Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement (8 Viewers)

[spressomon]

#1: Never try to turn the key when there's pressure on the steering lock. We've all probably done it but this leads to breakage of the lock cam. AFAIK there is zero field fix for this. Even if you have the new part getting the anti-theft bolts out in the field would be more PITA...not impossible mind you but something I recommend, after witnessing what this issue is all about on Rusty's '98, doing as a PM measure.

#2: Per Rusty_tlc's thought: Removing the steering column, which involves 4-screws and removal of the lower cross-over air duct, and electrical connectors makes the job easier overall. One person can remove the column but two need to re-install it. After helping him do his I will be pulling the column when I upgrade mine to the redesigned and strengthened part. I'd love to eliminate the steering lock feature...not sure if its as simple as grinding off the lock cam or not. I'll experiment with this when its on the bench with the old part.

#3: We didn't use the anti-theft style bolts that retain the collar assembly to the steering column but rather socket cap style bolts of the same thread and length. I plan to do same just in case it has to come apart in the future for whatever reason.

HTH.

 

[CarbonCruiser]

Before the cam rod breaks, is it bound up and takes additional force to turn the key? Occasionaly I put the key in and the cylinder wont turn so I pull it out, wait a few minutes, and put the key back in and it works fine. Is this a symtom of a soon to be failure?

 

[spressomon]

I don't think there's any warning sign before the part snaps. There's an inherent design flaw in the form of stress riser(s) that contribute to breaking of the cam/shaft. When the steering wheel/column is locked under tension...and turning the key under the same condition it stresses the locking cam and that portion of that intermediate shaft.

The above condition sometimes comes about when parking the rig up against sometime solid, big nose up/down, with the wheel turned so there is back/rotational pressure on the steering system. Sometimes rotating the steering wheel just a little one way or the other, before attempting to turn the key, is enough to take pressure off the locking cam...

 

[AATLAS1X]

Before the cam rod breaks, is it bound up and takes additional force to turn the key? Occasionaly I put the key in and the cylinder wont turn so I pull it out, wait a few minutes, and put the key back in and it works fine. Is this a symtom of a soon to be failure?

Mine has done this a few times a month over the past three years and drives me insane. I'd line to know as well.

 

[GaFJC]

Spresso,

With your experience doing this repair/PM, why the preference to pull the column and do it on a bench vs. repair without pulling the column?

I ask as I know you have a legitimate reason and would like to compare the two methods before I do this as PM.

 

[pwcummings]

I am considering doing this repair as a PM on my 2002. I have read this entire thread and have the feeling that replacing the cam should be considerably easier with an unbroken cam, thus no need to pull apart the entire column and do it on the bench? Also, it would seem that the likelihood of getting the cam orientation wrong (180 out, turns over but doesn't start, etc.) would be sufficiently mitigated?

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[spressomon]

Spresso,

With your experience doing this repair/PM, why the preference to pull the column and do it on a bench vs. repair without pulling the column?

I ask as I know you have a legitimate reason and would like to compare the two methods before I do this as PM.

Apart of the steering column locking mechanism the lock tab is sprung (think of a deadbolt with a spring behind it).

So once you get the intermediate shaft out, assuming you can get it out without pulling the bracket (#45280A, Upper Bracket Assembly; see Trunk Monkey's post #57 of this thread for the parts diagram) that is held in place with the two anti-theft screws, the new shaft/cam can only be inserted when that locking tab is inboard (compressed against its spring). Otherwise the lock tab springs outward to the space occupied by the shaft/cam. There doesn't appear to be a way to compress the lock tab while inserting the intermediate cam shaft...without pulling the bracket; however parnoren did it via his post #33.

So to drill out the anti-theft bolt studs, that retain the bracket that houses the ignition cylinder, etc., its just a whole lot easier with the column on the bench. Limited access is the real issue trying to do this R&R without pulling the column. Not impossible mind you...just much more difficult than pulling the column.

Rusty_tlc has more intimate knowledge of this assembly...I was just his side-kick apart of the R&R

 

[spressomon]

Hey beno: Looks like we might need to put together a group buy on this part/assembly

 

[parnoren]

Quote from Spressomon:
"There's no way to compress the lock tab while inserting the intermediate cam shaft...without pulling the bracket. "

I might be wrong here and it has been a few years since I did this, but when I changed my broken cam rod I didn't have to remove the bracket assembly. The cam rod worked its way in without any problem. I don't remember if I had to use a long screwdriver to hold the lock tab in, or if it wasn't needed. Please see my Post #33.

 

[spressomon]

^ You surely are correct...I stand corrected! We couldn't get the broken cam and shaft portion removed from Rusty's even with extra long needle nose pliers...so decided to cut our losses and just remove the column. Additionally it didn't look like there was an easy way to keep the steering lock tab moved over while inserting the cam shaft...but you did it so it must work!

I'll get to take another look at it when I replace mine...

 

[GaFJC]

I'll get to take another look at it when I replace mine...

I see a Spresso caliber addition coming to the FAQs in the near future...

 

[spressomon]

In yet another twist: I just received my ignition lock cylinder ass'y from CDan and it appears there has yet been another re-design from Toyota for the intermediate shaft.

The version I have is different even from the one Rusty_tlc bought from CDan a few weeks ago .

Here's the repost photo from post #81 of this thread for comparison to my apparent nth (maybe 4th gen??) gen design for the intermediate shaft; photo on the right is the shaft that came out of my '99.

2/22/13 edit: After getting my ignition intermediate shaft swapped this morning I realized there are, at least, 4 different castings for this part. FOUR! WTF?!


Not too much to add to the already good instructions posted here. I pulled the lower HVAC cross-over plastic vent housing to gain access to the back side of the assembly (to remove the two brass colored screws that hold the white plastic housing to the bottom/end side of the ignition housing assembly).

I, since my intermediate shaft was not broken, opted to just swap the newer style intermediate shaft without replacing the entire housing. Still befuddles me, given Toyota has been challenged to design this part so it wouldn't self-destruct during normal use, why we just can't purchase the shaft itself... Right now I wish Woody had a smilie like Jon Harris' avatar: Piss'n on the Sombrero!

 

[GaFJC]

I am in good company as the one I ordered from Sam at Lowe a few weeks back is identical to the one you have Spresso

 

[spressomon]

Two more shots of what needs to be removed, as a minimum, to access the back side of the ignition housing assembly to permit removal of the old intermediate shaft...

HTH someone.

 

[OregonLC]

Remote mounted Escort?

 

[spressomon]

Its my Prodigy brake controller...I set it down to keep it together with the trim pieces. I didn't notice it in the pic until I uploaded the photo.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Start to finish time Dan? On my list of things to do and I'm putting together an agenda

 

[spressomon]

About 2-hours taking my time. That included a little set-aside time for cussing too

I don't know if we have a snowball's chance in a furnace but thinking about pinging a Toyota district rep to bitch about having to buy an essentially throw away housing to get the intermediate shaft they so ineffectively designed (like 4 times!). Probably just a waste of time but I can't let it go


To add: If I had to actually replace the housing I would cut the darn locking tab off per Rusty's suggestion. In the event it snaps in the field at least you'd be able to steer the rig while being pulled. The peace of mind for me outweighs the slight theft deterrent of the steering lock. And, since I have a feeling most of the shafts break when the steering is torqued against that locking cylinder...it might keep if from breaking again.

 

[GaFJC]

About 2-hours taking my time. That included a little set-aside time for cussing too

I don't know if we have a snowball's chance in a furnace but thinking about pinging a Toyota district rep to bitch about having to buy an essentially throw away housing to get the intermediate shaft they so ineffectively designed (like 4 times!). Probably just a waste of time but I can't let it go

To add: If I had to actually replace the housing I would cut the darn locking tab off per Rusty's suggestion. In the event it snaps in the field at least you'd be able to steer the rig while being pulled. The peace of mind for me outweighs the slight theft deterrent of the steering lock. And, since I have a feeling most of the shafts break when the steering is torqued against that locking cylinder...it might keep if from breaking again.

Any tips from the master?

Sent from an outhouse

 

[OregonLC]

To add: If I had to actually replace the housing I would cut the darn locking tab off per Rusty's suggestion. In the event it snaps in the field at least you'd be able to steer the rig while being pulled. The peace of mind for me outweighs the slight theft deterrent of the steering lock. And, since I have a feeling most of the shafts break when the steering is torqued against that locking cylinder...it might keep if from breaking again.

Great idea. Utility trumps security in my book.