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April 1971 FJ40, questions and longterm build.

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by 93jspec, Jul 5, 2011.

  1. 93jspec

    93jspec PimpN FriJid 40 GOLD Star

    Messages:
    481
    Location:
    Fairbanks, Alaska
    SO here we go, I recently bought a FJ40 manufactured in April of 71. It has the 1F, 3 speed manual ( moved from column to floor )and stock T-case. The floor boards are rust free and only minor surface rust on the body..that I can find as of now.
    [​IMG]


    more pics can be found here:
    FJ40 pictures by 93JSpec - Photobucket

    I currently own a 93 4Runner which has all the usual mods, SAS, Rear leaf conversion blah blah etc, and I have wheeled the **** out of this thing. But I have the FJ now. I have been through the FAQ and tried to do a search but cannot find what I am looking for. The deal is I want to scrap the JunkRunner (engine issues)and use what I can off of it for the FJ. Now I am currently deployed to A-Stan and got the FJ right before I deployed so I cant just run out to the garage and look stuff over and figure it out like I normaly would. When we built the front axle of the runner I put in a high pinion 3rd with 5:29's and an ARB airlocker. Since then I have added longfields. The rear has 5:29's and a toyota eLocker in it.

    [​IMG]
    Last edited: May 10, 2013
  2. AKcruiserfreak

    AKcruiserfreak SILVER Star

    Messages:
    2,248
    Location:
    North Pole, AK
    Hello fellow Fairbanksian! Nice rig! I also own a 1971 FJ-40 that I'm starting a restoration on this winter. Yours looks to be wayyyy straighter than mine. It also looks like you have a good idea of what you want to do to yours, but keep in mind that you can probably part the 4runner out and come out better financially than trying to retrofit parts of it into the Cruiser. It just seems like you would be doing alot of fab work to achieve a upgrade imo. Especially considering that you can source gears, lockers, front discs, and power steering fairly reasonably for 40s.
    On a side note, I'll be pulling my F motor and other odds and ends, so if you want a header, Weber, or electric dissy let me know. I also have a few odds and ends of parts around that you might want (like a bezel ;) ). Shoot me a PM for more details.
    Great to see another Alaskan build!

    TK
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2011
  3. bsmith123

    bsmith123

    Messages:
    3,077
    Location:
    Norfolk United Kingdom
    nice

    looks like a really nice rig and very complete with bits and pieces

    Very nice

    Well cant say I have that much Extreme Cold experience but cold with points ignitions and carbs yes
    I would do a tune up and box up all the old, but working ignition parts and keep them in the truck as emergency spares
    spare battery and jumper cables
    keep some ether and wd-40 in the truck
    good working choke and check the warm up flap in the manifold


    I might look at eventually changing the 1F but should work for you, I might not go out alone though but of course if it is really cold I am sure you know all the precautions better than me
  4. 1978freebornred

    1978freebornred

    Messages:
    296
    my advise as a daily driver and offroader on a budget first what is mechanically wrong with the 40 ? if you want to go over 55 i could see doing a drivetrain mod... i drive my 40 everywhere but its a 1978 and has the things you want... the coolest and cheapest if you have a welder is to stretch the 40 body and put its guts in it check out http://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/264922-fzj40.html it will give you an idea... but if you want the short wheelbase youl just have to switch the front axle... etc etc
  5. fzr400guy

    fzr400guy SILVER Star

    Messages:
    335
    Location:
    San Diego
    Your 40 is 1 month older than mine. If you want to daily drive the thing at all I can't say enough about a SBC 350/700R4/3spd transfercase combo using the Advanced Adapter kit. I commute everyday in my 40 and can cruise at 75 to 80 mph all day long.
  6. 93jspec

    93jspec PimpN FriJid 40 GOLD Star

    Messages:
    481
    Location:
    Fairbanks, Alaska
    Thanks for the responses :clap: . I will be taking mid tour leave at the end of September and plan on doing mostly interior stuff during the 2 weeks I am home. I will also be removing the hard top and taking it apart to get the pieces refurbished. So next month I will be ordering door seals, and the seals for the hardtop and the SOR Deluxe FJ40 seat covers that come with new foam. I do need to get a line on a front bezel as well as the emblem, and a factory roll cage. This will at least make it comfortable to drive when I get back to the AK early 2012. I am going to take the advice of just selling off my axles and scrapping whats left of the 4Runner, lots of good memories there, but I need some new ones with the FJ ( after all its a 71 and I was born in 71 ). My commute to work is 5 min on base, no faster than 35. When we go wheeling, well they can just wait. I really just wanted to keep the matching numbers for the FJ, and I want to put most of the money I have into the axles and beef up the T-case and what restoration needs to be done. So I guess I will start putting together the list of parts I need to re-gear and lock the stock ones, as well as what longfields will work. Staying SUA I can go inexpensive on the lift and use 4" BDS YJ springs, or purchase an OME, SOR or CCOT 4 in lift. I will be upgrading to front disk brakes and power steering as well. I do want to be able to take the fairly new Pro Comp Extreme Mud Terrains I have on the Junk Runner and use them on the FJ (35x12.50 on 15in steelies). Also going to be placing an order for the Metal tech Tube Fenders and doors. Here is a short list of what I have decided to order in the next 2 months:
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2012
  7. 93jspec

    93jspec PimpN FriJid 40 GOLD Star

    Messages:
    481
    Location:
    Fairbanks, Alaska
    UPDATE!

    Vehicle: Data plate says April 1971 FJ40
    Plans: Purists BEWARE
    1.) Engine: Stay with the 1F, do the dizzy swap, rebuild carb and bolt on header.
    2.) Transmission: Current 3 Speed swap with 4 Speed
    3.) Transfer Case: Remove vacuum activated 4WD and swap in cone off the 4speed transfer case
    4.) Axles: Re gear, ARB Air Lockers, Disk brake conversion
    5.) Frame: Ford F250 shock towers, shackle reversal up front and move the rear back a couple inches. Re-Enforce the frame and plan to tie in the roll cage and bumpers
    6.) Tires Pro Comp Extreme Mud Terrain 35x12.50x15 on ProComp rock crushers 15x8
    7.) TUB: Good lord where to begin. Pro Car Bucket seats, Herculiner...and who knows what else the future holds


    The Above is an edit from my original plans and the posts below will reflect my random lessons learned. I will mark those posts with another edit comment and where I went astray.
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2012
  8. 93jspec

    93jspec PimpN FriJid 40 GOLD Star

    Messages:
    481
    Location:
    Fairbanks, Alaska
    Been home on leave 2 days. Went through the boxes that are here, I am only waiting on the sliders from Man-A-Fre and the tube doors from Metal-Tech. Other than those everything listed above has arrived. All I plan on doing during this 15 days is recovering the seats and stripping and painting the seat frames. I still need to order my lockers, gears and master install kits. I am leaning towards ordering either new fenders or the Metal-Tech tube fender kit. Keep in mind this is going to be a very capable daily driver and I want to keep as clean a factory look as I can.

    My pile of parts so far

    [​IMG]

    Passenger seat before:

    [​IMG]

    Passenger seat bottom and frame almost complete:

    [​IMG]

    working on the back rests at the moment.
  9. matchan420

    matchan420

    Messages:
    518
    Location:
    Las Vegas
    I would say that you should look at Redline tube doors, they are made from DOM and fit in the natural door jams. Also look at the Redline cage, far more less like a Jeeps cage and very robust. Get Longfield 30 spline for sure and upgrade your hubs with IFS hubs including Longfield hub gears. I love runners! Sell your stuff on Pirate4x4 to make more cruiser parts;).

    Thanks for your service, a lot. Can never repay you for that.
  10. 93jspec

    93jspec PimpN FriJid 40 GOLD Star

    Messages:
    481
    Location:
    Fairbanks, Alaska
    Already have the Metal-Tech ones on the way, I also like the netting they have for them, but not for $100 more.
  11. 93jspec

    93jspec PimpN FriJid 40 GOLD Star

    Messages:
    481
    Location:
    Fairbanks, Alaska
    Okay so I am now trying to figure out the Specter Off Road seat cover installation for the back rests. The written instructions are lacking almost any pertinent information ( which I am sure is by design to buy the DVD from them ). I have the foam and cover on the back rests...anyone have pictures of the installation of this kit on their FJ?

  12. krzyabncanuck

    krzyabncanuck GOLD Star

    Messages:
    7,537
    Location:
    NC
    Been too long since i did an older seat.

    But thanks for your service.
  13. SteveH

    SteveH

    Messages:
    1,382
    Location:
    Southern Colorado
    Suggestion - when you reupholster the seatback, cut a thin slice of foam as a lower back support, and glue it to the seatback foam behind the small of your back. You will be very happy you did this, after you're all done. There is no such thing as an FJ40 seat (of any era) with too much lower back support.
  14. pavieSD

    pavieSD SILVER Star

    Messages:
    379
    Location:
    San Diego
    You can check out mud member Aatlas' installation tips here:

    http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/203231-1981-fj40-restoration-4.html#post3939439

    Might be of some help.
  15. 93jspec

    93jspec PimpN FriJid 40 GOLD Star

    Messages:
    481
    Location:
    Fairbanks, Alaska
    Man in the van and brown shorts showed up again today:

    Metal Tech Tube Doors

    [​IMG]

    Man-A-Fre Sliders

    [​IMG]

    Thanks for the replies on the seats, I hope to have them done tomorrow or the day after.
  16. Pork-n-Bean

    Pork-n-Bean

    Messages:
    95
    Location:
    Bayou State
    First of all, thank you for your service to our country!

    Looks like a great project - keep it up & keep the pics coming!
  17. subzali

    subzali

    Messages:
    2,562
    Location:
    Denver CO
    Coming into this discussion late, but why not do a 3.4L swap into your 4runner and keep it? I'm not sure very many parts will swap over to your FJ40, if any, without going all out. What are your wheeling intentions with the FJ40? F engine isn't too bad, just watch to make sure it's getting oiled well.

    Looks like you're already well along ordering parts, so maybe a lot of this discussion is moot at this point.
  18. 93jspec

    93jspec PimpN FriJid 40 GOLD Star

    Messages:
    481
    Location:
    Fairbanks, Alaska
    I am at the point now where the only parts from the 4Runner I might use is the power steering parts for the conversion, the front disk brakes to convert the FJ's rear to disk and I will definitely be pulling the air compressor, 5 Gallon air tank, and my 35's. I hate to rip apart a rig that has so many good memories and is quite the capable wheeler....but I think I could get more out of the axles, ARB bumper, springs etc than selling it as a whole up here in Alaska. :frown:

    New pics:

    Just need to finish the seat backs
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Want to thank AKcruiserfreak for the Roll Bar and Bib and Bezels, I will see you Friday evening to pick up the axles. Here is a pic of the Man-A-Fre step sliders I mentioned today.
    [​IMG]
  19. AKcruiserfreak

    AKcruiserfreak SILVER Star

    Messages:
    2,248
    Location:
    North Pole, AK
    No problem man. Gotta treat our troops right! Thanks to you guys we get to enjoy our cushy American lives.
    I'll be around Friday night through Sunday as far as I know. Just give me a shout first to make sure I'm around.
    Those sliders look really nice. I might have to go that direction as well for my project. You sure are getting some nice goodies for that rig! have a good one.

    TK
  20. StaleAle

    StaleAle MUD-aholic SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,110
    Location:
    McLean, VA
    Thank you for your service!

    Regarding the seatback technique. You will note there are glue remnants on the old cover and that is your clue. Get a can of 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive and put it on the inside of the fabric cover and the frame where they make contact. Follow the directions on the can. Don't gunk it on too heavily and let it get tacky per the instructions. Get a couple of extra pairs of hands to help stretch the fabric into place while aligning the holes. The glue will hold it while you align the plate and insert the screws with washers. It's much easier doing it this way. Good Luck!

    Jon

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