ATTN Cooling guros - Rig running warm at HWY speeds (1 Viewer)

[bloc]

Your brand new blue clutch may have enough grab to cool the truck at idle, when the engine is making hp in the single digits.. but not when it needs to sustain 50-60hp (wild ass guess.. may be more. Either way a LOT more than idle) to drive down the freeway with big ass lights blocking the ambient airflow into the radiator. On your old rig the fan clutch may have been able to do the necessary work with the lights in the way.

The three scenarios I'd be testing in your situation:
no lights, current fan clutch
no lights, old fan clutch
lights installed, old fan clutch

If you find the fan clutch contributing to the problem, get another from LandTank, or rebuild your old one. Some consider the old black fan clutches superior. I swapped the fluid in my original 280k mile fan clutch for ~7kcst (seems weird to say "thousand centistokes") and adjusted the clock spring on the front.. and it appears to be working very very well.

 

[NLXTACY]

There is a thread somewhere on MUD that goes through every possible test and outcome imaginable to try and figure out an overheating issue. I don't remember off hand who it was but it was a huge thread. That thread went thru it all. Someone here has to remember that thread...

 

[FloridaFJ80]

Your brand new blue clutch may have enough grab to cool the truck at idle, when the engine is making hp in the single digits.. but not when it needs to sustain 50-60hp (wild ass guess.. may be more. Either way a LOT more than idle) to drive down the freeway with big ass lights blocking the ambient airflow into the radiator. On your old rig the fan clutch may have been able to do the necessary work with the lights in the way.

The three scenarios I'd be testing in your situation:
no lights, current fan clutch
no lights, old fan clutch
lights installed, old fan clutch

If you find the fan clutch contributing to the problem, get another from LandTank, or rebuild your old one. Some consider the old black fan clutches superior. I swapped the fluid in my original 280k mile fan clutch for ~7kcst (seems weird to say "thousand centistokes") and adjusted the clock spring on the front.. and it appears to be working very very well.

Awesome I will be doing the experiment today.. going to be headed to HF to buy a cheap infrared thermo to provide more data! Thanks for the advice.

 

[LS1FJ40]

There is a thread somewhere on MUD that goes through every possible test and outcome imaginable to try and figure out an overheating issue. I don't remember off hand who it was but it was a huge thread. That thread went thru it all. Someone here has to remember that thread...

Generally speaking I wouldn't take overheating advice from Joey but I would definitely take it this time and try to find this thread. You may have to take a week off work to read through it all but you should be able to figure it out...maybe.

 

[NLXTACY]

Generally speaking I wouldn't take overheating advice from Joey but I would definitely take it this time and try to find this thread. You may have to take a week off work to read through it all but you should be able to figure it out...maybe.

Oh what a coincidence. That guy's name is Joey too? Sounds like a smart, worldly and great guy all around.

 

[retrofive]

Oh what a coincidence. That guy's name is Joey too? Sounds like a smart, wordy and great guy all around.

FIFY

 

[FloridaFJ80]

There is a thread somewhere on MUD that goes through every possible test and outcome imaginable to try and figure out an overheating issue. I don't remember off hand who it was but it was a huge thread. That thread went thru it all. Someone here has to remember that thread...

I wonder what it may be.. LOL

 

[NLXTACY]

FIFY

You misspelled "worldly".

@FloridaFJ80 get the IR gun.

 

[FloridaFJ80]

Drove approx 15 miles on the hey temps got as high as 199.4 this is with just removing the lights. Temps didnt climb as high or fast as before. I can spin the fan pretty easily at cold temp. Not much resistance. Just go to HF tp buy the IF thermo

 

[FloridaFJ80]

Outside temp 80 and cloudy a little drizzle but went away as I drove

 

[FloridaFJ80]

 

[DSRTRDR]

There is a thread somewhere on MUD that goes through every possible test and outcome imaginable to try and figure out an overheating issue. I don't remember off hand who it was but it was a huge thread. That thread went thru it all. Someone here has to remember that thread...

there was never a solution to it, though

to the OP: I assume you have the foam around the radiator ?

 

[Chester]

Generally speaking I wouldn't take overheating advice from Joey but I would definitely take it this time and try to find this thread. You may have to take a week off work to read through it all but you should be able to figure it out...maybe.

There is a thread somewhere on MUD that goes through every possible test and outcome imaginable to try and figure out an overheating issue. I don't remember off hand who it was but it was a huge thread. That thread went thru it all. Someone here has to remember that thread...

The ubiquitous hands up cooling thread has the answer.
I've also read that the water pump is bullet proof, but each one I've taken off was impaired and needed to be replaced.

 

[NLXTACY]

there was never a solution to it, though

to the OP: I assume you have the foam around the radiator ?

Well...to be determined. But the thread has plenty of testing procedures and component failure examples and possible solutions. No one method suits all.

 

[FloridaFJ80]

Yea i have foam all around the radiator.

 

[bloc]

No foam here on my brand new 3-row Koyo, and while I don't have scangauge my fixed-resistor temp gauge stays below half on the freeway, which according to the thread suggests mid-high 180s.

The ubiquitous hands up cooling thread has the answer.
I've also read that the water pump is bullet proof, but each one I've taken off was impaired and needed to be replaced.

I have no idea how old it was, but the OEM pump I just pulled off this truck with 280k miles on the chassis was in perfect working order. Spun smooth as silk, no leaking, impeller in great shape. Easily could have gone without replacement, but I had already ordered the Aisin.

 

[Reelitchy]

I think one troubleshooting item is always left out in the cooling system threads. The overflow bottle. The level should always remain constant. A cold truck should always be the same level as well as the warm level. This is an easy check everyday when problems arrive. Start cold and leave at idle until top hose gets good and warm. Should only take 5 min at most (Summertime). you really shouldn't notice a rise because the TS is just beginning to open and Temps and psi has not built up. Once warm you can open the throttle 2-3000 rpm. watch the bottle. It should not rise until 12-15 psi are built up. When it does open you should notice the turbulent fluid coming in the bottle. If it rises slowly without turbulence then the lower half of your cap is not doing its job and psi is not building. I always keep the bottle above the full mark when it's hot. When the truck cools the level should go back to original cold mark. This also let's you know that air is not in the system (which cold take several cycles to fully purge).

 

[FloridaFJ80]

Well i dug up the old fan clutch and spun it and i can feel a lot more resistance when compared to the blue clutch. I will swap out the clutch tomorrow and report back. As for the overflow bottle mine just says full and low on the side. And I always keep it on the full line level.

 

[FloridaFJ80]

 

[Onefastrx7turbo]

Ive been driving with the AC on now that it's getting warmer in the Southwest. Ive seen temperatures as measured on the scan gauge as 179 idle, and so far 186 on the highway at 65-70mph with the AC on. My radiator is original as far as I know, but it has about 2,000 miles on the water pump and thermostat. I also deviated from the normal 50/50 water to coolant ratio. I have run 75/25 water to coolant with good results for years in this climate. I also modded the fan clutch with thicker oil and it roars until the coolant reads about 100F then it's almost silent.