Builds BJ42 Restoration (1 Viewer)

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Thanks for the reminder, I've see those before and I think that's the way to go. I will also source some thin rubber material that I can cut to alleviate dissimilar metals. I will try hard to document my findings. It will take me about 4 or so uninterrupted days to get it ready, but my problem is that there apparent aren't enough engineers in the marine world and my phone won't stay quiet. Congrats on your tub, I think you'll be happy. Cheers.
 
Be careful using stainless nuts and bolts. The thread can gall and freeze the nut in place - the only way to remove is to cut it off and get a new fastener. Loctite and others sell a stainless thread lube to prevent this from happening.
 
Be careful using stainless nuts and bolts. The thread can gall and freeze the nut in place - the only way to remove is to cut it off and get a new fastener. Loctite and others sell a stainless thread lube to prevent this from happening.

I've actually experienced that first hand on a marine gear box, ended up having to machine it out. I still like good old Never Cease, but there are other product about there as well. Thanks for the heads up. Cheers
 
I'm still away at work, I had 4 days off since the beginning of December so I spent a couple of days with the family and then when they went to school and the wife went to work I finished up the windshield frame. The frame had probably 20 little holes in it,some from drilling and some from rust but the main frame and especially the bottom was solid. I then ended up grinding and buffjng it down before I took it to the body shop for epoxy primering. The shop told me they are painting a Porsche and then when that is done they will start on my sheet metal. However I can't bring them the tub until I have had a chance to pre drill all the necessary holes before primering and that should be done in the next couple of weeks. Tuesday night I will bring 6 factory rims, two jump seat frames and all my hinges for blasting, then its off to the powder coat shop for the rims and the paint shop for the hinges after I rebushing them. I also need at least 1500.00 for various lights and trim pieces which I will start ordering asap. Sorry for the delay but I'm maxed out right now.
 
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As well as stainless steel welding is not so easy, I try to collect all differences between Toyota and Teseven bodies.
Probably Teseven can upgrade a basic tub in order to minimize extra work - to drilling & nut rivets installation.
We wait for your follow up regarding installation

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@Economist LC76

There are SOOOO many differences between markets for every year... it would be some undertaking to figure out which market got what and individually customize each tub for the specific individual buying it

Some markets didn't get a heater ... Some markets didn't get roll bars... Some markets didn't get dash pads ... Then there are lower pads that some markets that got dash pads also got but not all... Some markets got vac shift transfers some didn't ... Some markets got booster brake systems some didn't ... Some markets got rear jump seats ... Some got long rear jump seats ... Some got the small mini jump seats ... Some got rear bench seats ... Just to name a few :) lol

And this all is within the newer tub range

I think he has a great product with the understanding that there is some adjustments and modifications to each persons preference or desire for oem correctness

I would be more in concern with how it fits to a frame and how it all lines up for a completed look

It is not an oem tub :meh:
 
JohnnyC

Sure you are right! I also agree that this tub is good and not OEM :)

From other side Teseven is from Europe and probably they can update slightly the tub.
In Europe we always have a heater, BJ43/BJ46 always have a roll bar and only one type of rear seat, always an upper dash (lower not always but it is any how just drilling) and also no vac shift.

At least position 1 and 5 they are ready to do. I plan to ask them regarding other update too.

I think it could be interesting for other Teseven clients...
 
Thank you Economist for the comparison, it is actually an interesting topic that you are taking on comparing the Teseven to a OEM body. I am waiting for a shipment of parts from various different suppliers. I have ordered an antenna, rear reflectors, a 4x4 shift knob, mirrors, and marker lights. In the mean time I stripped the jump seats, and drilled out the spot welds for the dash pad. I also noticed that there are some brackets missing and doublers for the spare tire holder but i think those should be fairly simple to manufacture. I will remove as many of the old brackets as possible and reuse them, unfortunately i got rid of the tub and therefore i don't have the spare tire carrier doubler but I will come up with something. Getting the tub ready is going to take longer than I thought because I am waiting for sheet metal and parts. Today I will go to town and round up some jacknuts , I can find them in M8 x 1.25 but i am having issues finding them in M6.
The one picture you show regarding the side vents is incorrect, the vent hinges and spring holder is exactly the same as factory. I will upload a pic asap.
I also test fitted one of the door hinges and it fits 100 % exact. I drilled only one hole for mounting pipes in the engine bay and the only way to roll is with cobalt bits, they go through stainless with ease. i am off to work tomorrow, then in a week i am home and things will seriously slow down for me work wise. I am also finishing the final contract on my parents house purchase today so that will be off of my plate.
Regarding the roll bar doubler, that's easy to just back them with a stainless back plate, its getting undercoated after anyway.
In hindsight I wish I didn't get it primered, I am not entirely happy with the primer finish and I will have to do some minor welding to fit a few items. The primer coat has a few rough spots and i had a tiny eraser head size piece come off where the passenger seat mounts. If this primer coat doesn't stick my painter will just blame Teseven for the failure and if i had my guy primer and paint it I would have some recourse if the paint failed.
 
drilled out the dash pad and I will spot weld that in place as well as soon as it comes back from the blaster. I need to find M6 threaded rivets to mount my dash pads, I'm off to town today to source those. cheers.

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Do you think I could find stainless steel rivnuts in Canada? I nee d M8 x 1.25 and M6 x 1.0 about 1/2 to 3/4 inch long and it's apparently impossible to get them. The one company that could supply them wants $5.54 each/so that would be over a grand, in the States they are .57 cents each up to a dollar each...welcome to Canada. Metric appears to be the problem, I'll keep looking but the tub fitting is in hold until I can find them .
 
Do you think I could find stainless steel rivnuts in Canada? I nee d M8 x 1.25 and M6 x 1.0 about 1/2 to 3/4 inch long and it's apparently impossible to get them. The one company that could supply them wants $5.54 each/so that would be over a grand, in the States they are .57 cents each up to a dollar each...welcome to Canada. Metric appears to be the problem, I'll keep looking but the tub fitting is in hold until I can find them .

do you not have any 'merican friends that could buy the lot you need and mail them to you?
 
Collected some ideas on the rivet nuts. Hope it will be useful

Galvanic corrosion is a problem. Rivet nuts should be stainless. Bolts ideally also.
Few types of metal have to be excluded from the contact
GalvanicCorrosion 1.jpg


If the contact is inevitable, insulation is required (Nylon 6 or smth)
Galvanic corrosion.jpg


In order to minimize corrosion few principles
use closed end stainless nut rivets
insert rivets with sealant
use anty-seize paste for the bolts
closed end  seal.jpg

Anti seize.jpg

As to the tools. There are reasonable manual tools, but they manage the rivets up to M8 (should be ok).
Rivet kit.jpg


All the best to your project!
 
Wow! A real Teseven tub! So awesome! As a tip, when bolting or riveting on your accessories to the tub, one thing I do as a rubber gasket between the tub and the metal part-I spray plasti-dip on the parts mating surface. It makes a nice thin rubber coating, and you can make it thick by applying multiple coats, and its cheap.
 
Collected some ideas on the rivet nuts. Hope it will be useful

Galvanic corrosion is a problem. Rivet nuts should be stainless. Bolts ideally also.
Few types of metal have to be excluded from the contact
View attachment 1218861

If the contact is inevitable, insulation is required (Nylon 6 or smth)
View attachment 1218860

In order to minimize corrosion few principles
use closed end stainless nut rivets
insert rivets with sealant
use anty-seize paste for the bolts
View attachment 1218859
View attachment 1218858
As to the tools. There are reasonable manual tools, but they manage the rivets up to M8 (should be ok).
View attachment 1218857

All the best to your project!
Thank you, I found ample stainless rivnuts and they are being shipped from the U.S. I tried 6 different sources for them in Canada and I did find one supplier but he wanted 5.54 each. That guys smoking crack! I found them for under a buck, once they arrive I can start moving ahead again.
 

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