Builds building a landcruiser for overland expedition (1 Viewer)

Should we paint Nulla’s camper cab blue?

  • Yes

    Votes: 5 38.5%
  • No

    Votes: 8 61.5%

  • Total voters
    13
  • Poll closed .

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thanks for playing the devil's advocate, very much appriciated, i do want of cover all basis, as i mention i have time.

the intercooler i am looking at will fit in front of the radiator on the area between the head light, that opening on the front grill.

Ok as long as it doesnt impede airflow to the radiator

yes there will be an air condition and power steering as well. i am told that the power steering requires very little modification, it is a "bolt on".

thanks:bounce::bounce2:

If your using the 4* series PS it will be a bolt on and a big improvement;)
 
pop top - ideas????

i am trying to cut down the weight of the pop top, currently it is made of aluminum. what other material can i use to make it lighter. i check on nida core but i find it almost impossible to get. what about making keeping the frame aluminum and making the top cover into a canvas. looking for ideas if you have one let me know..... thanks :bounce::bounce2:
 
i am trying to cut down the weight of the pop top, currently it is made of aluminum. what other material can i use to make it lighter. i check on nida core but i find it almost impossible to get. what about making keeping the frame aluminum and making the top cover into a canvas. looking for ideas if you have one let me know..... thanks :bounce::bounce2:

How much does it weigh and how much do want to lose?

We can upgrade the springs in oz and get a plate fitted that increases the legal load another 500-600kg
Maybe you can find an engineer who would work with you.
 
fuel tank mock up

in preparation for our our second trip to Laser Cutting Northwest we are now building the mock up for the second fuel tank (pictured below). the card board pattern will be mailed to LCNW. this process will save us some time on the design.

the aluminum tank will have over 60 gallon capacity, it will be located "below" the rear passenger seat. as you can see by the drawing the rear floor will be cut out to accommodate the fuel tank. we will then build a sealed "floor" over the tank. the rear bench seat will lay over the tank on the "floor". i believe a gallon of diesel weight 8 lbs, so that the tank when full will be 480 lbs. i think the factory fuel tank hold 17 gallons, therefore, our total fuel capacity will be about 80 gallons. the factory fuel tank is located about 8" forward of the second tank we are installing. this will greatly lower the center of gravity of the cruiser.

does anyone know the ohm resistance on the factory sending unit on a 1981 hj 47?

we are looking forward to our drive, and of course exited to arrive at LCNW in Auburn, Washington.

thank :bounce::bounce2:
cabin vier.jpg
below cabin vier.jpg
tank.jpg
 
What about fiberglass? That would be light and leave you less exposed to weather than canvas
 
What about fiberglass? That would be light and leave you less exposed to weather than canvas

are you talking about the pop top? on the pop top i am doing a comparison between fiber glass and aluminum. cost and weight are a factor. i am finding that fiber glass is not always lighter.:bounce::bounce2:
 
wow really? interesting! That's really surprising. There's always carbon-fiber... my cousin uses it to make skateboard decks... I think it's meant to have an awesome strength to weight ratio. Pretty expensive though.
 
wow really? interesting! That's really surprising. There's always carbon-fiber... my cousin uses it to make skateboard decks... I think it's meant to have an awesome strength to weight ratio. Pretty expensive though.

Carbon fiber is indeed very strong and lightweight. As strong and light as it is though, it is very, very expensive. Very expensive.

But it can be worked almost identically to fiberglass, although using a vacuum to form the parts helps keep the carbon fiber really lightweight.

I'd go with canvas if it was me.

Very nice build! Can't wait to see the 12HT in there!

Dan
 
great build up! :cool: and also very interesting, thanks for sharing rideglobally.

just out of curiosity, are you consider a "later" 6x6 conversion for your expedition project?

:beer:
 
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just out of curiosity, are you consider a "later" 6x6 conversion for your expedition project?

:beer:[/QUOTE]

i actually considered that in the very early stage, but i was not satisfied with the cost and the quality of the products i found. i spoke to 6x6 Australia, but they won't ship a "kit" in the USA. at this point i have no plan to do a 6x6 conversion, but i am open to it if there is an opportunity that come up that i can afford and the quality is good, especially now that i am doing a 12ht conversion.:bounce::bounce2:
 
Great project - I can only admire how much work you are accomplishing in your "spare time"!

I read somewhere a suggestion that might work for the poptop. Those large illuminated shop signs are molded out of plastic in almost any size and shape. Perhaps a lexan version would work, and be strong enough.

Good luck with the build!
 
i am trying to cut down the weight of the pop top, currently it is made of aluminum. what other material can i use to make it lighter. i check on nida core but i find it almost impossible to get. what about making keeping the frame aluminum and making the top cover into a canvas. looking for ideas if you have one let me know..... thanks :bounce::bounce2:

Go with much much thinner gauge aluminum and put diagnol creases (similar to sheet metal ducting) or stamp ribs in it to add stiffness. Unless you want to stand on the poptop (you may want an outdoor sleep platform/viewing area when the top is not raised), you should not need anywhere near as thick as what you used for the flat panel single walls of the main shell. Canvas may not be secure enough for peice of mind if you leave the truck parked somewhere. Plus with a hard shell you can add some light insulation (important for all weather camping).
 
Go with much much thinner gauge aluminum and put diagnol creases (similar to sheet metal ducting) or stamp ribs in it to add stiffness. Unless you want to stand on the poptop (you may want an outdoor sleep platform/viewing area when the top is not raised), you should not need anywhere near as thick as what you used for the flat panel single walls of the main shell. Canvas may not be secure enough for peice of mind if you leave the truck parked somewhere. Plus with a hard shell you can add some light insulation (important for all weather camping).

thanks, after much research it has been very difficult to find composite material that meets my needs, unless of course cost is a non issue. i am now pretty sure i am going the aluminum route, as you suggested thinner. :bounce::bounce2:
 
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engine conversion Day 1

Today we turned another chapter of the Nulla cruiser’s build. We began the day by picking up the 12 HT engine from the distribution warehouse in Compton, California. Edy’s Auto Repair & Auto Body will do the conversion. Nulla’s power plant will be replaced from the current 2H to a 12HT. Edy’s Auto Repair is located at 949 W. 66th Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90044 (corner of 66th Ave and Vermont) Phone # 323 758 1833 or IH8MUD Banner Advertising. Other conversion will include:
• 5 speed transmission
• Air condition
• Power steering
• Rear differential lockers from vacuum powered to manual
• Heavy duty clutch

The 2H engine, 4 speed transmission, transfer case and other accessories that we are removing from the Nullacruiser are for sale for 2,000 dollars. I have also posted on ih8mud classified here is the link https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-jdm...-w-all-accessories-transmission-etc-sale.html.

We will do our best to keep you posted on our daily progress. We look forward to working with Edy’s Auto Repair here in our hometown the City of Angels.:bounce::bounce2:
edy's auto.jpg
12ht.jpg
 
Go with much much thinner gauge aluminum and put diagnol creases (similar to sheet metal ducting) or stamp ribs in it to add stiffness. Unless you want to stand on the poptop (you may want an outdoor sleep platform/viewing area when the top is not raised), you should not need anywhere near as thick as what you used for the flat panel single walls of the main shell. Canvas may not be secure enough for peice of mind if you leave the truck parked somewhere. Plus with a hard shell you can add some light insulation (important for all weather camping).

thanks, after much research it has been very difficult to find composite material that meets my needs, unless of course cost is a non issue. i am now pretty sure i am going the aluminum route, as you suggested thinner. :bounce::bounce2:

Hat channels make for very good stiffeners. Glue them to the inside side of the AL sheet using a metal to metal auto body adhesive. Hat channels look like the cross section of a hat. You can make them yourself if you wish. You can even curve them along their length.
 
engine conversion Day 2

Today we started to break down and take Nullacruiser apart. Take a look at the pictures. Tomorrow we should finish and be able to take the engine out. We will begin to prep the engine bay for painting. Enjoy....:bounce::bounce2:
group.jpg
engine bay.jpg
 
Engine conversion day 3

The conversion of the Nullacruiser engine is now at the point of no return. It reminded us of last August when we took the rear cab off at Laser Cutting Northwest.

By the way if you like pupusas, tamales, champorado and meeting the Los Angeles natives you will like the corner where Edy’s Auto Repair is located. The corner is Vermont and 66th Ave in Los Angeles. 8 AM on a Saturday has it all. This morning I was there to start day 3 of the conversion and had the Pupusas. They were the best! The tamales are next.

Monday we will get the engine bay rust free and ready for painting:bounce::bounce2:
that is Edy.jpg
Luis.jpg
 
Engine conversion day 4

Today we installed the heavy-duty clutch, cleaned and sanded the engine compartment for painting.

The 2H has been sold.

Tomorrow we vote for Obama!!!!

thanks :bounce::bounce2:
clutch.jpg
 

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