Adding an additional circuit(s) to Gen1 4Runner (1 Viewer)

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WarDamnEagle

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I posted a question sometime back about adding additional circuits as I needed power for an elocker install and wanted to add some additional circuits later for lights and auxillary 12V outlets. There are the usual Painless and Blue Sea fuse holders and I think most people go directly back to the battery to install these. I didn't get around to buying anything and needed power for my elockers. I had already decided to go with a Bosch relay so I only needed ~20 Amps of unswitched power. I could have gone direct to the battery but I try to avoid that if I can. I then found an empty fuse holder postion in the main fuse holder under the hood. This is a great place to add a circuit or to add fuse protection in front of an auxillary circuit fuse block.

If you look at the fuse holder in your engine bay, you will see that there are two fuses shown at the far right and one is listed as "AM1, 60 A, Diesel". This position is unused. It is connected directly to the battery via the fusable link and, as the used position next to it is 80 Amps, I assume that you could put up to an 80 Amp fuse in this location. 80 Amps would be adequate for most auxillary fuse block installations.

To install a fuse there, you need to take the cover off the fuse box and then undo the three bolts that hold the fuse box to the body. I would disconnect the positive battery cable before proceeding further. With these bolts removed, you can turn the fuse box over and remove the bottom (4 built-in clips, 2 on each side). Be careful removing the bottom clips as they can be a bit fragile. It takes some doing but the two fuse positions (unused one and the 80 amp one) will slide out the bottom as an assembly. This was a bit difficult and took me quite some time to figure out. Actually I never did figure it out but after a couple of minutes one of my mechanic friends technicians knew just where to push with a small screwdriver and the assembly slid out the bottom. The clip is on the other side of the 80 amp fuse. If you wiggle things around while observing what moves top and bottom, you should be able to figure it out. Apologies but I didn't think to take photos while it was all apart. :doh:

You can now install one of these bladed fuses and install a cable on the side opposite the wire going to the battery. The connection point is on each side of the blades of these fuses. Apologies that I don't have photos of the fuses out. I've never seen this type of fuse before but it's basically a fuse with blades ~1" long on each side with threaded holes at the bottom of the blades for connecting the wires.

As you can see, I installed a 30 Amp fuse (circled in photo) which feeds the Bosch relay which provides power to my new front and rear elockers. My wire is sized for 30 but I only needed 15 or 20. Unfortunately, 30 Amps was the smallest fuse of this type that I could find.

All of the other circuits that I want to add will need unswitched power so I plan on changing the fuse out for something larger to feed a Blue Sea fuse panel. I will then reconnect the elocker power out of that fuse panel.

It would have been very easy to install a single fuse holder and to connect directly to the battery but I thought this gave the install a more "factory" look.
fuse panel 3 small.JPG
fuse panel 5 small.JPG
 
NICE!:clap: Very clean job, are you running a hipinion up front or is it a standard elocker? cant tell from the pics in your other post. what gears are you running in them?
 
NICE!:clap: Very clean job, are you running a hipinion up front or is it a standard elocker? cant tell from the pics in your other post. what gears are you running in them?

I wanted to run a hi-pinion but I didn't want to regear and they only come in 4.10 ratio. I bought 4.56 ratio. The TRD elockers (non hi-pinion) are available in 4.10, 4.30 and 4.56.
 
After writing my post this morning I got inspired and made a run down the beach to West Marine and NAPA. I bought a Blue Sea Systems 6 circuit ST Blade Fuse Block (with negative bus), 3' each of 6 gauge red and black wire, lugs, and an 80 amp FLM/PAL fuse to replace the 30 Amp that I installed last week. When I take the fuse box back apart (I really dread doing that!), I will snap a couple of photos and post.
 
OK. Got everything installed. Actually installing the 80 Amp fuse wasn't as difficult this time. I took some photos while everything was apart. I really like the Blue Sea fuse holder. It's much better in your hands than in the photos.

A couple of corrections from my first post. You don't have to remove the bottom of the main engine fuse holder to remove the two fuse slots that we're dealing with here. Also, the fuses don't have "threaded holes at the bottom of the blades". Actually they are simply slotted on the bottom and fit around (under) the wire connectors. It's all a bit clearer in the photos.

Anyway, I now have an 80 Amp fuse in the OEM fuse holder feeding a 6 position Blue Sea fuse holder. For now it's only feeding, via a 20 Amp fuse, the TRD elockers but I have imminent plans for the other 5 slots.
fuse panel 6 small.JPG
Fuse panel disassembled 1 small.JPG
Fuses small.jpg
 

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