Acid Dip versus Media Blast for resto? (1 Viewer)

[Gumby]

I'm debating this on how to do my 55 project (loaded on the shipping trailer today!)

Redi-strip will strip the body and then dip in an ecoat. No unreached places. I haven't got a quote yet. The Hot rod boards are pretty universal in not seeing paint problems later if done by a professional.

I thought about soda blasting because of the easy clean up, but I since heard of many lifting problems with the paint.

I had my 40 sand blasted. It doesn't matter how many times you blow out all the nooks and crannies, as soon as you hit it with a paint gun some crap will fly up and get in the paint. Other than that it was cheap, easy and didn't warp anything.

 

[cruiser88]

take it from a blaster.blast it.and you just have to clean it real good when your done.and not in the same place you blasted it anyway if your doing your frame go to a napa see if they got any black beauty and get the smaller grain so to speak.and go will need to borrow a sand pot,and a good compresser.the rest will be obvious.AND WEAR GOOD PROTECTION.dont ask how i know this

 

[cruiser88]

and if your doing body work itself you can use black beauty at lower psi.we do it often.why i push this stuff so much when done right it leaves a nice texture unlike any other

 

[nuclearlemon]

good question. i was considering having the 45 cab dipped because of the way the rear floor brace is...now i'm thinking no.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

great thanks for the post. I ended up deciding on sand blast too... Andre

 

[Hogan]

I've had mediablasting (plasic not sand) done before, it dosn't remove rust. You need to remove the rust also. There is a possiablity of micrscopic rust, that's why it is recommended to acid dip after mediablasting.

Than you'll want to have it epoxy primered right away.


Good Luck

MTCW

 

[webelk6]

great thanks for the post. I ended up deciding on sand blast too... Andre

aluminum oxide media is best. Any tiny particle residue left over will not rust and the painting process is fine.

Also primer and paint is = powdercoating and their are pros and cons for both. Check my build thread for the blasting and painting pics I did myself. Used 2 component primer and finish.

Powder coat is much harder hence chips easier. Plus touch up is an issue. Good Luck
Scott

 

[Sputnik40]

I stripped both my frame and tub down completely and had most everything sandblasted. Had some warpage on the rear quarters - but that wouldn't be an issue with a good media blast material.

Used marine epoxy on both, a two stage polyurethane on the frame (nice and glossy) and acryclic enamel on the sheetmetal. Over 9 years later, the frame is pristine (not counting breaks, rock rash, and grinding for various welding); but the tub is getting eaten alive from the inside out. This is partially due to having lived on the beach in South Florida, a few rare swamp wheeling episodes, and a whole lotta tweaking from hitting rocks in NC.

I used all PPG and POR 15 products, but could never get behind the tub seams and crannies. Not an issue if you've got a solid tub (mine was actually) and will keep out of the elements - but I've always wondered if it would have been better to have acid dipped, rinsed and then somehow dipped some form of sealant that would get in the seams....

 

[OLDNSLO]

01-02-07 09:33 PM
Gumby

I'm debating this on how to do my 55 project (loaded on the shipping trailer today!)

Redi-strip will strip the body and then dip in an ecoat. No unreached places. I haven't got a quote yet. The Hot rod boards are pretty universal in not seeing paint problems later if done by a professional.

I thought about soda blasting because of the easy clean up, but I since heard of many lifting problems with the paint.

I had my 40 sand blasted. It doesn't matter how many times you blow out all the nooks and crannies, as soon as you hit it with a paint gun some crap will fly up and get in the paint. Other than that it was cheap, easy and didn't warp anything.

I just had them dip my bench seat frames...EXCELLENT JOB....Good price too!!!

 

[Gumby]

Rough quote from a portable blaster guy. He'll blast the inside and out of my 55 and the outside of the shop 66 F-100 for $850. That would be blasting with Kieserite to avoid warping panels and would blast the rusted areas with silicate or coal.

That's about twice what I paid to have my 40 tub done 8 years ago.

Ready strip will dip just the body of the 55 for $2800. Doors and fenders are about $125 each, hood for $225. Call it another $1000 with the back door too. They'll blast the body only for $1400. They do not e-coat.

4-6 week turn around at Redi-Strip. Doesn't matter. For $4000 I could think of a lot of different ways to get it done.


edit - a Hot Rod guy was in the shop yesterday and turned me on to a guy in WI that will dip the whole shebang for ~$800.

That's getting closer.

 

[MSGGrunt]

The ultimate would be a hot dipped galvanized frame with an aluminium body (FJ40/45). Those parts that are not aluminium would be media blasted. The entire body would then be covered in your favorite coating (LineX, SpeedLiner, Rhino, etc) in my case the body would be black with a white top. To add a bit of color, door hinges, windshield frame hinges, etc can be powdercoated a contrasting color. This will be my plan for my FJ45 build.