Blue fan clutch mod...Thread has gone to hell, read at your own risk (1 Viewer)

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Yeh, both on the shards. I gave it a couple of squirts with the brake cleaner and then wiped it down good.

I was surprised how tight the adjustment screws were screwed in. I started with a regular screw driver and after no dice, hit it with the impact driver which worked great on the one, but unfortunately the other had been accidentally hit with a dose of righty-tighty, so that was my fault.

I'll shoot you some info tomorrow if he yota dealer down the street doesn't have them.

Thanks again.
 
those philip screws are actually a Japanese philips which is different than ours. If you use one of ours it's a good idea to place the screw driver in place and give it a couple of firm hits with a hammer so the head forms to our tip. I would place the piece on some indoor/outdoor carpet to help protect the housing.
 
Makes sense now that you mention it. I wasn't getting a very snug fit with any of the #2's I put on it.
 
Ordered one of the Amazon clutches. I don't know if it's been mentioned in the thread yet but they look to be sending actual blue hub versions. I was curious of the variances in start/adjustments that are possible. Opened mine up and the factory setting was damn close looking to where the pix show LX. So after seeing the pix LX posted and reading that surf pig ended up with the same start / finish I just eye balled it lol. Total time. From unbox to (start of) drain. Six min.



 
Ordered one of the Amazon clutches. I don't know if it's been mentioned in the thread yet but they look to be sending actual blue hub versions.

Aisin=Toyota, same part, different box
 
Aisin=Toyota, same part, different box

Oh I know they are the "same part". I just found it I interesting because I have replaced these on three other cruisers and the part that came in had a bare metal hub.
 
I hadn't heard of Aisin in shipping fan clutches with bare metal hubs.

Is that related to nlxtasy's post?
 
Thanks LT!!
I didn't read the whole thread, but page 1 referenced the amount of adjustment needed not being documented, so I went ahead and scribed the screws per your recommendation and took a pic for reference. Hope it helps someone.
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1407111339.390849.jpg
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1407111350.057321.jpg
 
As it turns out I had 5 clutches to mod today and did a little more checking on them. What I've seen is that the clutches don't always need the same amount of adjustment. To check my method I switched from the thermometer to an IR gun last year as the consistency of the thermometer was questioned in this thread.

To further check my method, after adjusting the 5 clutches I then placed them in a 170* oven for 15 minutes. I wanted to compare their positions at an elevated temp and confirm that they were similarly responding to the higher temp. From what I could determine the positions were all the same.

I'll actually start adjusting them using the higher temp as I think it will yield a more consistent result if there is some deviation in the springs response through natural variations in manufacturing.
 
I drained/filled my Eaton last summer with 15,000 "Mugen" brand Japanese fluid from the local hobby store. Plastic radiator tank had some small cracks, so I also replaced the radiator, belts, all the hoses, and the heater control valve. Never had any overheating issues before.

Everything was great through the winter, but I was pushing the red zone and having the AC cut out this weekend while pulling my boat and truck full of camping gear up over the Cascades here in Oregon. 90° F ambient temps that day and I had to run the heater up the mountains to keep it out of the red. The trip home was fine without the AC and mostly downhill travel, but as soon as I tried the AC on the freeway, it pushed almost to the red and the AC cut out again at even the slightest uphill or sitting at a stoplight.

Doesn't seem to be much resistance in the clutch, even when up at operating temp now. Any guesses what's up? I'm going to pick up a Scangauge this afternoon to keep a better eye on temps. I don't see any leaking or damage to the clutch. Would the fluid be worn out that quickly?
 
here is MA where we have lots of corrosion the fan clutches take a beating. For the most part through winter the clutches are not in use and the valves seem to seize up. Probably the same for your clutch. Time for a replacement.
 
That's about what I was thinking. Thanks, LT and the others, for spending so much time figuring all of this out.
 
I read in this thread that the green fan clutch (3FE) isn't adjustable for temp--only for fluid. Finally I tore apart my '92 3FE clutch (which is, in fact, green), and it looks inside (and outside except the green hub) exactly like the black AISIN common in the '94 trucks. So I adjusted it... (it was opening at around 130 degrees). And it's getting 10K fluid tomorrow. Not sure if I misunderstood about the adjustability of the green hub, but I am just putting this here in case someone else runs into it.
 
I read in this thread that the green fan clutch (3FE) isn't adjustable for temp--only for fluid. Finally I tore apart my '92 3FE clutch (which is, in fact, green), and it looks inside (and outside except the green hub) exactly like the black AISIN common in the '94 trucks. So I adjusted it... (it was opening at around 130 degrees). And it's getting 10K fluid tomorrow. Not sure if I misunderstood about the adjustability of the green hub, but I am just putting this here in case someone else runs into it.

Other than mount spacing/pattern, the aqua hub is the same as the black hub, great clutch. Depending on conditions, 10K is as much as I would do with them, most users likely only need 7K-ish. They are powerful clutches and can be easily turned into belt eaters.
 
Thans for the advice & expertise--I'll chase down some 5K and make a mix...
 
i didnt read through the whole gazillion posts on this thread, i just dont have the time, but does anyone know what oil comes in the blue hub? i just got one in and was curious if i need to change the oil to something thicker. its in the 110 degree weather right now...
 
i didnt read through the whole gazillion posts on this thread, i just dont have the time, but does anyone know what oil comes in the blue hub? i just got one in and was curious if i need to change the oil to something thicker. its in the 110 degree weather right now...

Not sure of the weight of the oil that comes with the blue hub but I have one. When I got it I put 20,000 into it (about 40 ml). I was still having some elevated temperatures. Better than before but still jumping in the 205-215 F on long inclines. I was also concerned that when the engine was heat soaked (4 hours of driving on a road trip) it was having difficulty shedding the heat. I just replaced the oil with 30,000 and WOW...a huge difference in ability to shed heat.
 
i didnt read through the whole gazillion posts on this thread, i just dont have the time, but does anyone know what oil comes in the blue hub? i just got one in and was curious if i need to change the oil to something thicker. its in the 110 degree weather right now...

Running in the desert, (especially slogging it through sand without airing down:hillbilly:), I would go at least 25K in a blue hub. Better yet, if you still have the Eaton, put ~20k in it, we have had great results from them.
 
i have some 20k on the way. hopefully that will be good. ive read somewhere that a guy in the phoenix area was running 20k with a mod done and never gets to 200* or something to that effect... dont remember who it was though. maybe it was you, tools. dont know...
 

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