Power Steering Gear Box 105 Series Sector Shaft/Pitman Arm Upgrade (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter OGBeno
- Start date
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Yup, right around there.
Very much worth it though IMHO. I would be surprised if you did any sort of wheeling and hadn't twisted the sector shaft at least a little bit.
Kinda a part you really don't want to break, especially if you're doing 70 down the freeway.....
- Thread starter
- #43
And a few more pics of the firewall opening for the intermediate shaft...
- Thread starter
- #45
No Kurt.
This is the place:
redneck ram hydraulic steering assist
You basically take your gear box off, drain it, then write up a little document with your contact information and tell them exactly what you want done to the box. You send it off to them, they take care of the work, and then call you for your CC number. Then they ship it back.
Really good customer service and good work.
That's not bad given you are getting a strength upgrade.
Of course, I just got completely f$$$$$d on my annual STI, so it ain't happening this year.
- Thread starter
- #47
Well, everything is finally back together on this. I've got way too many concurrent projects going, but they overlap which is cool so I can get lots of different types of wrenching in.
Installed the firewall seal, installed the intermediate shaft to the main shaft, then the intermediate shaft to the ujoint up by the input to the gear box. New hardware (the hardware is unique to this application--they are small bolts that actually have serrations that twist on installation--sort of like wheel bolts for the hubs--anyway, I needed three of these--I recommend replacing these and not reusing the old ones). I also ordered a cool FJ60 steering part to install on my rig--it's a medium sized rubber boot that was used on FJ60/62's. I put it over the front of the intermediate shaft and over the upper section of the ujoint. Real nice weather protector.
Installed the firewall seal, installed the intermediate shaft to the main shaft, then the intermediate shaft to the ujoint up by the input to the gear box. New hardware (the hardware is unique to this application--they are small bolts that actually have serrations that twist on installation--sort of like wheel bolts for the hubs--anyway, I needed three of these--I recommend replacing these and not reusing the old ones). I also ordered a cool FJ60 steering part to install on my rig--it's a medium sized rubber boot that was used on FJ60/62's. I put it over the front of the intermediate shaft and over the upper section of the ujoint. Real nice weather protector.
- Thread starter
- #48
Installed the gear box to the frame: 105 ft/lbs on the nut side/17mm socket. These nuts and bolts are factory pre-coated--sort of the same color as the OEM drive shaft bolts that come pre coated. Then the pitman arm.
This was a bit more tricky because I had to line the match marks up, then place the box parallel to the frame (with the ujoint/shaft uninstalled). Then I did a test fitment and put the pitman arm on and with the steering wheel counted how many times from lock to lock, divided by 2 and the pitman arm should have been lined up where I had lined it up. It was which mean everything is good in terms of steering wheel/pitman arm alignment.
Pitman arm nut is torqued to 130 ft/lbs. I used a regular 1/2" ratchet with a 12pt 32mm socket to get it down onto the shaft and to push the arm onto the sector shaft. Once I was pretty tight (probably about 110 ft/lbs or so), I used my torque wrench for the rest of the way on. 130 ft/lbs is tough on the shoulders!
Then the installation of the high pressure line and the return line, put the shield back on and she is good to go for some fluid now. I'll be doing the fluid/bleed once I get the whole front end back together with the manual hubs.
In any event, hopefully will last another 220K miles!! Check another project off the list. Now, off to test the sucker this spring...
Best.
-onur
This was a bit more tricky because I had to line the match marks up, then place the box parallel to the frame (with the ujoint/shaft uninstalled). Then I did a test fitment and put the pitman arm on and with the steering wheel counted how many times from lock to lock, divided by 2 and the pitman arm should have been lined up where I had lined it up. It was which mean everything is good in terms of steering wheel/pitman arm alignment.
Pitman arm nut is torqued to 130 ft/lbs. I used a regular 1/2" ratchet with a 12pt 32mm socket to get it down onto the shaft and to push the arm onto the sector shaft. Once I was pretty tight (probably about 110 ft/lbs or so), I used my torque wrench for the rest of the way on. 130 ft/lbs is tough on the shoulders!
Then the installation of the high pressure line and the return line, put the shield back on and she is good to go for some fluid now. I'll be doing the fluid/bleed once I get the whole front end back together with the manual hubs.
In any event, hopefully will last another 220K miles!! Check another project off the list. Now, off to test the sucker this spring...
Best.
-onur
PITMAN ARM removal My OTC adjustable pitman arm puller just spreads apart when I really torque on it. Guess I need a solid puller. Do the ones from AutoZone work?
What size do I need? The OTC says it was for up to 3/4 ton. The 80 must be 3/4 metric ton
What size puller do I get to pull the tie rod end? I have tired several and all they did was rip the rubber doughnut.
My OTC adjustable pitman arm puller just spreads apart when I really torque on it. Guess I need a solid puller. Do the ones from AutoZone work?What size do I need? The OTC says it was for up to 3/4 ton. The 80 must be 3/4 metric ton
What size puller do I get to pull the tie rod end? I have tired several and all they did was rip the rubber doughnut.
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Where are these balls? I don't see them in the FSM?
The AutoZone Rental pittman puller pulled off the tie rod with no damage. Must be A different size one than I used when I tried to pull the original tie rods. I had a hell of a time. They were stuck, the puller would bend and poop off.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Th Lisle Pittman arm puller I have cost no more than $20 and it works perfectly. I'm not sure I understand what the problem is.
I have the OTC 7311A puller
# Adjustable with special replaceable forged jaws.
# Two clamp bolts lock jaws on Pitman arm.
# Can perform other pulling jobs.
# Services cars and light trucks to 3/4-ton.
Its just stuck. I am soaking it in PB Blaster. That might help.
Every just about thing on this 80 is rock solid tight/stuck. I had a hell of time removing U-joints, tie rods, many bolts, separating Birfields, and now the pitman arm.
# Adjustable with special replaceable forged jaws.
# Two clamp bolts lock jaws on Pitman arm.
# Can perform other pulling jobs.
# Services cars and light trucks to 3/4-ton.
Its just stuck. I am soaking it in PB Blaster. That might help.
Every just about thing on this 80 is rock solid tight/stuck. I had a hell of time removing U-joints, tie rods, many bolts, separating Birfields, and now the pitman arm.
TrickyT
Hate that mud...
Beno, congrats on getting it all back together. Great documentation and pics too.
What did you ever decide to do about reinforcing the frame as a preventative measure against cracking? Did you add a plate or shine it on for now?
What did you ever decide to do about reinforcing the frame as a preventative measure against cracking? Did you add a plate or shine it on for now?
My suggestion was that he keep it on it's tires.........
My suggestion was that he keep it on it's tires.........
HA! I don't think the New Mexico DOT is gonna leave a mountain of snow in the turnpike's left lane at 10:00 p.m.
But I could be wrong!
As I asked in my other post.
Has anyone had the input seal replaced? Its looking to be unserviceable
Beno- Did the guys from Texas Off Road replace the input sea?
Has anyone had the input seal replaced? Its looking to be unserviceable
Beno- Did the guys from Texas Off Road replace the input sea?
powderpig
SILVER Star
The input seal replacement was left out of the rebuild manual. You need to remove the Power head and take all the little balls out to get to the seal.
I found it to be fun to do this, time consuming and was fortunate to have two boxes to work with to do the rebuild.
The seal comes in the kit, but I need to draw on some past experence to work with this. I needed to draw on my youth working on older chevy steering boxes. Some time you fly by the seat of your pants in dueing a rebuild of componets.
I found it to be fun to do this, time consuming and was fortunate to have two boxes to work with to do the rebuild.
The seal comes in the kit, but I need to draw on some past experence to work with this. I needed to draw on my youth working on older chevy steering boxes. Some time you fly by the seat of your pants in dueing a rebuild of componets.
The seal was not shown on the Toyota site for the repair shop.
I will just have to have C-dan order rebuild kit and try it my self or have it rebuilt at West TX Off Road.
I will just have to have C-dan order rebuild kit and try it my self or have it rebuilt at West TX Off Road.
I wouldn't touch one for what they charge. This is a case where it pays to let an experienced person do the job.
