SOR has the EGR gasket for 13 bucks and i believe this is their part number 047-01A-OEM.
Can we make a exhaust/intake manifold sticky? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Zack1978
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1st Toyota parts (https://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/partscat.html) show those for:
25628-61020 Gasket, EGR Inlet MSRP $11.66; Online Price $8.51
25628-61031 Gasket, EGR Inlet MSRP $13.92; Online price $10.16
Is one of these the infamous j-tube gasket that is always leaking? I'm not clear on where these 2 gsakets go?
I have seen the OEM EGR gasket on SOR, but figured it was double what I could get it from CDan or 1st Toyota Parts.
25628-61020 Gasket, EGR Inlet MSRP $11.66; Online Price $8.51
25628-61031 Gasket, EGR Inlet MSRP $13.92; Online price $10.16
Is one of these the infamous j-tube gasket that is always leaking? I'm not clear on where these 2 gsakets go?
I have seen the OEM EGR gasket on SOR, but figured it was double what I could get it from CDan or 1st Toyota Parts.
The infamous J tube piece of poo gasket is the 25628-61020 that seals (using term loosely) the J tube to the bottom of the exhaust manifold.
The other seals the doohickey that is attached to the EGR valve and bolts up to the front of the intake manifold.
p.s.- I had to grab some tissues after seeing Spikestrip's engine again
when you do double gaskets on a header how is it done...The guy at the machine shop told me to use red rtv and sandwich it all together...and also what gaskets do you use? The fel pro, or the paper one that came with my 6into1 header? He also told me NOT to worry about resurfacing, double gaskets would be fine....argh what do I do
The gasket that comes w/ that header = garbage. Using two felpros would be a better option.
I agree with the first statement. However, I used it because I was tight on time and couldn't find a replacement quickly, and after 6 months or so it hasn't leaked, knock on wood.
The best option would be to use one of the original F manifold gaskets. They will seal better with headers.
FWIW -- for anyone who has the in/ex combo off the engine... I stripped these two holes - even with antisieze and torquing 25% lower than spec. I guess after 25 years of heating the Aluminum gets kinda brittle... So if you're going to the machinist, ask for helicoil insert in those spots, maybe even all the threaded holes in the intake -- problem gone, future problems eliminated. 
Scott, he possibly means 17169-61011 ,INSULATOR, EXHAUST MANIFOLD HEAT, NO.3, It is sandwiched between the two insulating gaskets that are between the intake and exhaust manifolds. It is metal and has a formed bend to allow the exhaust manifold diverter butterfly to operate properly.
I tore one up when I was experimenting with rebuilding a manifold combo.
I tore one up when I was experimenting with rebuilding a manifold combo.
Hank, as Joe stated, it's sandwiched (in green) btwn the intake and exh... I used a replacement Stainless plate from SOR -- But it won't allow the butterfly valve to close (stuck in the open position or remove the flap). Fine for warm climes like mine, but slows engine warming if you're in a colder area.
SOR INSULATOR LINK
SOR INSULATOR LINK
That makes sense. I've seen that part on SOR before, but didn't understand what it was for. It's hard to visualize how some of these things go together and function without taking it apart.
I'm getting ready to replace my intake/exhaust gasket next week, and wanted to make sure I didn't need this part or screw up the one I have.
I'm getting ready to replace my intake/exhaust gasket next week, and wanted to make sure I didn't need this part or screw up the one I have.
I am trying to fix a minor intake leak. I was originally just going to retorque the intake bolts/nuts, but now I have the carb, heatshield, air rail off, and I am thinking of replacing the intake/exhaust manifold gasket (1 fel-pro). Can I simply remove mounting bolts/nuts and pull exhust/intake assembly back off the head far enough to get a gasket in there or do I need to disconnect the exhuast down tube and EGR stuff? I would like to do nice complete tear down and build up like Spike Strips, but for now I just want to get the thing back together without that pesky intake leak.
"Can I simply remove mounting bolts/nuts and pull exhust/intake assembly back off the head far enough to get a gasket in there or do I need to disconnect the exhuast down tube and EGR stuff?"
"Can I simply remove mounting bolts/nuts and pull exhust/intake assembly back off the head far enough to get a gasket in there or do I need to disconnect the exhuast down tube and EGR stuff?"
Assy has to be pulled back far enough for the gasket to fit over the studs. Can you do that without removing the down pipe ? Dunno. I doubt it.. But you can leave the cooler tubes attached, and remove the bolts to the cooler (finned cast thing attached to the block), that will allow the manifold assy to slide back -- with the down tube anchor points at the bellhousing removed. Maybe...
But -BUT - you have the leak for a reason: You're going to need to check the straightness of the mating surface of the intake/exh combo, or the leak could possibly return quickly if the surface isn't true. That's why some people go with double gaskets. I have no experience with that.
It's such a PITA to remove that Bast*rd, I don't see why anyone wouldn't want to do it right the first time and be done with it.
But -BUT - you have the leak for a reason: You're going to need to check the straightness of the mating surface of the intake/exh combo, or the leak could possibly return quickly if the surface isn't true. That's why some people go with double gaskets. I have no experience with that.
It's such a PITA to remove that Bast*rd, I don't see why anyone wouldn't want to do it right the first time and be done with it.
I'm pretty sure I've dropped in a gasket without removing the exhaust manifold from the down tube. However, I probably removed the studs to do so. Removal of studs is the same as I described in your other thread about your intake leaks. double jam nut the stud to remove or install. You may need to use thinner nuts to get two on the exposed portion of the thread.
Another thing that might work is to remove the bolts (2 circled in blue) that hold the EGR cooler onto the block and remove the forward clamp that holds the exhaust pipe to the frame. This may give you enough movement to clear the studs.
Another thing that might work is to remove the bolts (2 circled in blue) that hold the EGR cooler onto the block and remove the forward clamp that holds the exhaust pipe to the frame. This may give you enough movement to clear the studs.
Hey gents - are any of you hooligans running aftermarket exhaust parts - I am looking to see what everyone else has, I could give a s*** about how it sounds as opposed to functionality. Just looking for your guys .02
This may be another option. I swear by these on my 22RE motors with headers. The gaskets are NOT cheap, but work amazingly well and I have never had an issue with them after install.
Remflex Header gaskets.
They make an intake/exhaust manifold for a 2F here:
TOYOTA Header/Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Remflex Header gaskets.
They make an intake/exhaust manifold for a 2F here:
TOYOTA Header/Exhaust Manifold Gasket
What is the torque spec for the intake to exhaust manifold bolts?
I have my intake/exhaust assembly off now. This would not be too difficult, but I broke one of the bolts to the EGR down pipe. The PO of my 60 had a Toyota dealership work on the J-tube leak at least 3 times, replacing the actual pipe w/ a new OEM one twice. The must have removed the studs in the exhaust manifold and replaced them with bolts. One of them broke right off. So did my extractor when I seated it in the broken stud and tried to loosen the bolt. Nothing like spending hours on one bolt to test my patience!
The Nut where that holds the J-tube into the EGR cooler was frozen solid as well.
At this point, I'm not sure if I'm going to separate the intake and exhaust manifolds to replace those 2 gaskets. I am going to retorque them and see how it looks.
I have my intake/exhaust assembly off now. This would not be too difficult, but I broke one of the bolts to the EGR down pipe. The PO of my 60 had a Toyota dealership work on the J-tube leak at least 3 times, replacing the actual pipe w/ a new OEM one twice. The must have removed the studs in the exhaust manifold and replaced them with bolts. One of them broke right off. So did my extractor when I seated it in the broken stud and tried to loosen the bolt. Nothing like spending hours on one bolt to test my patience!
The Nut where that holds the J-tube into the EGR cooler was frozen solid as well.
At this point, I'm not sure if I'm going to separate the intake and exhaust manifolds to replace those 2 gaskets. I am going to retorque them and see how it looks.
I/E Manifold Leak-Newbie
I will try to post a picture soon but I think I have this problem with my '89 FJ62. Basically since I have owned the truck there has been a persistent foul odor after I have driven it for a while. The odor is one of burnt oil but the truck does not run low on oil between oil changes. When I look up at the manifolds there seems to be an accumulation of oil near the manifolds. It is not enough to cause a drip but the bolts seem to have oil on them and there appears to be burnt oil around where the manifold meets the head(?).
Please forgive my ignorance but is it this a sure sign of a leaking manifold? If I just want to replace the gasket how many bananas is this job?
I will try to post a pic soon to give you all something more to go on.
Thanks for any help sent my way.
Kenley
I will try to post a picture soon but I think I have this problem with my '89 FJ62. Basically since I have owned the truck there has been a persistent foul odor after I have driven it for a while. The odor is one of burnt oil but the truck does not run low on oil between oil changes. When I look up at the manifolds there seems to be an accumulation of oil near the manifolds. It is not enough to cause a drip but the bolts seem to have oil on them and there appears to be burnt oil around where the manifold meets the head(?).
Please forgive my ignorance but is it this a sure sign of a leaking manifold? If I just want to replace the gasket how many bananas is this job?
I will try to post a pic soon to give you all something more to go on.
Thanks for any help sent my way.
Kenley
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Hm. How the frick do i get that end exhaust bolt? the one that is up near the firewall?
