Bell Housing Removal Help Needed (1 Viewer)

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Feb 1, 2013
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Location
Houston, TX
Before I put my transmission back in with my Fairey Overdrive (see my post: New Member in Houston) I wanted to go ahead and change out my rear main seal since I've noticed a oil drip at the back of the motor when the truck is running. I have the transmission and transfer case out and a Toyota rear main seal on hand so now is a good time to do it. Normally I'd post in my thread but I didn't see any threads discussing this and I figure down the road someone may find it useful.

I've never taken a bell housing off before so I want to make sure I do it right. For that matter I've never removed a clutch of a flywheel either. Can I remove them all as one unit with the bell housing? Do I need to removed them all separate? Is there an order I should go in or technique I need to use? For instance do I need to note any measurements or the orientation of anything before I just start removing parts?

Any tips or advice are appreciated.
 
You can mark them with alignment marks. Just for good practice. Doesn't really matter too much. The Pressure Plate will only go on in a certain position (alignment pins)

Just remove the bolts that secure the pressure plate to the flywheel. That comes off and along with it the clutch disc. Then you have the flywheel bolts exposed. Going to have to secure the flywheel to remove those. Once they are out the flywheel will come off. Be aware... it is heavy.

Once the flywheel and pressure plate are out you can then access the bolts that hold the bellhousing on. Remove them and keep on truckin'!
 
You can mark them with alignment marks. Just for good practice. Doesn't really matter too much. The Pressure Plate will only go on in a certain position (alignment pins)

Just remove the bolts that secure the pressure plate to the flywheel. That comes off and along with it the clutch disc. Then you have the flywheel bolts exposed. Going to have to secure the flywheel to remove those. Once they are out the flywheel will come off. Be aware... it is heavy.

Once the flywheel and pressure plate are out you can then access the bolts that hold the bellhousing on. Remove them and keep on truckin'!

Are you talking about removing the bolts on the cover that I've drawn red lines to and then removing bolts from the pressure plate? or can i remove the bolts from the pressure plate without removing the cover?

 
the "cover" is the pressure plate. Once you remove these bolts (red lines) your pressure plate will come off with the clutch disc behind it. Nothing holds the clutch disc once the pressure plate is removed so be sure not do drop it if your reusing it.
 
I was able to replace the rear main seal without removing the bellhousing. When you remove the clutch disc, note which side if facing you, and which side is facing the engine. It can physically be installed backwards but will not operate.
 
I was able to replace the rear main seal without removing the bellhousing. When you remove the clutch disc, note which side if facing you, and which side is facing the engine. It can physically be installed backwards but will not operate.

I plan on checking the oil plug that is on the back of the motor while I've got everything off. Hopefully I pull the bell housing and it's not leaking so I can just slap the bell housing back on. Also I have my front axle off so I plan on installing a new oil pan gasket as well. I'm not sure if having the bell housing off helps with that or not.

Thanks for the tip on the pressure plate orientation. I will be taking a lot of photos of this as I go so if anyone needs help with this in the future this thread should be a good source of information.
 
If you've never done the clutch, it may be the time to do it. After all, you got everything off. Be sure to inspect it. And like others have said, no need to take off the bell housing for any of this.
 
If you've never done the clutch, it may be the time to do it. After all, you got everything off. Be sure to inspect it. And like others have said, no need to take off the bell housing for any of this.

it has a brand new clutch that the previous owner installed so I should be good there.
 
Even so, check it out. The previous owner should have replaced the main seal too when he did the clutch and you know how that is working out for you...
 
To fair to the PO, he may have changed the rear main seal. My experience has been that replacement seals don't hold long, even if they're OEM. Once the crank has worn a groove, there's no complete fix. It might be better but it will still leak.

But then I'm 0 for 3 at fixing my Cruisers this month so I've demoted myself to a :banana: mechanic until I can improve my record.
 
Well he rebuilt the whole motor and from what I've seen did a good job. I believe he even took the block and had it machined. He owns a mechanic shop down in San Antonio and when I looked them up online they had good reviews so I would assume that he knew what he was doing.

Regardless I do have a leak and it is either the oil pan, the rear main seal, or the press fit plug that is at the back of the motor. I figure there is no better time to change them then now. Yesterday I invested in some better jack stands and I have the truck sitting up really nice and high right now so I can take lots of nice photos and actually use my creeper instead of laying on the concrete.
 
Could you tell me the name of the shop? Did they rebuid/assemble it in house? I'm in San Antonio so I'm curious, thanks

I'm honestly not sure how much they did and how much they farmed out. There was kind of a half way done de-smog on it and the carb had issues when I got it that made me lose power when I was coasting off of the highway. Looking at their site, it doesn't look like they get into engine rebuilds but you could always ask them to recommend someone if they don't. I should also note that I haven't put a whole lot of miles on my FJ60 since I got it from them so, I can't speak to the longevity of their work.

Here is a link to their site: Sirianni Automotive Services
 
I have heard that toyota has made their rear main seals either thicker or thinner over the years in order to put the sealing lip on a different spot of the sealing race of the crank. do not know specifics, but think that AM seals do not take these things into consideration. for whatever it's worth...
 

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