Bolt on turbo upgrade now available - 12HT/1HDT and 1HD-FT (1 Viewer)

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I can't see the complete vid .. :frown:

There are a few vids, I quickly loaded what I thought was the most important vid for now - what it does at 2000rpm and below.

Simply because shows what absolutely cannot be done with the stock CT26.The other important one is exhaust smoke which is done at the worst point (~3000rpm). Bear in mind also the situation (no snorkle, hot day, hot engine, hot engine bay, no intercooler, stock engine)

I made the point about "great boost and only 75cc of fuel". The reason for this is the relationship between fuel flow and exhaust energy. We are getting 16-17psi at only 1600rpm here without dumping in heaps of fuel. This means that the result is clean and sustainable and safe.

Over the weekend I will add a few more. I have a bit of a time crisis. I do 95% of my posts while at work since I am at my desk almost all day. Loading up Youtube vids or compressing them off the recorded format is not something I can do in work time....unfortunately
 
Another vid posted last night that shows exhaust smoke and 92kw @ 3000rpm

Follow the link to the other video and it is by the same listed person (ozholiday)

I must admit, in the excitement I didnt take good video and I need to work on my narration....
 
It should work great. Just get yourself a 1HDT EM from Toyota (~$400). This turbo works find at 7psi which you would probably get from 1400rpm onwards with an intercooler.
 
I already have the manifold and an almost new CT26 bolted up to it. Would you consider a core exchange?

Unfortunately you will need the whole thing, a core change wont get you all the benefits and wont fit anyway - the compressor for example is a different design/shape. I am sourcing parts now (heaps of CT26 locally) and dont need to exchange the core any longer. This saves alot on postage. Better to sell off your old turbo as low km good condition.
 
What do you mean?
Stock 2h with turbo and ic here...

Sent from Android Tapatalk

There is/was a 2H in Europe (youtube vid) that ran 8.5mm injector elements and big turbo off a Scania 12L truck. It made alot of power (and smoke....)

160cc of fuel.....

Just wondering if it were yours?
 
The base fuel setting on teh 12HT tested has been set to factory now and doesnt smoke any longer when you first "tap" the throttle. A few people commented that it smoked when I said it didnt. Well, it doesnt smoke under boost and didnt smoke coming on to boost either before that screw was tampered with. All good now. I meant to video it on the road over the weekend but got too busy, hopefully this week.

You will see that it is very clean. And next time on the dyno, I will make the video more professional.
 
How do you know if you are on factory setting with the fuel screw? can one set it but simply turning it in all the way until its tight, the back it off say 5 full turns? (5 is just an example) ??
 
Its not so scientific for this one. The screw on the firewall side of the pump is wound in and out until when the throttle is "stabbed" is hardly blows smoke but still has enough torque when taking off without boost. Since we know how much smoke they normally blow when driving/stabbing the throttle, we find it is the best technique. Its all about the smoke (I really hate smoke) - of course it assumes good injectors, pump and engine generally or it will probably blow smoke whatever the setting.

How do you know if you are on factory setting with the fuel screw? can one set it but simply turning it in all the way until its tight, the back it off say 5 full turns? (5 is just an example) ??
 
The rear screw is much harder to get to on a manual with the power clutch. I also have a crowded engine bay, assuming I didn't need to get to my Injection pump to fiddle.
That was until I met GBentink :)

The rear screw is not an Allen key screw like the max fuel. Instead it is just a normal flat cut suited for a flat screwdriver. This makes it quite awkward to adjust carefully and accurately. a short fat screwdriver is best I found.

What happened first time was that I was having so much trouble adjusting it in position that I removed it completely, taken a punt on the correct position

I cleared up the thread and locknut and screwed it back in to what i thought was okay and went off for the dyno run. It really wasn't okay at all but did give me more off boost power. Far too much off boost smoke low down on take off. It would clear by 1200rpm or less with the turbo blowing a bit of air in.

A day or so later, I attacked the task again with vigor an unwound it a turn which seems about right. I get a small puff of smoke stabbing it, but none under normal acceleration. Like GB says, it's not very scientific!

Guys don't be too scared of these things. Make small adjustments and see what happens. If you keep track of what you've done you can always move it back, it's just a screw on a thread!

Tim
 
Just a little heads up. I have a customer in Canada who fitted the turbo and has been running around for a few days.

Rather than stealing his thunder, I'll let him post when he has a bit more info.

Let me just say that he his happy :cool:
 
Yes, with 170cc of fuel, higher rpm governer and 40+psi boost, it is destined for big numbers. I just love the old "just bolt it on" mentality sometimes - its just so much fun!

Mind you, the temps before the boost rises would be metal melting..... and a 1000rpm power band isnt quite wide enough.... :p


Man that things got some grunt,landcruiser or locomotive?
 

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