Bumps on my 78’s rear tub/fenders? (1 Viewer)

[kiwidog]

Hi Gus,

Agree with Weber Sarge about bolting it down with CS allen screws. If you don't have some of these already, i have found them to do the best job. Can be used with a hand held drill motor.
http://www.norsemandrill.com/Chatterproof-Countersinks.php
Nice table top.

Thanks jb

 

[Gusb]

When I build tables of that sort I always...

Hi Gus,

Agree with Weber Sarge about bolting it down with CS allen screws. If you don't have some of these already...

Sarge - thanks a lot for postings - I actually thought about doing that early on and got off track probably trying to avoid a trip to the hardware store for screws . You/Kiwi got me back on track. I've now got 4 main small welded plates underneath with nuts and everything else taps into the frame. Much easier to take everything apart too, compared to my over-thought welded stud idea.

Jim - I've always liked those chatterproof type countersinks with the hole, but I've only got 1 old, small guy and it's 100*. So I'm using my old (dull) 82s, hand-held - would go a little easier on a Bridgeport

 

[Weber Sarge]

Nice job on the small table . Bet it's a lot easier to move than my overkill 1" thick 28"x72" , legs are 4.5" square 1/4" wall angle welded together .
Sarge

 

[Gusb]

Nice job on the small table . Bet it's a lot easier to move than my overkill 1" thick 28"x72" , legs are 4.5" square 1/4" wall angle welded together .
Sarge

So that would make your top alone about 570 pounds (think my 2 plates weight about 114)? I'm assuming you don't have casters on that table?

 

[Fast Eddy]

Seems like less work to drill and tap regular holes, tack some brackets on the underlying framework and use regular bolts from below.

Looks nice though.

 

[Weber Sarge]

No castors , if you run into it will either bruise or break bones . I intentionally wanted one this heavy and x-cut the top for extreme clamping pressure - north of 50k/lbs for repair jobs . I regularly get trans cases and such that are blown apart or cracked and need the clamping to pull them tight before v-cut and tig welding them . Comes in handy for using fixtures for holding parts together for tacking as well , nothing moves . Total steel weight figured without x-cuts is close to 1100lbs , have to use a jack just to shim the legs level on the old concrete here . The Sprayon welders stainless paint has held really well despite extreme heat and abrasive work against it - highly recommended and it conducts weld current very well .
Sarge

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Table looks great Gus!

Bolting works just fine but you can also weld it on with just a few 1" beads to keep the heat/warp to a minimum. 1" of weld is good for 60-70k lbs so a table top certainly doesn't need a lot to stop it from floating away. Sounds like weber sure has a beefy table! Personally I think the heavier the better when you are tossing diffs, engine blocks and trannies on top or if you use it like an anvil doing sheet metal patches etc. Mine is 1/2" plate about 72" x 30" with 2x3" tube legs and adjustable feet. I use a floor jack to lift/roll it and move it by dragging the other end. It's too heavy to move by myself otherwise.

But I don't think you need anything more than what you built there. You can always make a bigger one if the need arises.

 

[Weber Sarge]

I need a second one when we move , planning on 4'x10' next time - sticking with 1" , works excellent .
Sarge

 

[Gusb]

New sheet metal tool for the garage. A little piece of railroad from the local steel shop.

 

[Gusb]

Found metal seat backs on eBay (thanks to Kiwi Dog) that I think came off a 1975. Seem in pretty good shape, good silver paint sample on the protected side, few dings, scrapes and patina on the outside back. Banged on these a little. Had thought that discolored spot in the lower center (of 1 panel) might be an original label and it looks like it is. I'll just put them on for now (when I find screws) and think about refinishing or not. Like everything else, the seats still need more work anyway

Looking for Toyota screws/hardware and there's no clear diagram anywhere I can find showing the steel seat plate. Guy who sold me the plates says he may be able to find the screws.

 

[skidplate]

A little late in the conversation, but here's a little gem that was in my Dad's tool box that I inherited. The only marking says "Los Angeles"

 

[Gusb]

A little late in the conversation, but here's a little gem that was in my Dad's tool box that I inherited. The only marking says "Los Angeles"

Nice - City of Angels hammer

 

[Gusb]

New toys - light and heavy. The J28 has it's little reverse-flow valves attached.

 

[toomanytoyzz]

A little late in the conversation, but here's a little gem that was in my Dad's tool box that I inherited. The only marking says "Los Angeles"View attachment 1083362

Probably a Plomb(Plvmb) brand hammer. They started in LA, and are now Proto. Nice little hammer you inherited.

 

[JohnnyC]

For the seat screws... I think they are the same as the jump seat screws... Sor has those

You may want to call and confirm

 

[Gusb]

For the seat screws... I think they are the same as the jump seat screws... Sor has those

You may want to call and confirm

SOR has an aftermarket set (as do others, I think), but they're not much like stock from what I can tell in the photos. Just a small detail but if I put a bunch of time into redoing the seats in future I'd like to find some original hardware. This picture I grabbed online somewhere a few years back is a 78 I think. The 2 eBay panels I just bought still have what I seems like some old paper label attached.

 

[wscbill]

The seat decal is discussed here.

 

[Gusb]

Thanks for the link wscbill.

 

[Gusb]

Holder for the J28 - don't know yet if it will work that well...

 

[Gusb]

Patch for toasted mounting flange on my transmission cover (driver's side). Seems like that area always gathers moisture. Last time the trans cover was off I didn't have a welder.