Brake problems.. after new pads, shoes, wheel cylinders. (1 Viewer)

[onelesssblues]

Bleed order should be MC, RL, RR, FL, FR Always go from the farthest away to closest. If you look at how the lines run you will see which is the greatest distance.


Dynosaor

Woops, Dynosoar is right, that is the order I did it.
Try manually adjusting the rear brakes out till they are touching drive down the street, recheck to see if they are still touching. If not adjust out a few more clicks until touching. Drive down street. Repeat. If you are having the same problem I am, keep manually adjusting out till the pedal firms up, even over a few days the shoes will finally settle into place. Otherwise it sounds like a bleeding problem.
-dk

 

[thadl]

i read in another thread about bleeding the proportioning valve, haven't seen it mentioned again...do we need to bleed it...where in the bleed sequence does it fall

 

[onelesssblues]

i read in another thread about bleeding the proportioning valve, haven't seen it mentioned again...do we need to bleed it...where in the bleed sequence does it fall

FJ62s only. i wasted a decent amount of time looking for that until I was sure my car didnt have it.

 

[thadl]

FJ62s only. i wasted a decent amount of time looking for that until I was sure my car didnt have it.

I have a 62 and can't solve my brake problem. Reading every thing I can. Anyone know where the proportioning valve falls in the sequence.

 

[ambulancechser]

Ditto on Master cylinder replacement.

It is possible to damage your (previously working) master cylinder when you bleed your brakes. If you let your pedal go further toward the floor (with the bleeders open) than it did when the system was closed, you can push the MC piston further than it's normal travel - With a new MC that's OK, with an old one you end up pushing the piston into the rust and pitting often found at the end of an older cylinder, thus wrecking it.

Hopefully that's not what happened, but your description of the pedal going right to the floor is worrying me a bit...

( And definitely check your brake booster for fluid if you have been losing fluid and can't figure out where- I found about 1/3 liter in mine)

exactly what i did...ruined an otherwise funtional master.this led to total master cylinder failure in traffic.which was loads of fun.mind you,the master was oem,and had near 400,000 k on it,but was still working until i dared to touch it

 

[DrivingMissRosey]

Make up some lines that run back into the reservoir, fill the reservoir and depress the piston until you have both lines flowing with no air bubbles. I had to pinch off one line that was flowing to force fluid thru the other line then released the pinched line and pumped til both were flowing. I used clear tubing I was using to bleed my brakes. Worked great.

Thanks for this. Lots of people mention a bench bleed but none indicate what it actually is. Now I just need to track down the right thread fittings to make such a set-up....

Edit: I've now got the right pipe threads, metal piping and a siphon to extract the fluid out of the old mc. It seems to me though that the "bench bleed" has to be done in the vehicle, not at your bench so the term "bench bleed" seems incorrect.

 

[haryv]

If you have not done it already, did you flush the brake system? That is one of the reasons the wheel cylinder seals fail, because of inner wheel cylinder corrosion. It may not be as bad as a problem in your area where it is dry, but up here, its a big deal. I am also now getting in the habbit of asking customers to have there master cylinders dissembled and cleaned every 10 years. Why? because my truck lost most all its brakes one day...without warning so thought, it is a good idea to do it on all cars and trucks.

I was lucky it happened at a intersection, instead of some steep hillside. I removed the master, and the end was filled with rust and crap. So, cleaned it, replaced the seals, then flushed the system.

Generally flushing every two years removed moisture in the brake fluid, which migrates down to the wheel cylinder and corrode them. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water like a sponge. . The master cylinder reservoir is vented to the atmosphere, so thus, moisture eventually gets into the fluid. The corrosion acts like a abrasive chewing up the piston seals over times causing leaks.