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Air rail fitting ( closing off)

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by Guest, Feb 18, 2003.

  1. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Anyone have any opinion on how to block off the air rail fittings on the head of a 2F? Just got the beast and the PO took out all of the smog stuff and just crimped and brazed shut the tubing that comes out of the head and goes to the air rail. Looks kind of crappy. Would like to remove the fittings and replace them with bolts ( or something). Any chance I will damage anything ( other than the things I normally break when I "fix" something)?

    Appreciate it.

    D. Kane
     
  2. Trevor

    Trevor

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    Use 1/4" NPT pipe plugs. Make sure they are made of brass (I think) and not steel. I got about two million of them from Grainger for a few bucks.
     
  3. PHAT MAX

    PHAT MAX

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    why brass? mine are steel adn they are fine....
     
  4. theferg

    theferg

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    Also, I would recommend that you find allen-head type 1/4 NPT plugs because tightening in those damn square-head ones just sucks (especially as you get to the rear of the engine bay). May not be so bad on a 40 because you can tilt the hood all the way back, but on a 60 it's damn hard to get to.
     
  5. Trevor

    Trevor

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    I think the threads in the head are not pipe threads (Although I could be wrong). If you force the steel pipe plug into the iron head, the threads in the head will yield before the threads on the plug. Using the softer brass plugs ensures that the threads in the head do not strip. Although if you're not planning on removing the plugs in the future, it probably wouldn't matter.
     
  6. Trevor

    Trevor

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    I agree with you. It took me a while to find some allen head pipe plugs. I ended up buying an entire box of them and only using six.