Yeah, I was hoping that if I listed the obvious part numbers that someone would chime in with the rest. I looked on www.toyodiy.com but couldn't find the o-rings for either the expansion valve or the receiver & dryer assembly.
A/C system - how to remove the cooling unit, evaporator, expansion valve (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter alia176
- Start date
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Coolstream
Coolstream Auto Air Conditioning Parts
I can't help with OE #'s, but I can give you the Santech #'s. For the drier, you want MT0005 (x2) and for the expansion block, MT2193 is a set of four o-rings. Autozone carries Santech or if you're not in a huge hurry, I can mail them out to you.
many thanks great job will make my job much better to do again thanks heeps regards david.
Thank you Ali
A very special "thank you" to everyone on this forum who is kind enough to take the time and help others with their expertise.
I would especially like to thank Ali (Alia176) for his July 2009 post on removing the evaporator and all it's little threaded metal friends.
I followed his step by step instructions and photos and the job was much easier than I expected with no unpleasant surprises.
Cutting the foam with a razor blade before opening the cooling box was brillant, and advising to remove the passanger seat for more room worked out perfectly. You sir are truely a GWKS!
A very special "thank you" to everyone on this forum who is kind enough to take the time and help others with their expertise.
I would especially like to thank Ali (Alia176) for his July 2009 post on removing the evaporator and all it's little threaded metal friends.
I followed his step by step instructions and photos and the job was much easier than I expected with no unpleasant surprises.
Cutting the foam with a razor blade before opening the cooling box was brillant, and advising to remove the passanger seat for more room worked out perfectly. You sir are truely a GWKS!
Just wanted to post up my results thus far. I replaced my Evaporator, Expansion Valve, Receiver Dryer and all associated o-rings today. The job was straight-forward; however, once in there, I realized all of these bits had been replaced before. And someone greener than I completed the job.
One of the nuts was missing that held the cooling unit in place, as well as one screw. This no doubt contributed to a vibration/buzz in the passenger side of the dash. Many of the other fasteners were mangled.
What's more, the old, leaking evaporator was smaller than OEM, the old Receiver/Dryer was smaller than OEM, and the Expansion Valve had "China" stamped on it (to each their own; I prefer OEM first, then made in Japan, then made in USA). I'm not sure how many miles/years were on this set up as I've had my cruiser not quite two years, and these parts have been on it the whole time.
Top Tip: If your Receiver/Dryer looks like its been on for a while and has spent time in water (or worse, salt), let the screws holding in the a/c lines soak in penetrating oil. I did so for about 10 minutes but still wound up snapping one of the heads off. Eventually I got it out. =)
Now, hopefully it'll hold a charge when I take it to the shop Friday!
P.S. - Many thanks to Ali for this thread and even helping me via PM!
One of the nuts was missing that held the cooling unit in place, as well as one screw. This no doubt contributed to a vibration/buzz in the passenger side of the dash. Many of the other fasteners were mangled.
What's more, the old, leaking evaporator was smaller than OEM, the old Receiver/Dryer was smaller than OEM, and the Expansion Valve had "China" stamped on it (to each their own; I prefer OEM first, then made in Japan, then made in USA). I'm not sure how many miles/years were on this set up as I've had my cruiser not quite two years, and these parts have been on it the whole time.
Top Tip: If your Receiver/Dryer looks like its been on for a while and has spent time in water (or worse, salt), let the screws holding in the a/c lines soak in penetrating oil. I did so for about 10 minutes but still wound up snapping one of the heads off. Eventually I got it out. =)
Now, hopefully it'll hold a charge when I take it to the shop Friday!
P.S. - Many thanks to Ali for this thread and even helping me via PM!
Coolstream
Coolstream Auto Air Conditioning Parts
One of the biggest problems we see is poor fit of aftermarket evaporators. If they don't fit in the case correctly then you end up with either air bypassing the core or having to use a bunch of foam to seal it, which means less surface area for heat transfer. There's a reason they're lots cheaper than OE. Glad to hear you got it together with the right stuff. And thanks to Alia176 for this very helpful thread!
One of the biggest problems we see is poor fit of aftermarket evaporators. If they don't fit in the case correctly then you end up with either air bypassing the core or having to use a bunch of foam to seal it, which means less surface area for heat transfer. There's a reason they're lots cheaper than OE. Glad to hear you got it together with the right stuff. And thanks to Alia176 for this very helpful thread!
And thanks to you, Coolstream, for a great deal on OEM parts, as well as top notch service!
Coolstream
Coolstream Auto Air Conditioning Parts
Think it's time for a new one? The one side looks ok, the other, not so much. That's oil soaked residue coating the whole side.
Wow - and I thought MINE was bad! I think oil leaks and coats the fins which in turn collects all the crap coming in the fresh air intake. I bet this one didn't smell so good (mine was definitely pretty stinky!) Another bonus of replacing this core is that your air will likely smell much better.
Coolstream
Coolstream Auto Air Conditioning Parts
Exactly!
Wow, lots of AC knowledge on this thread.
I, unfortunately, don't have AC. It didn't work when I bought the rig and I've removed everything under the hood as part of my quest for a simpler-lighter wheeling rig.
I'm thinking about removing the evaporator as well.
Couple of questions:
1) Besides closing the hole into the engine bay, can the evaporator be removed and still have normal air/heater flow?
2) Is there anything else under the dash AC related that can be removed?
Thanks,
Dave
I, unfortunately, don't have AC. It didn't work when I bought the rig and I've removed everything under the hood as part of my quest for a simpler-lighter wheeling rig.
I'm thinking about removing the evaporator as well.
Couple of questions:
1) Besides closing the hole into the engine bay, can the evaporator be removed and still have normal air/heater flow?
2) Is there anything else under the dash AC related that can be removed?
Thanks,
Dave
Well I did mine ... followed the procedure removing evaporator etc but the air is still hot.
I charged until the pressures were okay .. 25 to 30 on the low side and 200-2220 on the high side. But the cooling is not good. Compressor is always on. vent temp is about 60F. dryer & expansion valve and all O-rings are new (original Toyota parts ).
when I evacuated the system, the vacuum held steady for 2 days + .. which is when I started the charging. site glass is now showing bubbles.
not sure why. Now I did not force nitrogen in to see if there is a leak. I assumed if I can hold 28-29 inches of vacuum for 2 days , then I cannot have a leak. After reading more on the AC, it appears I should, always use a micron gauge to check the vacuum level which I did not.
any thoughts?
water valve cable is disconnected and I have the lever pushed to shut flow completely.
Also I have no air in the back at all . why ??
I did spray the evaporator with foam and rinsed it off ( after covering the 2 pipe holes with plastic bag). I know the fsm says to never rinse them!
Thanks
zakir
I charged until the pressures were okay .. 25 to 30 on the low side and 200-2220 on the high side. But the cooling is not good. Compressor is always on. vent temp is about 60F. dryer & expansion valve and all O-rings are new (original Toyota parts ).
when I evacuated the system, the vacuum held steady for 2 days + .. which is when I started the charging. site glass is now showing bubbles.
not sure why. Now I did not force nitrogen in to see if there is a leak. I assumed if I can hold 28-29 inches of vacuum for 2 days , then I cannot have a leak. After reading more on the AC, it appears I should, always use a micron gauge to check the vacuum level which I did not.
any thoughts?
water valve cable is disconnected and I have the lever pushed to shut flow completely.
Also I have no air in the back at all . why ??
I did spray the evaporator with foam and rinsed it off ( after covering the 2 pipe holes with plastic bag). I know the fsm says to never rinse them!
Thanks
zakir
Just for future folks looking at doing this.
As I understand it, the O-rings are these:
Imperial 8133 O-ring Ac Metric Toyota Liquid Line #5
and the best oil for lubricating the evaporator and drier and O-rings: PAG DEC(double end capped) 46 oil
And the general amount of oil to add to new components - not the FSM just some general guidelines I found :
Evaporator (2oz) Filter Drier (1oz)
[FONT="]PLEASE correct this if you know better - before I finish sealing the system up and getting it evaced and charged.
[/FONT]
As I understand it, the O-rings are these:
Imperial 8133 O-ring Ac Metric Toyota Liquid Line #5
and the best oil for lubricating the evaporator and drier and O-rings: PAG DEC(double end capped) 46 oil
And the general amount of oil to add to new components - not the FSM just some general guidelines I found :
Evaporator (2oz) Filter Drier (1oz)
[FONT="]PLEASE correct this if you know better - before I finish sealing the system up and getting it evaced and charged.
[/FONT]
Coolstream
Coolstream Auto Air Conditioning Parts
I wouldn't use PAG oil on the O-rings, it makes them sticky. If you use mineral oil or silicone O-ring lube, it makes them slippery, so less chance of them tearing during installation.
Just used this thread and it was great. I am at the stage weren't is all reassembled and I have a question.
It said that if you replace the drier to add 10 cc of oil. I assume this is to replace the oil that was in the old one. My question is when I cracked the firewall fitting to release the pressure was there any oil that blew out with the freon? I noticed a little on the firewall but is this enough to hurt or do I need to add more oil? Also do you just put the oil in the lines?
It said that if you replace the drier to add 10 cc of oil. I assume this is to replace the oil that was in the old one. My question is when I cracked the firewall fitting to release the pressure was there any oil that blew out with the freon? I noticed a little on the firewall but is this enough to hurt or do I need to add more oil? Also do you just put the oil in the lines?
I am turning my 92 tacoma into a buggy with a full exo-skeleton and am wanting to get rid of the whole a/c system for more room under the hood and modification of the front grill. Does anybody know of any problems associated with doing this or know of anybody who has done this?
