Another front end wobble brake pulsation thread (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 17, 2013
Threads
10
Messages
90
Location
Little Rock, Arkansas
I know this subject is beat to death, but I want to pick some brains and not just throw money at this though. So here goes.

About a year ago I had a knuckle stud snap. I was unable to get the old stud completely out, but was able to secure it with a new stud. Not near optimal I know, but I have a new to me used knuckle awaiting install when I do the knuckle service in a few weeks. Also of note is the fact that I replaced the front rotors and pads a few months ago with the powerstop brand rotors and pads. After "fixing" the knuckle stud and prior to brake replacement I only had a pulsation while braking and no other symptoms. Now after the brake job I have a shake at highway speeds. Not terrible. I can see it in my passenger seat more than I can feel it. The brakes slowly began pulsating very slightly at any speed and the steering wheel sometimes shimmys when turning at mid range speeds. I've triple checked the bearings by the 12 o'clock 6 o'clock method. Triple checked the knuckle studs. Tie rods seem ok. I haven't balanced the tires, but don't see where I may have thrown a weight on the wheel. I have factory suspension and tires. Any other info I can provide to help please let me know. Once again this is a beat down topic and I'm sorry to revive the dead. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Thank you very much. I'll crawl up under there and have a look.
 
Check your wheel bearing adjustment. Too much slop when trying to shake the wheel and tire, top to bottom or side to side, with the tire in the air is a good indicator of further adjustment needed. It will feel like the brake is pulsing, but it's really more like excess shimmy from lose bearings.
 
get the truck in the air and check for play in the steering.........
I assume I do this by grabbing the tires and trying to move them side to side feeling for slack? As well as from underneath?

Check your wheel bearing adjustment. Too much slop when trying to shake the wheel and tire, top to bottom or side to side, with the tire in the air is a good indicator of further adjustment needed. It will feel like the brake is pulsing, but it's really more like excess shimmy from lose bearings.
I've done that 3 different times. They pass the test. I'll find out when I service the knuckles for sure though.
 
Check all 18 bushings in the suspension system. 6 on the front radius arms, 8 on the rear control arms, and 4 on the panhard rods. If they are in bad shape they can allow any symptom to feel magnified due to the extra movement they can permit.
 
Will do guys. Thanks. This is something I can live with for a while longer. I'll update for data points when I get it figured out.

Unfortunately, I've been wanting to get new suspension, Ome stock height and 285 tires, but it seems I may need ~$900 in bushings. So they'll have to wait a bit longer.
 
hogfan, my 96 lx-450 does the same thing when my rotors get hot while going down long grades in the Sierra's

Im going to check my wheel bearings (complete over haul a year ago with new rotors) and bushings like others suggested ...hope I find this, kinda scary...
 
hogfan, my 96 lx-450 does the same thing when my rotors get hot while going down long grades in the Sierra's

Im going to check my wheel bearings (complete over haul a year ago with new rotors) and bushings like others suggested ...hope I find this, kinda scary...

Mine did exactly what you're describing before I found what was causing my problem.......worn steering arm holes where the tie rod ends connect....they were actually ovaled out. Just because the tie Rod ends are torqued to spec doesn't mean there isn't a problem underneath them. You might want to inspect yours.
 
Mine did exactly what you're describing before I found what was causing my problem.......worn steering arm holes where the tie rod ends connect....they were actually ovaled out. Just because the tie Rod ends are torqued to spec doesn't mean there isn't a problem underneath them. You might want to inspect yours.

Should it be evident by visual inspection or will I need to remove them for it to be evident?
 
Should it be evident by visual inspection or will I need to remove them for it to be evident?

You need to remove the tie rod ends from the steering arms and then inspect the holes. You might need to take the steering arms off the truck too in order to get a good look. I was able to tell just by looking at the steering arm holes at first that they were bad and then I got a ruler out and confirmed it.
 
hogfan, my 96 lx-450 does the same thing when my rotors get hot while going down long grades in the Sierra's

Im going to check my wheel bearings (complete over haul a year ago with new rotors) and bushings like others suggested ...hope I find this, kinda scary...
Mine does so cold or hot. It's very mild though. Not frightening at all. More annoying than anything.
 
Mine did exactly what you're describing before I found what was causing my problem.......worn steering arm holes where the tie rod ends connect....they were actually ovaled out. Just because the tie Rod ends are torqued to spec doesn't mean there isn't a problem underneath them. You might want to inspect yours.


Good info!!

Ive been wanting to replace all tie rod ends, so no excuses now...
 
Today I noticed that my front wheel bearings were a bit loose after jacking it up and checking for play....I set preload, got the play out of them...i bet this was part of my prob....
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom