Bought a 2nd 100 - 2003, clean...completely lifeless (1 Viewer)

[loganbrew]

Purchased a 2003 LC from its original owner this week. Lived its entire life on the NM/TX boarder, has 285,000 "highway" miles, a 1" stack of service records, and one of the cleanest bodies I've seen.

Unfortunately for the seller his mechanic never did a preventative replacement of the notorious heater hose T fittings. While driving in the middle of nowhere a fitting broke and emptied all the coolant...engine quit and has never started again. Seller was completely up front, assumed an engine replacement is needed and priced at $2,000.

So today I did a compression test and concluded I'll be replacing the engine. Search already started here Wanted: - 2UZ-FE Engine from LC100/LX470, low miles. Results are so low I won't even attempt a HG replacement. But two questions came to mind:
1) The starter runs an additional 7 seconds after I release the key from start position. My 2000 has never done this in 14 years ownership (nor any car I've ever owned), but is it normal for the 2003 starter to remain energized for 6-8 seconds after key is released if the engine hasn't started?
2) What is the potential damage to the transmission from the overheating event and emptied rad? When I ran OBD scan there were zero codes, yet several incomplete monitors, so I'll bet the PO's mechanic cleared all codes. The A/T OIL TEMP dash light is ON, but fluid doesn't appear/smell burned.

View attachment 1312707

 

[tacoduck]

damn nice find for 2k. My guess is the trans would be fine, but why not rebuild that as well. 2k for a low mile engine plus 3k for a new trans plus 2k for the truck = 7 grand for a bulletproof truck.

 

[shibubba]

As for the cranking for 7 seconds after key release... I'd hazard a guess that is the " crank hold feature " 2003+ that is normal.

My 05+ does the same thing.

 

[Simplespirit]

The key/starter thing is normal and was added in 2003. They call it "crank hold" or something like that. I just turn the key and let go. Kind of nice once you get used to it. I'd get the trans checked out and go from there. No way would I rebuild it just because. If you do want to replace it I'd find a used one first. That or send it to Japan to be rebuilt.

 

[cwmoser]

Out of curiosity, how hard is it to pull an LX/LC engine?
Are the Bell Housing bolts easy to get access to?
Has anyone documented the process?

 

[04UZJ100]

How far did you tow and illegally exceed your tow vehicle's capabilities?

 

[2001LC]

Purchased a 2003 LC from its original owner this week. Lived its entire life on the NM/TX boarder, has 285,000 "highway" miles, a 1" stack of service records, and one of the cleanest bodies I've seen.

Unfortunately for the seller his mechanic never did a preventative replacement of the notorious heater hose T fittings. While driving in the middle of nowhere a fitting broke and emptied all the coolant...engine quit and has never started again. Seller was completely up front, assumed an engine replacement is needed and priced at $2,000.

So today I did a compression test and concluded I'll be replacing the engine. Search already started here Wanted: - 2UZ-FE Engine from LC100/LX470, low miles. Results are so low I won't even attempt a HG replacement. But two questions came to mind:
1) The starter runs an additional 7 seconds after I release the key from start position. My 2000 has never done this in 14 years ownership (nor any car I've ever owned), but is it normal for the 2003 starter to remain energized for 6-8 seconds after key is released if the engine hasn't started?
2) What is the potential damage to the transmission from the overheating event and emptied rad? When I ran OBD scan there were zero codes, yet several incomplete monitors, so I'll bet the PO's mechanic cleared all codes. The A/T OIL TEMP dash light is ON, but fluid doesn't appear/smell burned.

View attachment 1312706

View attachment 1312707

That is so clean, nice find. Since trans fluid smell good I'd not worry, you can always swap-out later.
I'm curious; what was compression results of each cylinder?

Edited: You didn't haul with wheel straps off right! Might be a good idea to blur your plates, wouldn't want U-Haul to black list.

 

[loganbrew]

Thanks for all the responses and confirmation on the crank hold feature!

That is so clean, nice find. Since trans fluid smell good I'd not worry, you can always swap-out later.
I'm curious; what was compression results of each cylinder?

Edited: You didn't haul with wheel straps off right! Might be a good idea to blur your plates, wouldn't want U-Haul to black list.

Compression readings ranged between 0 and 35 psi. I only measured a couple cylinders each side. Didn't do them all given the initial readings and the fact that each cylinder had water droplets pumped/deposited into the plug pack cavities after cranking. Two cylinders threw water completely out (~1cc volume) onto the top of the valve covers. Moreover, even with a strong battery and no plugs, the engine doesn't turn at a constant speed. The rotation speed varies significantly, which I attribute to highly variable resistance among the reciprocating components. This was confirmed both with and without accessory belt installed. TB looks good.

The front wheel straps didn't adequately cover the wheels. Instead the two, 2-ton come-along restraints installed at the rear serve to prevent backward movement and compress the rear suspension. The front ratchet straps compress the front suspension. The combined restraints prevent horizontal movement and eliminate dynamic forces, which would otherwise be generated from vertical oscillation of the truck's sprung weight. This was a flatland tow with no grade exceeding 5%. Had the route gone trough a mountain range or higher grades the hitch capacity would have generated more concern for a safe tow.

damn nice find for 2k. My guess is the trans would be fine, but why not rebuild that as well. 2k for a low mile engine plus 3k for a new trans plus 2k for the truck = 7 grand for a bulletproof truck.

Most likely I'll only replace the engine at this time. No way I know of to evaluate the trans without loading it or opening it completely. If I later determine a trans replacement is justified it will be quite a bit more work, but it's not like this is a DD. It's a truck to satisfy my wrenching hobby and build into a dedicated overland/expedition rig.

BTW, owner was originally asking $2250, but when he learned I'm a Texas Aggie he immediately dropped to $2k. He bought the truck in 2003 at the College Station Toyota dealer while visiting his son, who was in attendance at Texas A&M. The solidarity of the Aggie network never ceases!!

 

[TeCKis300]

That combo is over 8k+ lbs.

I'm not going to question the legality of it... But I am curious. How did she tow in the flats and hills?

 

[SWUtah]

Great find! Grand daughter going to A&M this year.

 

[HFDPNL]

@loganbrew We're in the same neck of the woods with the same color/era 100s, need to grab a beer sometime, or maybe I can watch you pull that motor on the new one....oh, and we both have the ring.

@SWUtah for a moment I was scared for you, but you're grandpa, so a little less angst.....then I remembered I have a 6 mo old girl and started getting nervous for myself!...In seriousness though, the guys up there are generally gentlemen,...I'm sure @loganbrew will agree!

 

[loganbrew]

That combo is over 8k+ lbs.

I'm not going to question the legality of it... But I am curious. How did she tow in the flats and hills?

Appreciate your concern - the decision was based on calculated understanding of capacities and the particular circumstances of my route. The combo is right at or below 7000 lbs. Max 5500 curb (no payload) for LC + 1500 max trailer. Tank was near empty, empty cooling system and 3rd row thrown into my 2000 for good measure. Doubt the 6500 hitch capacity was exceeded more than 5%, which is well within any safety margin, especially without grade.

The 2000 performed flawlessly without even a blip on the temp gauge; the 2003 behaved like an honor-roll student.

 

[SWUtah]

@loganbrew We're in the same neck of the woods with the same color/era 100s, need to grab a beer sometime, or maybe I can watch you pull that motor on the new one....oh, and we both have the ring.

@SWUtah for a moment I was scared for you, but you're grandpa, so a little less angst.....then I remembered I have a 6 mo old girl and started getting nervous for myself!...In seriousness though, the guys up there are generally gentlemen,...I'm sure @loganbrew will agree!

Her Dad is 6'5" 285# so for their sake I hope they are gentlemen

 

[loganbrew]

@SWUtah - my wife glanced at my screen while your pic was up... she concluded I'm being completely unproductive so now I have to get started my Sunday honey-do list...

@HFDPNL - definitely! I'll PM you contact info.

For any H-town locals reading this and have a cherry picker, I'd appreciate an opportunity to borrow with Shiner Bock compensation. I let go of mine years ago with a Datsun 280Z project I sold. It was replaced with a Porsche, so having a hoist around was pointless.

 

[TeCKis300]

Max 5500 curb (no payload) for LC + 1500 max trailer.

Not judging at all. Nor can most here that build their hundies to tank like proportions, way exceeding the stated capacities. But then that's why we have hundies, cause we know they are overbuilt and can handle the stresses with key mods.

I've used those uhaul car haulers a number of times. They are really well built and stable. BTW, they are either 2300 or 2500lbs depending whether they are the newer or older gen. So looks like your hundy handles 8000k lbs well.

 

[mattafact]

Out of curiosity, how hard is it to pull an LX/LC engine?
Are the Bell Housing bolts easy to get access to?
Has anyone documented the process?

It's not awful but it's not fun. There are 10 bell housing bolts. @punkrockpoppa was able to get 6 removed from the bottom fairly easily. The top 4 required me to sit on top of the engine and get from the top. While you're up there you can get the 2 grounds that attach to the back of the head and start removing the endless wiring. The big harness that runs over the engine comes off pretty easily but it helps to remove the AC compressor to remove the oil pressure switch and crank position sensor.

The worst part of the whole process was the exhaust because we wasted hours not realizing the manifold on the replacement engine was bent from the collision. The 2nd worst part was the trans cooler lines. @punkrockpoppa can attest to the misery spent on that. If we were to do it again I think we would have removed the passenger side exhaust manifold since it frees up so much room for those.

He got the engine from an LX with 92k miles for $950. It was crashed so we had to switch the timing belt covers, the water pump, timing belt, exhaust manifold and one of the cam gear covers because of damage.

The whole project took us 4 solid days but if it wasn't 106 degrees out and the exhaust wasn't bent it would have gone a bit faster. Running for parts like the oil filter housing oring, exhaust gaskets, water bypass gaskets etc ate up a ton of time.

I think we could shave at least a day off it if we had to do it again.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for all the responses and confirmation on the crank hold feature!



Compression readings ranged between 0 and 35 psi. I only measured a couple cylinders each side. Didn't do them all given the initial readings and the fact that each cylinder had water droplets pumped/deposited into the plug pack cavities after cranking. Two cylinders threw water completely out (~1cc volume) onto the top of the valve covers. Moreover, even with a strong battery and no plugs, the engine doesn't turn at a constant speed. The rotation speed varies significantly, which I attribute to highly variable resistance among the reciprocating components. This was confirmed both with and without accessory belt installed. TB looks good.

The front wheel straps didn't adequately cover the wheels. Instead the two, 2-ton come-along restraints installed at the rear serve to prevent backward movement and compress the rear suspension. The front ratchet straps compress the front suspension. The combined restraints prevent horizontal movement and eliminate dynamic forces, which would otherwise be generated from vertical oscillation of the truck's sprung weight. This was a flatland tow with no grade exceeding 5%. Had the route gone trough a mountain range or higher grades the hitch capacity would have generated more concern for a safe tow.
** !

I would have stop testing at that point as well.

FYI: Tire straps are main securing straps, other ties are just safety straps. Or so U-Haul techs said each time I've rented one.

 

[ponytl]

you can read my threads on engine replacement... i've done it a couple times.. it isn't hard most any 4.7 will work if you do the labor... and do all the things you should at the time it should top out at $1500 max

 

[shibubba]

I'm going to ask, as I think it is pertinent information for the OP and me down the line.... Will a 2uzfe from a tundra also work? I know they are VERY common but I also know there are slight differences ( con rods )

 

[cwmoser]

I'm not no young stud - I'm 68. I pulled the Engine and Transmission out of my
Isuzu Trooper a couple years ago. This was on a "bucket list" of things I wanted to
do in my life. First and only time I had attempted an Engine or Transmission removal.
It was from a wrecked vehicle and the frame damage made the process more difficult.
I sold the Engine and Transmission and then sold my Engine Stand and Crane
this year - used only once. If I can do it, I suppose anyone can do it. BUT, it was
a lengthy and time consuming job.