are really coming down on these babies. I have heard of deals as low as 10K for 93/94
     
  9. thorvald

    thorvald .......

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    pretty sure the others are right and it was on sor, there was a few different threads on it there.
     
  10. semlin

    semlin rocker

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    Junk,
    got bored so here goes: some details will need to be corrected

    -93 onward = more powerful fze 4.5l engine,

    -march 93 onward = new style a/c – doesn’t blow as cold but cheaper to recharge

    -95 onward = airbags, cheaper aluminum 2 core radiator, 343 tranny (which some say is more troublesome)

    -fze engines can be turbocharged or supercharged with trd/aftermarket kits (eventually you will feel the need for speed). Both are expensive and have pros and cons. Both require a healthy motor to begin with – factory compression is 170 per cylinder. Unless these options are in your future its not 100% necessary to test compression unless you suspect head gasket problems or work (see below)

    -lockers available as an option 93-97 - look for dial to left of steering wheel (try engaging them on gravel not asphalt, be patient as they work better with use and will be slow if it's a mall cruiser, roll slowly in reverse and forward and turn wheel slightly to engage)

    -head gasket problems (look for coolant use, white smoke, crusties around the head)

    -blocked radiator (look for gunk in there or any signs of mixed coolants) – this leads to overheating and h/g problems

    -abs was an option up to 94? If you don’t have it you have rear drums instead of discs and your rear end is not a full floater <not totally sure on this one>

    -front axles need new seals and bearing repack after 100,000 miles or so of mall cruiser use – (any signs of leaks at the knuckles or dripping seals, any sign of mixing grease in the diff oil indicating inner seals have given out). This is an $800-1000 bonus if someone has done it already.

    -look for signs of wheeling (pinstriping, scratches on transfer case)

    -check condition of diff oil for signs of water contamination or metal fragments especially if its been wheeled

    -lower engine seal weeps are common but still eventually expensive

    -check brake rotor condition (not a defect problem on 80's, they just weigh lots and eat brakes)

    -original factory muffler or aftermarket? (cheap mufflers do not last long)

    -hand brake working? should have 7-9 clicks. May not stop the truck from rolling.

    -leaking sunroof drains (damp front carpet or signs of rust or moisture inside the front kick panels and under the dash, this is more annoying that it sounds but can be fixed in theory).

    -tricky heater hose for rear heater can crack and fail

    -water can leak into rear quarter panels from the sliding windows and collect there because drain is 4 inches up from bottom (you have to pull the trim on p-s to see, but accessible through jack panel opening on d-s)

    -check to make sure the jack kit is complete – you need three extension bars and an handle to lower your spare – many cruisers, including mine, seem to have lost these which you have to replace.

    -only known easy to check spot for rust is on the upper tailgate, especially around the window. Rust also likely under factory roof rack mounts so vehicles without roof rack option are desirable.

    -factory trailer package (without it you have no tranny cooler and a 3500 lb tow capacity vs. 5000 lbs – it seems like almost all US 80's had the package but the owner’s manual mentions the difference so maybe some don’t)

    -clunking tranny. If tranny seems to downshift suddenly with a clunk when coasting at low speeds this can likely be adjusted
     
  11. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Simon,

    Nice job and you've got a good memory.

    :beer:
    -B-
     
  12. Junk

    Junk

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    B - sorry dude, no remember if Beohili :D or English.

    Semlin - thanks dude. Sent a copy of that right out to folks - greatly appreciated.

    Sorry for not getting back to ya sooner. Ended up back in the ER again last night.[​IMG] :slap:

    Thanks. :beer:
     
  13. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    -clunking tranny. If tranny seems to downshift suddenly with a clunk when coasting at low speeds this can likely be adjusted[/quote]

    This is what my tranny does. I had the tranny off twice and the cable of several times. I had the shop that changed the tranny oil check the clunk and he said don't worry about it. I will adjust.
    kurt
     
  14. PHAEDRUS

    PHAEDRUS

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    Junk,
    what is up with you anyway, you seem to spend a lot of time in the er. Are they going to rename the wing of the hospital soon to "Beaters Paradise"
    in all seriousness hope you are ok and just recovering.
    Dave :beer:
     
  15. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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  16. KliersLC

    KliersLC

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    Link doesn't work...
     
  17. Trunk Monkey

    Trunk Monkey Moderator

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    El Mariachi has an excellent list of things to check on an 80 series, PM him.
     
  18. TX_TLC

    TX_TLC

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    Are you serious or just pulling a "Junk"? ;)
     
  19. alaskacruiser

    alaskacruiser

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    Semlin- you didn't think I'd let this go, did you?

    1. Some say the 343 tranny is less reliable, some say the 442 is less reliable. A quick survey of posts on this board will find more problems reported with the 442, although problems with both trannies are rare and usually relatively minor. I wouldn't call either tranny troublesome in the least.

    2. The 2 row Aluminum radiator is NOT cheaper than the brass- it is actually more expensive. Cooling performance differences between the two are as yet inconclusive.

    :cheers:
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2006
  20. tucker74

    tucker74 Moderator

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    Holey old thread dig - I don't think some of the new guys even remember Junk's Nazi search antics. Good fun though!

    Tucker