Broken Petcock Radiator Fix (1 Viewer)

[csd1982]

Hi All,

I broke off my Petcock Radiator plug. I wan to fix it myself. I tried to use a sliver braze solder wire with a benzomatic propane torch but it would not heat the surface to melt the silver braze solder. I therefore had to use regular solder for plumbing of copper pipes. The torch heated the radiator enough to melt the solder but it was too weak.

Home Depot people did not know anything about brazing.

I think I will now try with this torch: Bernzomatic OX2550KC Oxy/Map-Pro Torch Kit-331673 - The Home Depot

Do you think this will be hot enough to braze the OEM FJ40 radiator? This actually comes with brazing rods.

Also I need to bend my sm465 shifter and my AA 4wd high and low dual shifters as well. Do you think this torch will be hot enough for that too?

From what I have read on the web it should work for both but wanted to get a experst opinion on the site.

 

[JohnnyC]

I use map gas torch to repair heater cores ... I would think it should work for that as well

I am far from expert on the subject however

 

[Helipilot]

Map gas should burn hot enough to do what you want. Good Luck!

 

[Pin_Head]

Radiator guys use solder that melts with a propane torch. There is no advantage to silver soldering brass or copper.

 

[bikersmurf]

You'll likely need to use acid flux to clean the area to be soldered. Never had luck myself.

 

[73FJ40]

I'd suggest you buff the tank and the petcock to shiny metal, then, using lots of acid flux, puddle solder on the tank. Once solder is sticking to the tank, heat the petcock with lots of flux and ensure there's fresh solder on the surface facing the tank. Finally, flux both the tank and the petcock, heat the petcock (away from the soldered end) while pressing up against the tank. The heat from the petcock should get the solder to flow on the tank, push the two together and hold still til the solder freezes.

If you heat the two pieces from the middle of the joint, contaminates from the torch will pollute the solder, preventing it from sealing properly.

 

[emac]

Just in case your repair doesn't work out, new OEM rads are still available (beno). My petcock was stuck and plugged with so much gunk, I just didn't think it was worth it to try to repair. New one even comes with a cap!

 

[emac]

Just in case your repair doesn't work out, new OEM rads are still available (beno). My petcock was stuck and plugged with so much gunk, I just didn't think it was worth it to try to repair. New one even comes with a cap!

 

[firestopper]

Radiator guys use solder that melts with a propane torch. There is no advantage to silver soldering brass or copper.

I think with the proper equipment to apply silver solder to repair a petcock would yield a stronger join than a solder joint.

Solder will work fine but the advantage of silver braze is joint strength for those future stubborn petcocks.

 

[Pin_Head]

The issue is that both solder joints are stronger than the thin copper or brass that radiators are made of.

 

[73FJ40]

You should be happy the solder broke before the radiator tank tore apart. If it had been a stronger solder, you'd be looking at spending big bucks for a new radiator.

 

[firestopper]

Ok, I appreciate your point for sure, but the heavy bushing that is soldered at the radius potion of the rad is pretty stout as well as the surrounding area (at least on my 82) and soldier is softer than silver. Would it be wrong to use silver solder for repair, probably not but requires more heat and experience. I would hope if one felt the rad buckling during a stubborn petcock encounter would stop wrenching. Then low heat could be applied to assist in breaking free without melting joint. Just a thought, not an expert in anything fellas just practicing for a while.

 

[Pin_Head]

I was under the impression that the threaded bushing / flange is what ripped out of the radiator tank and needed to be soldered back in. That is the way I have seen them fail. If not, then my comments may not be appropriate.