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Blown U-Joint

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by CruisinGA, Jun 30, 2003.

  1. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

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    Finally got my cruiser back after the clutch job :D. However as soon as I got above 40 I noticed a nasty vibration. Got out made sure hubs unlocked and was in 2hi. Figured it was one of two things, bad u-joint or rear ujoints out of line. (I don't even know if the latter predicament will cause vibration). I took the rear drive shaft off, cause it was out of line, and noticed that on one axis of pivot it was hard to "bend" the u-joint back and forth, it would bind about halfway through its travel. So I promptly pumped some grease through it to see if that would help. It didn't. &nbsp:Drove 2.5 hours at 60 mph home today, figuring I need to rebuild/replace. Noticed that this u-joint is welding to d-shaft, thinking rebuild is better. Can I just take it apart and order individual parts from SOR/Toyota? Looks like you can on SOR, but prices are too great. What wears out in these things?
     
  2. Degnol

    Degnol

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    Time and Lac'o'grease. You don't really hear much talk of u-joint failure on LC's like you do on most"modern" trucks, but that is because most newer sh*t is not servicable. Other contributing factors are: Lift, Shortened driveshafts(due to driveline mods), and Engine mods that produce a lot more torque. &nbsp:Due to the history, I'd replace u-joints with OEM parts. JMHO :)
    Ed
     
  3. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

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    Is there a special tool to get those rings off and the u-joints apart? and then I just order that part that looks like a cross from SOR and be done with it? They have both OEM and AFT-I guess I'll get OEM.
     
  4. IDave

    IDave

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    Those rings come out pretty easily (or mine did) with just pliers or ring pliers, if you have them.  I couldn't figure out from the manual how to get the spiders out, or maybe they were just fused in for me.  I hammered away to no avail. Someone tell us the trick!
     
    Fireman likes this.
  5. Bryan-71

    Bryan-71

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    Hammer and hammer and hammer some more..and the when your done with that hammer a little more. Thats what I did at least. Get some bandaids ready for your knuckles.
     
  6. willsta2000

    willsta2000

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    Hopefully you have a decent size bench vise (required equip for any shop). Just use a socket to press the bearings in a tad (one at a time), just one axis at a time. Press the first just enough to get the c-clip out (it's on the inside), then press the other side bearing to push the first out.
    This is much harder to describe than it is to perform. :p
    Just make sure to add more grease to your new bearings before you put them in... you don't want the needle bearings falling out.

    Also, even though the fit between your d.shaft yoke and the bearing cap is pretty tight, it is possible to get it in there crooked, so take your time and get it right the first time. Cruiser u-joints aren't cheap.
     
  7. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

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    So what should I order? The inner cross from SOR? Is is necessary to spend 2x and get OEM?
     
  8. willsta2000

    willsta2000

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    Personally I've just bough 'em from Schucks. I typically have one or two extras... have now replaced 3 of them, but only the ones that were on the rig when I got it (a year ago). Generally spicer would be the way to go, but I've never come across any,... GMB's have worked allright so far, at $25 a pop, as opposed to sor's $50+.
     
  9. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

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    Whats Schucks? Sor has aftermarket for 25, would this be the same thing as GMB? I'm kinda thinkin OEM got this far, maybe I should just go OEM again.
     
  10. MarkFJ40

    MarkFJ40

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  11. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

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    Thanks for that link-looks like that will be my guide-
    So where do I get genuine spicer joints?  I would think Toyota OEM is fine considering it lasted this long....