WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
I posted a question sometime back about adding additional circuits as I needed power for an elocker install and wanted to add some additional circuits later for lights and auxillary 12V outlets. There are the usual Painless and Blue Sea fuse holders and I think most people go directly back to the battery to install these. I didn't get around to buying anything and needed power for my elockers. I had already decided to go with a Bosch relay so I only needed ~20 Amps of unswitched power. I could have gone direct to the battery but I try to avoid that if I can. I then found an empty fuse holder postion in the main fuse holder under the hood. This is a great place to add a circuit or to add fuse protection in front of an auxillary circuit fuse block.
If you look at the fuse holder in your engine bay, you will see that there are two fuses shown at the far right and one is listed as "AM1, 60 A, Diesel". This position is unused. It is connected directly to the battery via the fusable link and, as the used position next to it is 80 Amps, I assume that you could put up to an 80 Amp fuse in this location. 80 Amps would be adequate for most auxillary fuse block installations.
To install a fuse there, you need to take the cover off the fuse box and then undo the three bolts that hold the fuse box to the body. I would disconnect the positive battery cable before proceeding further. With these bolts removed, you can turn the fuse box over and remove the bottom (4 built-in clips, 2 on each side). Be careful removing the bottom clips as they can be a bit fragile. It takes some doing but the two fuse positions (unused one and the 80 amp one) will slide out the bottom as an assembly. This was a bit difficult and took me quite some time to figure out. Actually I never did figure it out but after a couple of minutes one of my mechanic friends technicians knew just where to push with a small screwdriver and the assembly slid out the bottom. The clip is on the other side of the 80 amp fuse. If you wiggle things around while observing what moves top and bottom, you should be able to figure it out. Apologies but I didn't think to take photos while it was all apart.
You can now install one of these bladed fuses and install a cable on the side opposite the wire going to the battery. The connection point is on each side of the blades of these fuses. Apologies that I don't have photos of the fuses out. I've never seen this type of fuse before but it's basically a fuse with blades ~1" long on each side with threaded holes at the bottom of the blades for connecting the wires.
As you can see, I installed a 30 Amp fuse (circled in photo) which feeds the Bosch relay which provides power to my new front and rear elockers. My wire is sized for 30 but I only needed 15 or 20. Unfortunately, 30 Amps was the smallest fuse of this type that I could find.
All of the other circuits that I want to add will need unswitched power so I plan on changing the fuse out for something larger to feed a Blue Sea fuse panel. I will then reconnect the elocker power out of that fuse panel.
It would have been very easy to install a single fuse holder and to connect directly to the battery but I thought this gave the install a more "factory" look.
If you look at the fuse holder in your engine bay, you will see that there are two fuses shown at the far right and one is listed as "AM1, 60 A, Diesel". This position is unused. It is connected directly to the battery via the fusable link and, as the used position next to it is 80 Amps, I assume that you could put up to an 80 Amp fuse in this location. 80 Amps would be adequate for most auxillary fuse block installations.
To install a fuse there, you need to take the cover off the fuse box and then undo the three bolts that hold the fuse box to the body. I would disconnect the positive battery cable before proceeding further. With these bolts removed, you can turn the fuse box over and remove the bottom (4 built-in clips, 2 on each side). Be careful removing the bottom clips as they can be a bit fragile. It takes some doing but the two fuse positions (unused one and the 80 amp one) will slide out the bottom as an assembly. This was a bit difficult and took me quite some time to figure out. Actually I never did figure it out but after a couple of minutes one of my mechanic friends technicians knew just where to push with a small screwdriver and the assembly slid out the bottom. The clip is on the other side of the 80 amp fuse. If you wiggle things around while observing what moves top and bottom, you should be able to figure it out. Apologies but I didn't think to take photos while it was all apart.
You can now install one of these bladed fuses and install a cable on the side opposite the wire going to the battery. The connection point is on each side of the blades of these fuses. Apologies that I don't have photos of the fuses out. I've never seen this type of fuse before but it's basically a fuse with blades ~1" long on each side with threaded holes at the bottom of the blades for connecting the wires.
As you can see, I installed a 30 Amp fuse (circled in photo) which feeds the Bosch relay which provides power to my new front and rear elockers. My wire is sized for 30 but I only needed 15 or 20. Unfortunately, 30 Amps was the smallest fuse of this type that I could find.
All of the other circuits that I want to add will need unswitched power so I plan on changing the fuse out for something larger to feed a Blue Sea fuse panel. I will then reconnect the elocker power out of that fuse panel.
It would have been very easy to install a single fuse holder and to connect directly to the battery but I thought this gave the install a more "factory" look.