Best tool for removing surface rust?

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by FlowState, Apr 24, 2011.

  1. FlowState

    FlowState

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    I'm anxiously awaiting the trip to go get my new baby (1984 60) and want to make sure that I have the tools needed to do the job. I bought an angle grinder with cutting disks as well as flexible grinding disks, and that will do just fine for most of the work.

    What I'm wondering about is tiny polka-dots of rust I will have on the surface of otherwise clean, straight panels. I'm a little worried that an angle grinder would be prone to tear into the metal too much.

    Should I be fine with the angle grinder and flexible grinding disks, or is there another approach (like an orbital sander) that might be gentler?

    EDIT: I guess I'll ask the rest of my questions here:

    Once I've removed rust (surface or slightly pitted), what is the best thing to spray over the top to prevent further rusting? I'm going to be leaving the primer (or whatever y'all suggest) on for a while, as I'm waiting to do my paint work until after the mechanical stuff is how I want it.

    Thanks,

    ~Eric
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2011
  2. NQCruiser

    NQCruiser

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    Probably depends a bit on how bad and where it is, but I generally use a 4in angle grinder and a Twist Knot Cup Brush or similar style wire wheel. You can use it light to just take the surface layer off, or push down hard to really strip that paint back and dig at the metal. I've found these to be a bit gentler than some of the flap style discs, although these leave a smoother finish if you use a fine enough grade.
     
  3. FlowState

    FlowState

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    What I'm really worried about is messing up the metal. If the rust is half an inch wide, and I end up stripping enough paint that I need 3 inches of primer, that's fine, as long as the metal won't be roughed up.

    I don't mind buying multiple discs, but I'm definitely worried about the finish. In that case, what discs would you use? Again, I don't mind using as many as I have to to kill the rust but leave a smooth finish.

    Thanks heaps for the advice, mate!
     
  4. Eldorado556

    Eldorado556

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    Pick up one of those discs made for paint and rust removal. Gator Grit and Norton make them. I've been using them to remove rust from an old bull bar. Works quickly and doesn't snag like a wire wheel.
     
  5. FlowState

    FlowState

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    I found a 3m quick-switch adapter and paint/rust removal discs for the angle-grinder. Based on the reviews, it looks like this is enough to strip surface rust and feather the paint.

    The first part of my buildup thread is going to be rust removal, so I'll do full reviews on these.

    Thanks again guys, helped me sort it all out.

    Eric
     
  6. 62LostInMn

    62LostInMn

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    If you have a decent corded, variable speed drill you can get some small abrasive disc tools and wire wheels that will fit the drill. I like these for smaller detail work. The angle grinder is a bit of a beast and tough to control for some locations.
    Jim
     
  7. scrowley

    scrowley

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    I have to say I have done this a lot and what works for me...
    I start off sanding the surface rust with a red cookie. The air tool that accepts cookit discs. It also holds wire wheels which are great for the frame cleanup. The cookies are great because they dont hurt the metal at all. The cookies come in red (most abrasive) green (middle) blue (least). If all rust is gone in your concern area use a rust prevent primer of your choice. For an undercoat primer these are all about the same. If your not going to paint for awhile and live in a high rust area you might want to use some SEM rust shield or por 15 for now then resand when you do paint it. Good luck. hope this helps
     
  8. FlowState

    FlowState

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    I'm in Texas, so there's no worries on new rust. I'm gonna go with the angle grinder, since I'm going to be doing frame stuff, and some cutting.

    I am pretty sure from your description that the abrasive discs that I was talking about earlier are the same ones that you're referring to. As far as the rust-preventative primer goes, that's likely what I'm going to do... likely in that nice, boxcar red, so I am constantly reminded that I need to get the paint done :D

    Like I said, I'll do a writeup as the first part of my buildup. One hopes I do this right after asking all these questions.
     
  9. daveIT

    daveIT

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    Bumpers

    How about clearing the surface rust from these bumpers? What can I paint/refinish them in to prevent this in the future? I don't have a grinder or anything like that.
    Front.jpg
     

  10. Lost

    Lost

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    get a welder. rust will come back eventually even if its 10 years later.

    then again why buy a rusty rig?? hope you got a good deal.. and furthermore, id save your money for any possible mechanical problems before you dive into cosmetics...
     
  11. ff347

    ff347

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    3M US: Roloc Bristle Disc

    They look silly but they work great on everything I have tried them on. Sharp edges kill them in a hurry.
     
  12. FlowState

    FlowState

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    I did get a good deal. And like I said, there's just some surface rust, only cancer in one spot on the right quarter panel wheel well. Mechanically, the truck is immaculate. Worst case scenario, I've got maybe 500 dollars worth of body stuff, including parts.
     
  13. GLTHFJ60

    GLTHFJ60 Rum Runnin' SILVER Star

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    For thick metal, use a knurled wire brush. It'll strip everything down right to the metal in no time. For thin metal, I've always used the 3M paint eater drill tools. They're a porous composite that fits onto a drill and strips paint ( rust as well ) with ease.
     
  14. laguna80

    laguna80

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  15. FlowState

    FlowState

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    out of curiosity, Laguna... I just looked those up and didn't see different grits. Like I said, I am really concerned about the finish... what do you follow these up with?
     
  16. TobyB

    TobyB SILVER Star

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    the 3m/norton/etc abrasive stripping pads leave a good finish for filler-
    either sprayed or spread, and they remove a minimum of metal.

    you can get them anywhere (hd, blowes,etc).
    the industrial ones are often cheaper, but harder to find.

    i then etch prime, seal, fill (high build spray often works for little rust spiders) and finish...

    hth,

    t
     

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